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3

Effectively there should be no difference. They only vary for aesthetic purposes. Someone trying to access the door via cutting the cylinder would have to work very hard indeed regardless of which model you pick. What's much more important is that you ensure that the rest of the door is as secure as the lock mechanism itself.


2

The recommended rough opening for a 36" x 80" door, is 38 1/2" x 82". So you're basically looking at something like this. Basically, you'll have to fill the purple area with framing. Which means you might have to either use thin planks on the sides, or cut into the walls to install framing. The rough opening (blue) around the jamb (brown) will be left ...


2

I would bet the doors were dryer than they are now. Most basements are more humid than the rest of a typical home, especially in the summer. In the winter they will shrink again, but it will be needed to trim a little here and there to get them to work in the summer.


2

If you just want the bathroom door held closed, remove the latch mechanism totally, install a dummy knob and use a magnetic closure to hold the door in place. You do not even need the magnet to touch the matched plate on the stronger ones. If you are using a bit of foam or a vinyl bumper on the door itself, adjust the magnet back from the plate until it is ...


2

Some jurisdictions, such as New York City, require self-closing, self-locking doors to the entry of multiple family dwellings (,8 or more units), but do not seem to require them on smaller housing units (such as one or two family homes) or on the individual apartments within a larger unit. Even when locks are required, they do not need to be in the knob of ...


1

A door/knob that is set properly will make very little noise during normal operation. The noise caused by the door hitting the jamb is almost certainly a function of misalignment (i.e. the door is striking the jamb stop at only one location). When properly hung the tight tolerances will trap air as the door closes and create a natural cushioning effect. ...


1

I had two doors that would stick, a hand plane was much more effective then sanding. If you do not have one buy an Empire Pocket plane, they are around 10 dollars and just as effective.


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If the door panel, the moving part, is not clad (covered with metal) on the outside, the easiest way to remedy the problem is to plane about an 1/8" off the door itself. The weather-stripping is part of the jamb so it will not be affected. The interior side of the track will have a few screws holding it place. I see one screw hole in the picture, looks like ...


1

Aha! It's a "Sargent". Found the answer here http://youtu.be/VyzTw5l-xhs Thank you, Internet!


1

Testor101 is correct in both points. Coping this joint with the coping saw is the way it was most likely done when it was built. It does allow for a corner to be a bit of out of square, but doing this will be taxing on the blade of a coping saw, it is a lot of wood to cut through. But it can be done with patience. Trying to rush through a cut this size will ...


1

I am not sure what your exact situation is but I did something very similar in my last house. We had a hallway that led to 4 bedrooms. The kitchen was right by the entrance to the hallway so it became very noisy. Again I was right around the same dimensions as you too - think mine was about 38" wide. What I did was install a pocket door. These come in ...


1

Usually†, an external door has a weatherboard with a drip-channel and a sealing system. I'd check that this is intact. On a badly fitted door, the door can sag and cause the flexible sealing strips to be torn off. There's usually also a sealing strip in the frame at sides and top, but this is mostly for draughtproofing. If water is pooling outside ...


1

Plans for a screen door were published in the August 2010 issue of Woodworker's Journal, if that helps at all. Try libraries and/or see if you can find someone who'd lend you their copy.



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