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7

Not worth the time and effort. Replace the door.


7

I would try applying some wood glue into the split with a small brush. Sandwich the door between two 2x4's with some clamps. It may help to put some wax paper on the 2x4 to keep any glue from adhering the board to the door. Tighten the clamps until the glue starts to squeeze from the crack. Let it sit 24 hours, remove the clamps and scrape any excess dried ...


3

If you could dimple in the metal around the hole so that you leave enough metal for screw threads to engage then you can install a flat head sheet metal screw that has threads right up to the head. This strategy in the best case would recess the screw head enough so that you could use some high temperature epoxy to fill in over the screw head. In the less ...


3

Yes, a novice handyman can easily replace door knobs and deadbolts. All of these come with good instructions, so read and follow them and you will be fine. In North America, residential door knobs and door locks have a back set of either 2 3/8" or 2 3/4" - the backset is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole for the door knob or ...


2

Fire barrier sealant/filler by 3M might do the trick. I've used it when I've drilled holes in studs for running wire or pipe that are required to be solid for fire-barrier purposes. This is good enough for the inspectors. It hardens well enough to paint.


2

Try a set of floor tile lifters that have a handle and strong suction cups on each end. Here's a link. http://www.amazon.com/Red-Double-Suction-Tile-Lifter/dp/B00HDP84SU You may be able to do the same thing with a couple of plungers if you can get a good seal. Good luck!


2

Pull hinge pins and try opening from that side? (Note that this is why hinges with non-removable pins are more secure.) FWIW, I'm not willing to go much beyond this suggestion, as we don't have good evidence that you are actually the owner or otherwise authorized to pass that door. A local locksmith might be able to help, though.


1

I can't tell from the picture but it seems likely that the floor beneath the middle of the sill is sagging or just lower than the ends of the sill for whatever reason. If that is the case, and it were me, I'd pull up the existing sill and shim up the area that is too low. Set a straight edge across the width of the door frame to see how much material needs ...


1

In case anyone else wants to know: I went and bought a 330 Volt 54-63 uf capacitor and installed it. Not only did I not electrocute myself, I fixed it. It cost me < $7 - not too bad.


1

I just want to make sure I understand the situation. You have a fire-rated door at the front of the house with a small screw hole on the interior - does this mean it is an exterior door? Fire-rated doors are usually used to separate two areas of a building to slow down the spread of any fire, e.g. separate garage from living space. If you are using the ...


1

j-b weld will go to 450 degrees - if you can pop the hinge pins and lay the door flay it would be easier to apply. Bondo is cosmetic - (auto body filler) ... good for 180 degrees. BTW - your screw idea seems just fine. If its hollow a rivet is an option.


1

First you can use your old trim on new doors - which is more often the case after installing prehung. Your trim should be uniform throughout a floor or house. Also on the paint that came off. You need to skim that with drywall mud or spackle. Then sand it to match rest of wall, prime it and then paint whatever color you had before.


1

If there is a gap on the hinge side and tightening the hinge screws does not close the gap, then swap one of the hinge screws for a longer construction screw. The construction screw will be long enough to grab the 2x4 behind the frame of the door and will close the gap. Just be slow to tighten it just enough to fix the door and not pull the door frame ...



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