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1

The quick fix is to install a diagonal cable/turnbuckle assembly from the swinging lower corner (where the vertical lock stile meets the lower cross-rail) up to the opposite corner (where the hinge stile meets the top cross-rail) and tighten the turnbuckle until the door is more square. The other fix it to rebuild the door and tighten, glue up and clamp all ...


0

As to whether it is geometrically feasible, I have no idea. The question you should be asking is whether it is structurally feasible. I doubt there is any conceivable way to get a header that turns 120° and would provide enough support in the corner without a post there. I'm assuming that the dashed line is an existing wall. I would also evaluate whether ...


0

Contacting a manufacturer's representative is the only way to really know what it will take to make it happen. Typically they are happy to discuss projects because it allows them to qualify sales leads.


3

Aluminum is heat conductive and sweats in the wintertime as moist, warm inside air hits it. Despite drainage built into the frame, the water also condenses on the outside of the frames and can rot out the wood that forms the rough opening. Foam sealant will help eliminate the air spaces that allow this to happen but doesn't stop any exposed surface from ...


0

Door locks are just a deterrent. If someone wants into your house they will find a way. A bump key is one way, but when they bump your lock, it ruins the cylinder. So they're not opening it the nice way with a spare. They're bumping the pins so they don't need the original keys. Good luck! Maybe try re-keying your locks.


0

Leave the door open to reduce humidity, better yet: knock out the hinge pins, pull the door and lay the door flat on some sawhorses and give it a good glossy paint job paying special attention to the top and bottom edges.


1

I used an install jig with a hole saw to open up the hole for the bolt on my metal security door. It is a little tricky but putting the hole saw in the jig for the handle/ lockset and securing with duct tape to keep it from vibrating out worked pretty well at keeping the jig lined up while the hole saw bit into the steel. This is always done knowing you ...


1

A piece of tape over the latch hole, or the latch itself would prevent the latch from catching. You could also remove the latch from the door, and replace it when you move out.


4

Sounds more like a case for a doorstop -- either wedge style, or flip-down, or (what's becoming my personal favorite) magnetic -- to hold the door open rather than arguing with the latch. And that would leave you with the option of closing the door if you ever have houseguests or other reasons to do so.


3

When I was growing up, we just stuffed whatever we could find (paper, plastic, etc) into the latch hole to fill it up. That would probably work for you. I didn't come up with the stuff to keep the door from latching, and I didn't make it better. <-- Lame 3M joke.


0

We have just gotten an indoor kitten and already have an indoor/outdoor dog. The current "doggy door" is inside a cabinet whose doors have been removed. If the product described above was produced, it would answer our problems. The other idea we've had is to create an electronic field around the opening of the cabinet which allows the dog entrance but the ...


0

Key-in-Knob sets are common because they're cheap and easy to throw into a door, and they save the contractors the hassle of installing a deadbolt. That does not mean they're mandatory. Even where self-locking doors are needed, there are multiple ways to achieve that, many of which are more secure than the typical KIK set. The downside of not having the ...


2

Some jurisdictions, such as New York City, require self-closing, self-locking doors to the entry of multiple family dwellings (,8 or more units), but do not seem to require them on smaller housing units (such as one or two family homes) or on the individual apartments within a larger unit. Even when locks are required, they do not need to be in the knob of ...


0

Since you say the doors only stick in the winter, that would lean more towards the humidity/temp changes you mention. As for the cracks, could be part of that, could be from just natural settling of the home over time. As to things to do about it, I'd just point you to an easily found article on the net where someone else has already gone through the ...


0

Several ways to approach the problem come to mind: Discourage noise makers: make changes to the environment so the noise makers want to leave: make the hallway temperature uncomfortable, install atrocious art, provide a repellent scent, disagreeable noises, threatening animals, and/or arrange scary/dangerous passers-by. Decrease the sound reaching your ...


1

Plans for a screen door were published in the August 2010 issue of Woodworker's Journal, if that helps at all. Try libraries and/or see if you can find someone who'd lend you their copy.


0

Is this a split jamb door with the casing already attached? If so, then if the casing hides the gap with room left on the outer edge of the casing to fasten, the door will work fine for the rough opening. The most important part of the installation (other than plumb & level) is that you cut or otherwise use snug-fitting shims frequently -at least, one ...


0

I assume you have a two piece split jamb pre-hung door. It's expected that these will be smaller than the rough opening, you need room to make the door plumb and level. Here's the install steps off the top of my head and my own personal best practice: Check your width of the rough opening to ensure the trim will cover any gaps left, this is the main ...


0

I am replacing a door with a pre - hung door including the jam. A pre-hung door is a door that includes the frame with the hinges, lock and strike-plate fitted. A blank door is one where you have to fit the hinges, cut a rebate for the lock/catch and drill a hole for the handles, fit a frame to the wall if there is no existing frame and fit the door to ...


0

The door or frame could be warped, which means replacing or rebuilding one of them. It's also possible that the door is simply poorly installed, in which case moving the hinges around would solve it.


0

You can use any of the options listed above but they are not strictly speaking necessary. French doors have whats called an astragal (the strip on the passive door that overlaps the swing door) that unifies the two doors when closed. In addition the passive side will have a flush bolt top and bottom that drives a tab into the header and threshold. You can ...


1

A door/knob that is set properly will make very little noise during normal operation. The noise caused by the door hitting the jamb is almost certainly a function of misalignment (i.e. the door is striking the jamb stop at only one location). When properly hung the tight tolerances will trap air as the door closes and create a natural cushioning effect. ...


2

If you just want the bathroom door held closed, remove the latch mechanism totally, install a dummy knob and use a magnetic closure to hold the door in place. You do not even need the magnet to touch the matched plate on the stronger ones. If you are using a bit of foam or a vinyl bumper on the door itself, adjust the magnet back from the plate until it is ...


0

Painting the doors probably would've helped. Moisture penetrated through the unpainted top of the door and bottom.


1

I had two doors that would stick, a hand plane was much more effective then sanding. If you do not have one buy an Empire Pocket plane, they are around 10 dollars and just as effective.


0

Your doors will fluctuate and if your contractor made them snug then during the summer they will need to be "adjusted". Just installed two doors in my basement snug this past winter knowing they would stick. They are currently sticking - barely close. So I will pull them off hinges and hit them with a belt sander on the non-hinge side.


2

I would bet the doors were dryer than they are now. Most basements are more humid than the rest of a typical home, especially in the summer. In the winter they will shrink again, but it will be needed to trim a little here and there to get them to work in the summer.



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