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2

When I had cats, I used a doorway gate that they sell to keep small children away from steps or out of a room. The cat goes right through it but the dog can't. source


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We just moved into a Mission Viejo 1987 ranch style home. It has lots of wood with nylon rollers on closets and cabinet doors etc. I have found that ArmorAll Original is the best lubricant for the nylon rollers and parts. Inexpensive, easy to apply, cleans and lubricates. It seems to not collect any debris afterwards.


2

You can use cat tunnels that are elevated above where the dog is able to reach. Google has several images of cat tunnels at ceiling height, it is important to check for wires before installing elevated access ways, but cutting and patching holes in drywall is much easier then cutting and patching holes in doors. Also the dog will not try to dig their way ...


2

I'm going to try for an outside-the-box solution: How about a cat flap or cat passage _away from the door and above the dog's easy line of sight -- possibly from a shelf the cat can climb or jump to, with similar access on the other side of the wall? I think that would be something the cat could quickly learn to use but that simply wouldn't be an idea the ...


5

It may seem too simple to work, but you just need to cut your own tailor-made cat door. Basically, a cat can get through any opening it can fit its head through. This usually works against us cat owners, since the beasties have a mind of their own and like to explore. This time, it may work in our favor. So: Measure cat head (breadth), add 1/4 inch to ...


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You might consider a door guard Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


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A long thin wedge on the floor, or a longer than average "door chain" set up so you can reach in and release it, the cat can get in, but the dog can't get in. This might just be a matter of changing how the chain catch is oriented so it can be opened by reaching through the door, or it may require lengthening the chain.


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For an "off the shelf" solution, just use a door closer that has a "keep open" or "hold open" function. It will close the door, unless it's fully opened to the point of engaging the "keep open" function (or in some cases a knob on the close arm needs to be engaged to "keep open".) It will not do any "open if here, close if there" games. It might be ...


-1

You can try control noise better at its source. If that defeats the purpose you can try controlling it along its path by directing it better, reflecting it or flanking it and absorbing it. Or at the receiving end of sound you could control it with earplugs.


1

Usually this stuff is metal, known as "interlocking weatherstrip", but since that's not a great search term, it's often found in the same vicinity as "spring bronze weatherstripping". Check kilianhardware.com, under the springbronze tab.


2

Standard EMT tool for tempered glass car windows (after taping - packing tape preferred over duct tape) is an automatic center punch. A hammer and nail will work the same, it's mostly being a one-handed tool that's easy to carry that makes the ACP the preferred tool among EMTs. If you're "smashing the whatever" out of it, you're doing it wrong. It just ...


2

It seems that taping it and enclosing with cardboard were good precautionary safety measures. It may be tempered glass, if so it will be more difficult to break and will shatter into a thousand small pieces (like auto glass). Put a tarp under your work area, wear a heavy long-sleeved jacket, wear safety glasses, and smash the s*%t out of it.


2

When a key is stuck in a pin-tumbler lock, what that usually means is that one of the pins has dropped down into the key's cuts but isn't lifting back out of the way so the key can be withdrawn. There are several possible causes. One is that the key was cut badly and doesn't have enough of a slope to lift the pin as it is pulled back. Uncommon, though ...


0

There's a particular type of lock pick called a key extractor that is designed specifically for this purpose. http://www.lock-picking.org/lock-picks.html All locksmiths have one. If you know someone who likes picking locks, you can ask them if they have one or if they'd like to try using their diamond or hook shaped pick. Or you can try yourself. Lock ...


0

You want gel stripper. The gel will allow you to apply the stripper to the inverted and vertical surfaces (it will still drip, put something down on the floor). Use several coats of stripper with a scraper until the wood starts to lighten a bit. At that point you can either be happy and/or re-stain the wood. If you want to get it back to the base wood ...


1

That wire wheel might help if there are nooks and crannys, like fine detail. But I am afraid what you will need is a lot of elbow grease and sandpaper. Starting with coarse and working down to fine, using steel wool and/or wire bushes for the detail work. Good quality chemical strippers are helpful if you are able to cope with the mess/smell/health hazards. ...


2

If it went in it will come out. Squirt some graphite lube in there and pull the key, hard, with pliers. If the lock breaks... you needed a new one anyway.


2

As long as it is a solid wood door and not a veneer. Drill the proper sized pilot holes too, so the door rail does not split. The only thing you may want to be concerned about the screws are is the one on each roller that will go into the end grain of the stile. If it was a longer screw, it would be good insurance. End grain does not hold a screw as well as ...


0

Usually there is a metal stop (like an angle bracket) inside the top track area that stops each door at the center. If you cut away the top corner of the door you could use wood, metal is thin enough that it's often not bothered with, or could be done (if looking for perfect closure) but is a much smaller cut. You could also block the track to stop the ...


1

That's a single demountable hinge. I've got double demountables on my kitchen cabinets. I recently removed and painted the doors and had to adjust them slightly when I put them back on. In my case, it was simply a matter of adjusting how deeply the hinges were slid into the door and/or frame before tightening the screws since no screws actually screw ...


1

No answer, but some ideas. Make sure the hinge is properly installed. It sounds like it was installed in the wrong orientation or the wrong type of hinge. Some hinges are design to be installed on lift up type cabinet doors. The spring action helps make the door feel less heavy and not slam shut. If you have other ones that work properly, check it against ...



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