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1

First, Minwax wiping stains are inferior...so is there conditioner...in fact the only thing they do well is marketing. Step up to Sherwin Williams BAC or Old Masters and you'll never look back. Having said that, in this case you need a gel stain. Second, conditioner although indispensable when working with soft woods, will only get you so far. With a quality ...


0

Since you can rarely get rid of all rust without sanding completely through the metal, due to pitting, you should remove as much as possible, and the apply a rust fixer.


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I paint all metal doors with automotive primer (helps with rust and binds harder) and automotive spray paint. Need to spray a good distance away and layer it on lightly but if you take your time it can look almost perfect. Bonus points for following it up with a clear coat a few days later.


3

Priming and Painting Galvanized Metal, condensed from KILZ.com, other manufacturers also make specific paints and primers for galvanized metal. The galvanizing process, which is designed to prevent rust, leaves an oily film that can prevent coating adhesion. The zinc in galvanized metal can produce a milky “white rust” (which is common when it has ...


2

Wirebrush the rust to remove it. Apply a primer designed to adhere to bare metal. (I'm fond of those which react chemically with rust to help finish the job of preparing the surface, but those are only available in dark colors as far as I know.) Then apply a paint compatible with that primer -- not all paints layer happily on top of each other; generally you ...


0

Judging by the picture and your description I'd say those are indeed the adjustment screws that raise and lower the rail of threshold (the part that makes the seal with the bottom of the door). If the door is installed normally removing these will not help you remove the threshold. It will be attached to the jamb via screws that run through the jamb into the ...


1

It is an advantage that your door actually comes with the door pre-drilled. In the cases where the door is not pre-drilled then it is necessary to do the whole schmoo of drilling these holes in the proper locations. Included with that is the job of fitting the lockset edge plates into the properly crafted depression so that the plate is flush or ever so ...


1

Do you have a deadbolt? Try putting it in. Although the bolt is rectangular, it is slightly smaller than the one inch hole so it should fit just fine. The facing which guides the bolt screws into the edge of the door to hold it stable. It is possible some chiseling will be needed to make the bolt's facing flush with the door.


0

When we moved into this house, the sliding door from our bedroom to the deck-over-flat-roof-with-no-railing was fastened shut with a single very long (4" maybe?) screw. The house inspector said that was so that it was our responsibility if we unscrewed it and started using the door. If you're not worried about legal liability, just want to stop people using ...


0

A quick and easy way to disable a door is to remove the door handle. Most doors have at least a handle operated latch that requires the handle to be turned before the door can be opened. If necessary you can make a blanking plate to cover the place where the handle fitted. This could be a piece of wood (or metal or plastic) cut to the right shape, with ...


6

A common way to handle this, is to build a railing in front of the door. You'll see houses built where a deck was optional, that have a railing built in front of the sliding door. Something like this... The best way to find out what is acceptable, is to contact the people who will be determining if your solution is acceptable.


0

I would put some flashing there. I was just doing some work on my back door and while it leads directly to the house not the garage. There was some flashing that went under the siding and over the trim. (For the horizontal piece) You're right OSB does soak up water pretty well. Once wet it doesn't stay together very well either.


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Answering my own question, but I did eventually get the doors to behave themselves. The way I ended up doing it was this: The rollers that I got with the hardware kit and adjustable. They have one fixed screw hole and two more that are curved slots letting you not adjust the angle. I got the door in by removing the rollers from the door, placing the rollers ...


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I suggest scraping using stripper to minimize the fallout rather than adjusting the door, especially if it's in good alinement. Old doors like where they are. Safely remove lead paint, Department of Health, Paraphrased: Be a non pregnant adult. Tarp everything. Wear an approved respirator. Clean up carefully. Do not eat, drink or smoke before you throw ...


0

Tie a string/rope to the center of the door and the other end to the frame or wall close to hinge side. Make the string long enough to allow door to fully close (plus some slack). In the middle of the string, tie a weight (be creative/decorative). When the door is unlatched, the weight will pull and hold the door open.


3

In almost all cases its better to move or adjust the strike plate, the stop, or both rather than move the hinges. Here's a series of diagrams that demonstrate why (dimensions are exaggerated for effect) : This is an ideal door set up. The gap between the door and the stop is an even 1/32 to 1/16 all the way around. It is not supposed to be tight to the ...


2

Moving hinges are not an easy task. Moving the hinges 1/8 of a inch will require repairing the old screw holes first. To repair the old holes you will need to fill them with suitable filler that will hold the screws. My preference is to wood dowels and wood glue. With a thin layer of glue o the dowel, tap it in the old screw hole. Let cure (look on ...



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