Hot answers tagged doors
There is no code that tells you that your bedroom doors need to swing in for a bedroom. But it is usually not a good idea for them to swing out. as you mentioned the doors present an obstruction in spaces. In hallways it might even be comical to wind your way around 7 open doors from both sides. when you are talking about privacy the doors have swung ...
For this scenario, since it's a hollow core door, I'd get your plywood templates aligned on the outside, and drill in from each side of the door. If you had a solid core door, I'd worry about not being aligned from each side and suggest holding the drill perfectly level and going all the way through from one side only.
There's a pivot joint in the middle of the knob shaft which lets the two ends rotate relative to each other. You need to get things lined up so each end of the shaft engages just its side of the lockset. That may take some experimentation to get the amount screwed into each of the knobs just right to balance this out, though the cross-pin should help you ...
That is a 35mm cup hinge, sometimes known as a Euro hinge. They wear out over time, so replacement is a cheap and cheerful option. If you buy a cheap one (say, at a big box store), you'll need to replace it at some point; if you buy a Blum/ Hafele/ Salice or other high-end replacement, it'll last as long as the cabinet. When buying, you'll be faced with a ...
Consider adding an additional piece of molding outside of the casing to hide the gap. The casing (door and window frame moldings) should be mounted parallel to the drywall (not canted in). They can be shimmed on the outside edge using stock cedar shims every 12" to 15". Nail through the shims and then trim the shims flush to the outside edge of the casing. ...
Yes. Set the door flush to the exterior. Google "jamb extension" for the rest. (Your jamb extensions will probably be 2", so likely to require ripping.)
The shims come ready made at lumber and big box stores or if you have one you can make them using a miter box and a 2X10 or the like. My miterbox is an old Hitachi slide compound. It can cut a piece of material about 12" wide allthe way through. When I need to make shims I cut off scrap 2X10 or 2X8 blocks about 12" long. Turn the blocks 90 degree so the end ...
I have never had or heard of this happening before, but it sounds like the framing needs to be tightened up somewhere. The squeak will need to be isolated, as in pinpointed to the actual joint or where 2 pieces of wood come together, is squeaking, then with some care, screw the framing together so it draws the joint where the framing meets is tight again.
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