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As long as it is a solid wood door and not a veneer. Drill the proper sized pilot holes too, so the door rail does not split. The only thing you may want to be concerned about the screws are is the one on each roller that will go into the end grain of the stile. If it was a longer screw, it would be good insurance. End grain does not hold a screw as well as ...


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Usually there is a metal stop (like an angle bracket) inside the top track area that stops each door at the center. If you cut away the top corner of the door you could use wood, metal is thin enough that it's often not bothered with, or could be done (if looking for perfect closure) but is a much smaller cut. You could also block the track to stop the ...


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That's a single demountable hinge. I've got double demountables on my kitchen cabinets. I recently removed and painted the doors and had to adjust them slightly when I put them back on. In my case, it was simply a matter of adjusting how deeply the hinges were slid into the door and/or frame before tightening the screws since no screws actually screw ...


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No answer, but some ideas. Make sure the hinge is properly installed. It sounds like it was installed in the wrong orientation or the wrong type of hinge. Some hinges are design to be installed on lift up type cabinet doors. The spring action helps make the door feel less heavy and not slam shut. If you have other ones that work properly, check it against ...


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For clarification, Is this an open door being slammed shut, or a door with clearance when latched that allows it to clatter against the door jamb? The first can be taken care of with a gas cylinder door closer to retard the closing of the door on the last final bit. The second can be taken care of by putting thin weatherstrip around the door to stop ...


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How about a small rubber doorstop that you can kick under the door edge? That'd wedge the door tight without worrying about a modification.


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Use a gate spring. Arrange it so that the door is spring loaded open and needs to be pulled shut and latched.


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Your idea about the 1X6 on either side is a good start. It would give you something to fasten to, in a simple fashion on both sides, although the fastening would be minimal. You may need to increase the number of nails in the jamb to keep it in place over the long haul. Same thing if you use screws. When the 1x6, for a 6" wall, or if it fits, 1X8 for an 8" ...


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Somewhat late to the party but a good solution I've just used goes as follows: Buy some reasonably thick dowel (say, 10mm) and cut a length for each existing screw hole. I'd suggest the length of the screw you are using (plus about 25% extra if your door is not solid wood). Sand one end back square - this is the end that will be exposed when the dowel is ...


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They don't actually look that bad (at least to me from that picture) - you should be able to just sand them down, re-stain if desired, and then polyurethane / seal them again.


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Paint pealing off is usually a sign that you have layered an oil based paint over a water based paint or primer. A good sign that this has happened is if it peels of in strips. Your paint may also have gone bad before you bought it, if it was not properly stored for instance, it may alternatively have been mixed with the wrong dyes (using an oil based dye ...



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