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5

Don't laugh, this may work as I have used it on stuck or cross-threaded bolts and locks. Remember that heat makes metals expand, while cold makes metals contract. Looks like the usual 5-pin tumbler lock. I do not know how the key is stuck, but brass is a soft metal. After long term use the surface can becomes rounded and not move the tumblers correctly. The ...


4

A locksmith can order (if necessary) and set up padlocks or locking hasps that respond to your house key, unless the house lock is using a particularly uncommon key blank. They may be a bit larger than the ones designed to be sold in bulk, and they will probably be a bit more expensive, but the price shouldn't be unreasonable.


3

I find that stucco homes have this problem because of the metal mesh in the walls act like a faraday cage. You may be able to extend the antenna to the exterior of the garage and it will work better.


2

Graphite lube is better than WD-40 for locks... try a product called lock-ease. Use a rubber mallet and whack it hard many times while turning and jiggling the key. Don't hit the key, when hammering. Keep turning-pressure on the key while hammering and jiggling. Edit- You can use WD-40 in a pinch, if you don't have graphite, but you should then use ...


2

The answer suggesting using a spray foam to fill the cavities in a hollow core door is totally wrong. Hollow core doors have a "honeycomb" card board baffle inside designed to keep the door faces from warping. The spaces created inside are probably 15 square inches or so. Once the foam filled the baffled off space, you wouldn't be able to put in any more. ...


1

I had a similar problem with my apartment entry door and couldn't find any answers online. So I called the building locksmith who said I should use a knife to (gently) pry off the rosette on the inside door, which is the disk that covers the base of the handle. Under the rosette should be a pair of screws that connect the two handles to either side of the ...


1

Sure, if they're available. Most sliding doors simply lift out. Some have a retention mechanism that would need to be removed first. You'll probably need to level the doors to fit the frame using built-in adjusters, and verify that the latch hardware still aligns.


1

(can't see the images as I am at work) I had a key get stuck in a lock half rotated once. I forget exactly what happed. I believe it has something to do with ability to set the lock for a different key, one of the pieces got jammed. I ended up disassembling the entire lock and reassembling.


1

Normally,the frame of a prehung door is a bit smaller than the opening. When it is installed, that space allows you to use shims to fine-tune the frame's poisition so it is straight and level snd square even if the opening isn't. Mounting screws are then driven through the shims and into the structural framing to hold the door in that position. Gaps ...


1

You removed one side of the jamb, and replaced it with new construction. But, there are 2 problems. the jamb is bowing; the jamb is not deep enough. The old jambs were 5 1/4" and fit perfectly since you have plaster instead of drywall. The new jams are 4 1/2" since they are assuming drywall. Those 2 problems are separate and should be treated as such ...


1

It appears to me you have a brick exterior and a 2x4 wall that gives you a thicker wall. At the very least, you need a jamb for 2x6 walls. That may be wide enough to fit. Then follow the instructions for proper installation. Good,luck!


1

It's the carpenter's responsibility to properly shim and anchor any door jamb. Unless it's a rigid steel commercial unit, it's not designed to be self-supporting. I usually shim behind each hinge on the hinge side, and at four locations, including the latch position, on the latch side. Use a combination of wedge and flat shims. For an exterior door I ...


1

You were close with your search term, but try searching, "roller catch". You'll find a ton of choices. (edit to add a couple of thoughts...) Regarding repair versus replace: it's impossible at this distance to know, but replace usually is more predictable. (And in this case, probably not too expensive.) And as a general rule, when I'm searching for ...


1

if this is an anodized aluminum sill (thats what it looks like), try using brake fluid. it will destroy just about any paint bond out there. just wipe up afterwards and degrease with a good quality degreaser. be wary though, if its anything else other that anodized aluminum (or an other uncoated metal), the brake fluid will destroy the coating (even ...


1

you can just replace your house lock or locks with weiser smartkey units, and then buy a weiser smart keyed padlock. i have six smartkey locks on the doors in my home, and a dozen or so padlocks. all can be operated with a single key. and, as a bonus, you can rekey your locks yourself in about 30 seconds.



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