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1

You could try iron-on white melamine banding, usually used to finish the edges of particle board for cabinets or furniture. The banding usually comes in ¾" or ⅝" wide sizes, and it may be a challenge to find the banding in the width you need, but I know I've seen it in a few places.


3

I think if you use a couple coats of good primer and a finish coat of enamel paint, you should be fine. Just be sure to work it into the wood well. Two thin coats are always better than one thick coat. The cat door is gonna protect the cut edges quite a bit as well. Put a small bead of silicone caulk on the inside of the cat door bezel before you install it ...


1

hard to say without knowing more about the floor plan. Maybe they're in a longer section of floor. Maybe there are plumbing fixtures that required a shift in layout. Who knows? It doesn't much matter whether you use one header or three, but you'll want trimmer studs supporting it or them between each pair of doors. Otherwise you'd need to size the header ...


2

Assuming these doors are exactly the same size, you should switch the doors by unscrewing each door's hinges from its frame, and then reinstalling in the other frame. You will probably need to mark the outline of the hinges in their new positions and carefully countersink the outline with a sharp wood chisel. You will need to switch the strike plates as well,...


0

What happens when you try to use the correcy key? If it turns normally, the lock cylinder is fine and your kids are probably not culpable. Once unlocked, what happens when you turn the knob? If it starts to move but doesn't go all the way, this may just be wood expanding with humidity putting sideways pressure on the latch, and leaning on the door may ...


2

In security the principle of weakest link applies. It's not possible to tell if the surface mounting alone will be the point of failure in your setup. The material of the door, the frame, hinges and the part which is most often overlooked: how well is the frame mounted to the wall pay equal role in providing security. There is nothing inherently wrong in ...


1

From what little you have shown us, I'll fault it for inadequate attachment to door frame, and possibly to door. There are reasonably strong surface-mount ("rim") locksets. The Seagal-style vertical deadbolt design is something of a classical in that space; a non-junk lock, installed properly with hardened screws thru frame and into actual wall joists, can ...


0

I'd look at hinge stops, and use them in pairs (or even triples). They apply a large force to the hinge screws and the door skin, so using multiples distributes the load. For reference only. If your doors are very heavy, consider a closer as recommended by Ed Beal.


1

If by "unsafe" you meant that the catch can be overcome fairly easily with blunt force, then yes, this is unsafe. Nothing short of high-security hardware, properly installed, is "safe" in my book. If you're looking to keep out nuisance kids and lazy thieves, use that. If you're looking to defend against armed burglars or other human threats, don't trust it....


0

I would use a door closer that can hold open like this. A bit expensive but it may solve your problem without creating a trip hazard. Other than this a rubber wedge type stop would be useful, but it sounds like you want something better than a wedge.


3

Generally for interior doors the RO (Rough Opening) is 2 inches wider than the door slab. This gives 3/4" for the jamb and 1/4" of 'play' for each side, for you to adjust the jamb to make the door operate properly. So if you've got 29 13/16 instead of 30, you'll end up with a little over 1/4 of play total instead of 1/2. Still should be plenty if your jacks ...


2

I think it's a push latch or a push to close latch for sliding doors- like the one pictured below:


2

There's a built-in gap in the height and width of the opening. so trimmer/king plumb parallel to the wall's length isn't crucial (to a degree). It's far more critical to get the wall itself plumb perpendicular to the rough opening. Nearly everything else can be shimmed out later, assuming reasonably accurate dimensions. Using a level of adequate length (to ...


6

The reason for a rough opening is so that it CAN be rough in dimensions. Your opening should be no problem. Rough openings are made larger to accommodate headers and floors than out of level, adjacent studs that may be out of plumb, framing lumber that has thickness variations, openings that are slightly out of square and maybe some other things I've not ...


2

You do need to have a primer for sure. Just a tip from someone who paints 20+ metal doors a year. Use automotive spray paint. Cost a couple bucks more and you can pick it up at local parts store or online. The colors are better, then finish is better, and they make some great looking clear coats. Two coats of apple red auto paint + 2 coats of clear ...


1

Clean it well and then sand at 400 grit or rougher to give the surface some roughness so the new paint can adhere. Don't go too rouch or else the scratches will show through. You can go as low as 80 grit if you use a fill primer before painting. I'd say 220 to 400 if you don't plan on using a primer. Check the directions on the paint you plan to use - they ...


0

I say oil based primer & paint. And the reason is, most of the manufactured doors these days are veneered & not solid. Water based Acrylic primer & paint are okay on a solid wood door , but is is bad for veneered doors. I sell both types of doors. And my customers are all told to use oil based products when finishing their doors. If they don't ...


2

There are a lot of options you could consider depending on your budget and opinion on "cheap". There are acoustic dampening windows you could look into if you have a higher budget and don't mind replacing your window. If you're sure that the main source of noise penetration is through the window, which is to be expected, then this might be the best / most ...



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