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Your front door probably currently opens inward. If you try to just flip the door such that you so not have to change around the hardware on the door (old outside becomes inside and old inside becomes outside) then the door would be oriented to as to open outwards. The door's frame is likely not at all compatible with this. If the hardware on the door can ...


3

Barrel Hinge: But note that there's nothing intrinsically wrong with fitting a completely different type of hinge. You obviously need hinges explicitly intended for outdoor use. Not like these


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It may be a rat tail hinge. (Image Source) It doesn't totally look exactly like it, but might be some sort of style of it.


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Hollow panel doors like the one in your picture can be purchased at your local home improvement store for relatively cheap, probably in the range of $30-50. So the easiest thing to do is not fix them and just replace them. If you are set on repairing it, you should sand down the damage, fill it with wood putty, sand again, the prime and paint (the entire ...


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Any ideas on how to pass a cable through a doorway? Don't. Drill a hole through the wall nearby and fit 8P8C (RJ45) outlets connected by solid (not stranded) UTP cable. An SDS drill will make this easier. If necessary, chase channels up the wall (or down to trunking inside or alongside a baseboard/skirting) using tools designed for that job. You can ...


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Add 2 inches to the door width to get your RO (rough opening) width. Add 2 inches to your height, to allow for a gap at the floor. (You probably won't need all of it, but sometimes level on the floor doesn't cooperate.) If you absolutely know that the wall isn't load-bearing, then technically, you don't need a header. However, it's not hard to build a ...


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What you are looking for, then, is a security door. These are essentially storm doors with metal bars that make entry more difficult. They come in a variety of styles and prices. If you need the "storm" protection as well, you can get some that include glass or plastic, or you can mount a plastic sheet to the inside. It will look better than a solid ...


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Turn the knob all the way and hold it there, insert a small stiff object into the collar hole to depress the knob retention tab while pulling outward on the knob. It will slide off into your hand.


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A heavy or multi-layered or heavy multi-layered curtain would attenuate sound as well as many doors, and seems about right for this "wall" as described. Sandwich a blanket (or more than one) between more decorative surface layers.


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Use rigid foam. You can cut it with a circular saw, or with a utility knife. Buy a 2 inch sheet that's R13, you an always double it up to get R26. Measure the size you need and cut with a circular saw, it cuts like butter. Make 2 and then attach to each other and the door with silicone. You will still possibly have issues with air leakage around the door, ...


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One recommendation is to use rigid foam insulation attached with caulking, liquid nails, or silicone.


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Metal and/or fully adhered rubber flashing and drip edge on top of door trim placed under siding. Oil based finish to door and frame. Seal bottom and side edges of door with oil based finish.


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A rigid foam (or ductboard) box in the attic which sits over (is larger than) the door opening. When you open the door, the box is still there. When you enter the attic you lift the box out of the way. When you are done in the attic, you lift the box back into position over the door, then close the door.


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For a temporary, low-cost, low-hassle solution, you could just put a towel down in front of the door to block the draft. That's what we always did in my house as a kid.



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