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Plumbing in concrete slabs pretty much requires ripping the floor open to make any changes to it. I suppose if you chose a new toilet with a LARGE base and were very careful you MIGHT be able to keep all the floor damage under it, but that's making assumptions that you'll be able to rework cast iron pipes (not the most cooperative things) through a fairly ...


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Typically these aren't chains at all, but a rod in two pieces. See link provided by Getterdun. If you can grab that lower piece, you can pull it up and completely remove the stopper, by removing the overflow cover. I've done this on several tubs over the years, and simply used a rubber stopper in the tub when needed. Newer tubs typically don't use this ...


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It's clogged. Hire a plumber to snake it, or buy a snake and do it yourself. A simple drill mounted snake (about $10-$15) should do it. If you've never done it before watch some youtube videos explaining how first. It's probably full of hair. Once you clear it make a point of periodically (every 6 months or so) taking off the drain cover in the shower and ...


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An Approved location that I'm aware of is like a Floor Drain. Though Ariel is Correct, you would need an Air Gap. So the pipe would have a 1" min Gap to the Drain so that any back flow of water could not touch the exit pipe. The Main issue here is keeping the sewer gases in the system and not outside. This is what the p-Trap is for. Its a water barrier to ...


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Yes, you can cut concrete. You could hire someone with a concrete saw to do the work, or you can buy a masonry blade for a standard circular saw. Make sure you wear goggles and a mask to keep concrete dust and chips out of your eyes and lungs. It is noisy (and slow) so please wear ear plugs also. You will have to make sure the trench slopes towards the ...


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You probably won't be able to replace just half of that trap as different manufacturers use different threaded connections at the union. Assuming the "lock ring" you referred to is the union nut (the large nut connecting the two halves of the trap), hand tight is not enough so tightening it carefully with a tool was appropriate. Unfortunately it is common ...


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A slow-draining shower is often caused by hair caught on the crossbar where the screw that holds the strainer attaches. Unscrew the screw in the middle of the strainer and lift out the strainer and the screw. If there's a bunch of hair there, pull it out. (Ewww...).


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Clearly the restriction is left of the sink in your diagram. One more question you could consider is whether this is an installation deficiency (problem has always existed) or whether the drain was working properly at one time and the situation has become worse. I would suggest using a video inspection camera to be certain about the location of the ...



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