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6

The reason for a rough opening is so that it CAN be rough in dimensions. Your opening should be no problem. Rough openings are made larger to accommodate headers and floors than out of level, adjacent studs that may be out of plumb, framing lumber that has thickness variations, openings that are slightly out of square and maybe some other things I've not ...


3

Generally for interior doors the RO (Rough Opening) is 2 inches wider than the door slab. This gives 3/4" for the jamb and 1/4" of 'play' for each side, for you to adjust the jamb to make the door operate properly. So if you've got 29 13/16 instead of 30, you'll end up with a little over 1/4 of play total instead of 1/2. Still should be plenty if your jacks ...


2

Stiffness is one reason, but not exactly in the way that was mentioned above. That return will prevent waviness as viewed from the room. Also, raw edges are ugly, even if they return into the wall. They're difficult to caulk, too, as there's no real bond surface--the caulk just falls behind if there's a gap.


2

There's a built-in gap in the height and width of the opening. so trimmer/king plumb parallel to the wall's length isn't crucial (to a degree). It's far more critical to get the wall itself plumb perpendicular to the rough opening. Nearly everything else can be shimmed out later, assuming reasonably accurate dimensions. Using a level of adequate length (to ...


2

Purchase a 1" thick by 3 1/2" wide PVC trim to go around the 3 sides of the door. Ripping to width were it fit to a proper set back from the edge of the jamb in all areas below the masonry cap of the walls. In essence, trimming in out in a typical fashion the way interior doors are trimmed. A thinner trim would work but the thicker trim allows the back side ...



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