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Firstly, there should be a way for the water to runoff OR drain. So, you could either raise the brick so that it is slightly above the cement block OR remove some brick where the water collects and install a catch basin that carries the water away from the patio (at a pitch/angle away from patio of course).


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If water collects there because of a roof with out a gutter, it would be wise to add a French drain. If you did go that route, the saturation of water in that area would never make iot to the wall to the degree that you may think. The French drains that I built where graded to daylight, lined with a continuous piece of heavy gage plastic, so any water ...


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If the AAV is threaded, then you need to get a coupler that is threaded on one side and smooth on the other. You need to prime and glue the push-fit connector. The threaded connection does not get primed/glued.


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Simply put, moist air from anything can build up condensate. If this moist air or vented furnace vapor is exposed to freezing temperatures, eventually it will form a build up. The temperature inside has to be greater than freezing air around it, or it will build up a frosty ice cube. Pay close attention to insulating heat exchange if the furnace is not ...


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Not a licensed plumber by any means but, what if he was to replace that black sideways abomination with a 4-way connector, similar to what's under it, but add a "pop valve" that would allow air into the line? Wouldn't that give him some better flow under a heavy load. Kind of bugs me that we don't see a vent pipe anywhere near that main stack.


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Yes, as @TomG says, take the standpipe up - but I'll modify 18" to "as far as the ceiling or the 8 foot limit allows", that's the least expensive first approach, and if it solves it, you are done. Get it right up inbetween the floor joists. If a plumber was involved in the black Tee on the white PVC pipe at the top of the picture, the licensing board should ...



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