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That product calls for a minimum 24 hour drying period after pressure washing the deck. So it doesn't sound awfully picky, it just needs to be dry; no standing water. And it must be kept dry. Build a tarping system correctly, as fungku explained, because a few drops of water will ruin a paint job but this is more like a coating; they will mess up the ...


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I have made temp tarp roofs over several work sites when building a deck in winter. (Vancouver, BC here, so similar winters). You should use a new tarp, have a slope for drainage and make sure it is tight and secure. If any leaks or drips get on the wood it takes longer to dry out in the winter (when it's wet out in general). I have never painted a deck ...


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If the deck had continuous support from the block wall it may not have any support beam, and you might have to add one as well as the post(s). If the joists were running parallel to the wall then a beam is probably not necessary, but you will still need an extra joist in place of where the wall was. The posts should have proper footings as well. Check your ...


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In my opinion, it is better in the long run to use concrete footings and concrete piers. You can use pressure-treated but do not use typical pressure treated lumber, you should use something with a treatment rated for ground-contact/in-ground use. The advantage to burying your posts is little to no lateral bracing is needed and it is less work over all. ...


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I would use titan post anchors for the posts. For the ledger on the hollow block wall you can buy masonry anchors designed for that. Hilti makes tons of really good anchors. For hollow CMU walls, how they work is you drill the hole and insert a screen tube and fill it with the adhesive. Then when you insert the bolt it pushes the adhesive through the ...


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When I did my deck I preferred to dig down, use a quikrete concrete form to bring it above level, then mount the post to it using hardware. Reason being if something were to happen to the post (rot or need to replace for some reason) it is easier to do it with this method.


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If you can dig down 4 feet, it's really easy to put a sonotube down and fill it with concrete and put the 6x6 (you might only need 4x4...depends on deck dimensions) on that. source: that's what I did.


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It works for pole barns, it will work for your deck. However, be careful of the quality and/or treatment of your PT lumber - I've seen pressure treated lumber rot off in the ground despite being pressure treated. I think the thicker sections (such as 6x6) are rather difficult to get throughly treated all the way through. I've seen some pole barns use 3 2x6 ...


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If you don't want to build proper concrete footings, then do not attach it to your house. It should be free-standing. If it will not be higher than 3 feet at any point, then a free standing deck on gravel base like your neighbour's would in most cases be perfectly fine.


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It should work but keep in mind that if there is any failure and someone gets injured, things could get ugly pretty quickly. Like you said it's not going to be to code. I've seen multiple decks and other grade level projects using the linked blocks or ones poured by hand as footing. Always best to put some non-degradable structure or material under the ...


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You will have a more stable deck if you go 48" into the ground. This will significantly reduce the stress on the house and deck at the ledger board. In my deck experience (I used to rebuild decks) I would rather have a pier in the ground. In some of the estimates the ground goes through 1,000 freeze thaw cycles in a hard winter here in the Midwest. That ...


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As mentioned in the comment above, the post which is all you should need on the corner, needs to be mounted on a concrete pier that goes to the frost line for your area. If there are other areas of your deck that are supported soley by a post or block on the slab that will rise or fall as ice forms and melts under the slab, needs to be resupported by ...



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