Hot answers tagged door-frame
7
Bifold rough openings: to the hinge (pivot ) side add 3/4", to the other other side, 1/4"
So for single 24" wide door, a 25" RO (which is really a finished opening for bifolds) is needed.
You need a bit more clearance on the pivot side, because the pivot is inboard a bit and it needs clearance to swing through (pivot around) the thickness of the door. ...
5
From International Residential Code, your local planning department is the final authority on what may or may not be done after inspecting what modifications you are intending to do. This is a job that requires a permit and consultation with an experienced contractor.
R802.7.1 Sawn lumber. Notches in solid lumber joists, rafters, blocking and beams shall ...
5
First of all, some terminology.
What you want to replace is called the JAMB.
You can either replace the whole thing (prefered) or try and fit a smaller piece in to fix the broken area.
With a utility knife, score the paint on both sides of the STOP (The thin piece that stops the door when it is closed.
Pry it off with a small prybar, slot screw driver ...
5
The closet doors are most likely listed in actual finished opening size. However it is a good idea to use a tape measure to check 100% for sure. Some doors are made a little oversize to allow trimming into final size for the specified opening size. Other doors may very well be made a small amount undersize to allow for the necessary clearances needed for a ...
4
There are lots of concerns I can think of (this is a much bigger project than simply cutting a rectangle in the wall):
Exterior walls are load bearing, so you need to construct a header, king, and jack studs, to properly transfer the load over the door. During construction of this, it's a good idea to install temporary bracing.
Any utility lines in the ...
4
There's no such thing as US building codes, there are state, county, and municipal codes which vary widely between areas. The only way to know is to ask, which is what I'd recommend you do. There's no harm in it, simply call the office that is responsible and ask. You don't have to say you've already done it if you're worried about it, you could say you are ...
4
You should definitely not cut those beams! They are massive because they carry the load of whatever is above you. If you want to modify the structure to carry that weight elsewhere, that is possible but you will need to get help from someone who knows how to safely modify structure and you will need a building permit.
I'm guessing that sort of cost and ...
2
One approach is an oversized pre-cased, split-jamb door. These have casings (room side moldings) pre installed to the jamb and are attached separately from each side. The joint in the middle is hidden by the stop (the molding that the door actually rests against when closed). This is a home center site describing the process.
These doors probably would ...
2
It's best explained on this page:
http://www.specialtydoorhardware.com/door-handedness/
Left Hand – Hinges on the left, opens inward.
Left Hand Reverse – Hinges on the left, opens outward.
Right Hand – Hinges on the right, opens inward.
Right Hand Reverse – Hinges on the right, opens outward.
2
You could clean it up, fill the cracks and gaps with Bondo or a similar filler, sand it smooth and paint it.
2
Remove trim.
Remove door casing.
Remove drywall around jack studs (2x4 closest to door opening on each side) and pretty much all the way up to the ceiling. Stop if you have roofing structure above your door - keep going if you don't.
Pull out jack studs (you could just extend them with a piece of 2x4 on non load bearing walls)
Push up header to ...
2
I see in your picture that there is a wooden shim between the door frame and the jack stud. Typically the frame should be screwed into the jack stud separately from the door hinge. The small door hinge screws should only have to hold onto the frame of the door and usually don't need to be driven into the wall stud.
A fire door can be quite heavy though ...
1
The answer is different between a structure supported by brick and a brick faced (brick veneer) wood structure.
It also depends if you want the door flush with the brick or inset from the brick.
The jamb extensions address the situation where the door assembly is smaller than the combined wall thicknesses
In general, doors are attached to the building ...
1
Here in the UK the law says that any work carried out on a firedoor should be certified. Please check your local laws and specifications. According to our standards your frame is too thin and there should be no gap between the frame and timber. We used to pack under the hinge with intumescent material made by Envirograf(UK), until you have an even gap of 3 ...
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In your specific case, the weight of the door has probably stressed the screws in the jambs and enlarged the jamb holes a bit, making it difficult to tork the hinges snug, thus causing the door to sag.
Since you already have a good shim between the jamb and stud, replace the short screws with some 2 to 2 1/2 inch wood screws. Typically size 10 to 12. Now, ...
1
Unfortunately, it looks like you have a structural problem in the front wall or foundation of the mudroom. This is evidenced by the severe cracking in the brick to the right of the door, as well as cracking in the concrete under your threshold and at left. The picture showing cracking to the right of your door also shows more mortar above the lowest course ...
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First, get a good square and level and check exactly what is out of line. Also check the floor in the area. Look in the basement at the support beams. Are they sagging? Have they been modified from the original plan with some sort of renovation? In other words, make sure this is not a symptom of some bigger problem.
If it's a new house, they settle and ...
1
I've done this in a similar situation.
Rip some 1/2 by 1/2 strips of whatever you have. Glue them to the inner edge of the casing you are going to use. Use a jointer or a plane to make the two pieces flush.
You would be making a custom version of the cap moulding 'bib' shows above. When you install the door, you can either center it in the wall and use ...
1
With the door closed, stand on the hinged side of the door. If you can see the hinges with the door closed you are on the hinged side of the door. If your left hand is closest to the door knob it is a left hand door. If your right hand is closest to the door knob it is a right hand door. This method works in the store where the doors are strapped shut. On ...
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What I would do if it is hitting on the latch side is to remove a screw on each hinge in the middle of the hinge and replace it with a screw that is about 3½" to 4" long. Tightening these screws will pull the jamb in on the hinge side giving your door room to close on the latch side. Try it.
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