Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

10

I've had luck using a sledge hammer in similar circumstances. You'd be surprised how many problems in life have "use a sledge hammer" as the correct answer. ________ | | |________| | | | | | | | | |__|


9

The only way to do what you want to do is cut the concrete with a gear driven saw and masonry blade, then jack hammer out the rest of the concrete. It really is not that difficult and you can rent all the equipment and do it in a day easy. You don't have to cut all the way through the concrete, but at least 1/3 the way through. it should break off cleanly. ...


9

You didn't mention how tall the chimney is. 2 story house or single. Is there or was there ever a displacement for a fireplace, one flue or two? Lined or bare brick interior? In general, the procedure is brick by brick. A small mini jack/impact hammer will speed up the process, but it can be done with a hammer and cold chisel. Most chimneys are ...


8

OH, looks like fun! Love to demo small buildings. Basic tools will be great. Large rip claw hammers, pry bars, a good 4 foot demo bar, a circular saw, and MOST IMPORTANT tool would be a good reciprocating saw with long bi-metal demo blades. Be careful, start at the top, remove the roof panels. cut off the rafters one at a time. then either cut and knock ...


7

Tile is generally installed as a permanent fixture. Removal is intended to be difficult - in fact easy removal is a clear indicator that the installation wasn't done well. The sub-material is often destroyed in the removal process because of the force necessary for removal of the product. DITRA, being textured, would hold onto the mortar used to mount the ...


6

If it was poured onto an already existing slab, I would try separating it from the slab first to see if it can be broken away and leave the floor intact. Note: The pad should weigh about 815 pounds (370 kg) so light duty efforts are inappropriate. Obtain two heavy steel digging bars like this along with some scrap 2x4s or similar. With heavy gloves on, ...


5

The only thing bearing on that wall are shampoo bottles. Knock away. The wall is empty. Note that the end of the porcelain tub is open, so something will have to go back to cover it up. When it's open you can inspect under the tub for horrors. But you'll also want to remove the wall sheathing all around that tub, and read up about flashing and backer ...


5

Asbestos has been banned in Europe for over a decade you will be fine. Blue and brown asbestos was been banned since 1985 and white asbestos since 1999 (resolving and complete end by 2005) so 2008 (manufactured or sold) gypsum board could not legally have asbestos. The only danger you'd face is the possibly older insulation behind it or you end up shaking ...


4

Couple possibilities I can think of (hard to tell without looking at a floor plan): Floor was built over a larger area and then covered over. Landing or base of the stairs was moved, possibly during early construction. Floor or landing was intentionally extended to provide a shelf for storage. Joists are continuing to a load bearing structure (wall of the ...


4

Generally, house mice don't carry hantavirus. However, it sounds like your property may be semi-rural, so there might be deer mice, which may carry it. I found this Center for Disease Control PDF. Interestingly enough, it doesn't talk about respiratory protection at all. It seems that all you need to do is spray down the old nests/etc. with disinfectant ...


4

I tried the screwdriver and chisel technique with some tiles in a flat in Brighton... and quickly gave up once I found there were three layers of tiles there! So I invested in a cheapish power chisel - like a hammer drill, only it doesn't go around - and finished the job in a weekend. If you go this route, it's definitely worth buying ear defenders and a ...


4

I had the same problem with a much bigger wall and I was using a small sledge hammer. No matter how hard I swung the hammer the wall wasn't moving. So I got a bigger sledge hammer . . . one that has a 4 foot handler and a 12 pound head. It was about $20 at Harbor Freight (cheap tools but they work for weekend jobs). I took one swing at the top (it was ...


4

Use (if you can fit it on) or replicate the function of a "lally column cutter" - I suspect replicate the function will be the better bet - use a cutoff disk in an angle grinder to score a line around the base of the steel (not a piddly little score, ideally - deepish, but it need not hit concrete) and then smack the top of the column. Enjoy the power of ...


4

We removed an old brick chimney to install a modern (well, 1970's modern - stainless steel is more common these days in your better chimneys) block and tile chimney by simply hammering and removing bricks. If you do it top down it's "apparently more tedious" but actually less time overall than anything involving "knocking it down" and then clearing up the ...


3

Hammer and chisel. That area should take about 10-15 minutes. If you pat the area with a hammer it will break the bond with the tile. The chisel isn't used much accept to knock off build up of thinset.


3

The magic words you want are "RRP", the EPA Renovation, Repair and Painting rules. For a simple residential demolition that's all you need. For details see http://www2.epa.gov/lead/renovation-repair-and-painting-program Homeowners can take the RRP certification course (I did), but in most cases you'll want to ask the contractor for their RRP certification ...


3

You have electrical in your shed. Before doing anything that branch needs to be terminated correctly. I don't think there is a pure art to the small demo. I personally would slice the front wall beams halfway up with whatever saw I thought would be the quickest and then sledge hammer from the corners. Roof should fall/slide down. Then I would just ...


3

If it is nailed/ screwed only to the joists without any furring strips between the joists I would use a Sawz-all or a reciprocating saw. Cut or hammer a hole large enough to verify there are no cables or plumbing between two joist. Run the saw blade along the inside edge of the joists and remove the drywall in the largest pieces you can handle. When the only ...


3

See if you can get hold of a big heavy hammer. You will most likely need a masonry chisel too, not least as if the mortar is hard it will be quite tricky to remove from underneath the bottom course of bricks. This is the kind of "occasional" job where it's handy to know someone (friend? family) who you can lend you the tools for the weekend. Or, hire them. ...


3

Best bet would be to have some one come in and cut it for you. Then you could take care of the demo of the half you don't need. This will result in the cleanest possible division. Edit You may also be able to rent the saw and cut it on your own. I love to DIY things, but this seems like something I would have a pro do.


3

It will probably be 3 to 6 hours of non-skilled labor (neighborhood kids?) to dig up the concrete and remove the whole assembly. Don't cut the post off: it will help wiggle out the base. Dig a hole immediately to one side of the concrete base of a convenient size. (There is no need to dig all around it.) A post hole digger works great. Make the hole at ...


3

If you have plenty of time, and don't want to hire power tools, you can do it a bit at a time over several weeks (months?). It will be hard work but anyone can do it. That's a brick bolster and a club hammer, which is what I had to hand when I needed to break up some brickwork. You could try some other type of cold chisel or hammer. It depends what ...


3

I have come across quite a few houses lately where they have back-to-back closets and we have generally turned these into two walk-ins vs. two traditional sliding door (shallow rectangle). If the wall is not load bearing it is simply demoing the walls, rerunning any electric, reframing where needed, lots of drywall patching and fixing the carpet/flooring ...


3

A recip saw is a great tool. I'd also pick up a shop vac if you don't have one. Demoing plaster walls is a hard and messy job. I'd use the side of the sledge against the wall; that breaks the front of the plaster off of the lath, and you can then remove it and follow by removing the lath.


2

You are going to need to pull permits unless you live somewhere that doesn't have any requirements for them. Since that is probably visible from the road, there is almost no way that code enforcement or one of your neighbors isn't going to see it and report you. The stairs look like the precast concrete kind and probably are hollow and not attached to your ...


2

A masonry chisel and drilling hammer should probably do the trick.


2

Typically I hit the first one (kind of gently) with a hammer until it cracks/shatters. Grind out the grout then pry out the pieces with a chisel or just a beefy flathead screwdriver. Once you have one out, you should be able to use a chisel or a flat head screwdriver to get under the other ones. Put the screwdriver under/against the edge of the tile and ...


2

Why not add in paper or craigslist; 'Free shed pickup only'


2

I would advertise "Free Shed" on Craigslist. I had a tree house I constructed for my grand kids, and when they outgrew it that's what I did. Some folks came out one Saturday, disassembled it, and took it away. They did the whole job. I just got to watch.


2

The first thing is to check is that you are using the correct blade type. The one in you picture looks like it might be a wood blade, but I can't be certain. There are various qualities of metal blades, so considering the thickness, you might opt for a higher quality (more expensive) blade. Don't be surprised if you go through a few blades on this. ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible