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10

It has to do more with the quality of the the 2x6s vs the 4x6. A 4x6 x 12 board would have to be clear all the way through, with no cracks or knots. Most softwood logs won't produce this board, and if it cracks, it is likely to break more easily vs the 2x6. On the other hand, drilling a bunch of holes in a 2x6 does it no favors, though because the two ...


7

Boards that are laminated in some fashion get an overall durability increase (not necessarily net strength increase) because they no longer suffer from a single grain dimension through the thickness. Primarily, in the case you describe a split or warp will not impact the whole board, only half of it. A properly laminated beam (like VersaLam or Glulam) does ...


6

The jury is still out on these types of products. I was at a contractors day at my local Lowes and the rep from one of the manufactures of the epoxy style coverings was there demonstrating the product. The end result was a smooth, not sandy, but mottled non skid finish. the dried samples on display revealed about an 1/8" coating on the wood. I did spend a ...


6

It would be best to use two. If you make sure your deck boards are cupped down you would think that only one screw would be fine, to stop the board from cupping up in the center. I have seen wood cup in some extremely odd ways so this is not always the case. Two per board/joist intersection will ensure you do not need to mess with it in the future. Or you ...


5

Based on questions answered in chat you have a case where the contractor didn't measure the deck properly, and built it too high, could not flash properly under the door frame, and performed a "some genius" move putting a transition strip (meant for interior use) over top of the door frame and the vinyl, with caulk under neath. Stupid. Two options: 1 ...


5

Simple really assuming you have the proper tools. Cut your 4x4's to 18 inch length Build a frame Attach to the 4x4 posts Cut wood to fit the surface of the frame Add lateral support to the 4x4 posts To join 2 benches at a corner, figure out your corner angle and modify the plans to match. Wooden Bench Plans Website


5

Use face mount joist hangers and set them so that the tops of the joists are all level. You could try to return the joists and demand a batch that are the same size. Or shim them, which is less than ideal. As stated in comments, joists can vary in size based on moisture content. Not only that, but they'll expand and contract a bit with moisture changes in ...


5

The Scout Pioneering website contains information on how to build several bridges. I am guessing that most of these are more complicated than what you had in mind, so if you want something simpler, you can attempt flat span bridge using 2x12's for a span between 14 and 18 feet. On the latter page the author goes on to say that "[i]f you are thinking of ...


3

It depends on your local building codes, but most places in the US, they will insist on the joist hangers. Joist hangers are far stronger and safer. They are not that much more trouble, in fact they may be easier to work with. You can put them in half way, set the jousts in, then finish attaching them.


3

The 45 degree decking is the primary sub-floor. It's a technique that was widely used in the past, but has subsequently been replaced with simply dropping sheets of plywood down. In answer to your questions: 1) You can glue and screw to the sub-floor. 2) In this case, it doesn't matter. The sub-floor is carrying the load diagonally. However, if there ...


3

First, a disclaimer: Make sure the wood you are going to use will stand up in the environment you're placing them in. You may be better off using these with the T&G on an indoor project. Weather outside will quickly weather non-pressure treated wood, and decks typically require thicker boards than you'd have inside since they don't have a sub-floor. For ...


3

Without pictures and maybe a diagram of some kind it's impossible to give you exact advice, so I'll give you more general. Decking is something you want to last for years, and if done right will add value to your home. Done wrong at the beginning it is likely to get worse over time, and could detract from your property later. It may be that you can fix the ...


3

Wolmanized wood is a subsection of pressure treated wood. There are many different processes that fall in the preserved wood category and Wolmanized wood used a copper azole process. It is manufactured by Arch wood products.


3

In architecture we use laminated timber in order to reach long distances. It would be impossible otherwise. Here is just to reduce weak spots. By the way, that is not a real laminated timber but just a pair of beam. laminated beam are mated differently: ___________ ____________ ___________ _____ ___________ ___________ ______ ___________ ____________ ...


2

I think they address the biggest single problem with wooden decking, the effects of sun and water on horizontal surfaces. Application over rotten wood, damp wood, etc, will likely cause failures of the coatings (or any coating, for that matter) That said, there are other deck problems that the coatings DON'T address: Too tight spacing of deck boards , ...


2

Contact the ChoiceDek folks; all manufacturers have technical support to answer just that kind of questions.


2

Before you start with a sander, I would try a power washer. These can be rented from a big box store for a day or two. If you have several projects, consider purchase. You do need to be careful since the force of the water is strong enough to cause injury if mishandled. Also, do not try to powerwash very soft woods such as redwood or cedar. It is amazing ...


2

Where I live old floor boards are like gold bricks. I had to replace a few boards in a house built in the 1920's and to get boards that matched was like $20 / linear meter. And that was just for ratty old baltic pine, with nail holes and dents and stains. Consider selling the boards and buying new hardwood decking with the proceeds.


2

Toenail the joists in place even at the top. Then install joist hangers to permanently attach them.


2

Use joist hangers, aligning the tops of the joists so they're all level with each other before you nail the hangers into place. It helps to temporarily clamp a short (about 24" long) 2x4 to the tops of the joists, overhanging the end so you can hang the joist in place in exact alignment with the top of the rim joist.


2

I've always just held the decking back from the skirt (which is fastened tight to framing) to create a gap, but this obviously results in an undrained channel. I can see the benefit of your plan for allowing small tree debris and other dirt to drop out. Rip some 5mm strips of your decking material from scrap and cut them just shorter than the height of the ...


2

Unless height is an issue, why limit yourself to a 6" deep timber? It's the height that's going to give the beam its rigidity. Why not look at an 8" or 9" deep floor joists? We use 9" x 2" and even 9" x 3" floor joists all the time. Although, the last bridge we made (over a stream to a rough old fishing pond so aesthetics wasn't an issue) we used 'open ...


1

We always level the bottoms (any bow uppermost) and then shim the tops (mostly because in a new build you'll often have joists sitting on walls too, so you get used to the bottoms being spot on and the tops out). Plus we use hangers with a heel plate that tucks underneath the mounting joist. However thats going back decades. We can ask for the joists to be "...


1

I think your goal should be to have the deck a couple of inches below the bottom of the siding. If you use 2x6 joists, you'll need 5.5" plus the width of the decking, so you'll have to dig out the grass enough to get that depth. There are two ways to deal with the concrete pad. You could put a 2x4 on it's side and shim it up with pressure-treated shims ...


1

I can't find a floor joist span table that goes smaller than a 2x6. However, the American Wood Council calculator gives an allowable span for #2 Southern Douglas Fir 2x4s (~35mm x ~90mm) at 16" (405mm) centers at 5',8" (~1750mm) with a wet condition 10lb dead load and 40lb live load. If the dimension measurement is accurate, the joists wouldn't get past ...


1

I am not a structural engineer, but I would not recommend using concrete deck blocks to hold up your entire home. These blocks are not great for freestanding structures because they aren't anchored to the ground. Heavy winds may be able to get underneath the yurt and blow it over. The soil below could also rapidly change and cause part of your supports to ...


1

It's quite a drop off there on the manhole side. If it were me, the priority would be to build steps of some kind there--or a railing. Anything that is well-drained will not rot. Rot only occurs when something sits in water. You could certainly deck the porch over if you wanted. My pet peeve is people who just stick wood in the ground. The main thing to ...


1

If properly reinforced and if the actual footing (which the 12" column isn't, unless you have no flare or flat pad on the bottom, which you should reconsider unless you have stunning bearing) is of adequate size to support both the imposed load and the weight of the longer column, it should not be a problem. But it's difficult to accurately assess such ...


1

So long as the installation meets the engineered design [and the design was properly engineered], the sole reason to choose one spacing over another is cost. In some cases larger spacing will require an upgrade to supplementary structural components such as framing anchors or increased straps or additional nails. The only way to know if there is a difference ...


1

I would use titan post anchors for the posts. For the ledger on the hollow block wall you can buy masonry anchors designed for that. Hilti makes tons of really good anchors. For hollow CMU walls, how they work is you drill the hole and insert a screen tube and fill it with the adhesive. Then when you insert the bolt it pushes the adhesive through the ...



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