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Either method is fine so it becomes a matter of taste and skill. The first method is the overhang bullnose style, which is the most common. I believe you are using the Trex style grooved decking that utilizes the invisible clips. The grooved boards are definitely not what you want to use for the bullnose or any outside edge, as the grooves will show. You ...


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If the deck is 2' off the ground or less, I wouldn't be overly concerned about it. Otherwise, if they are already existing the easiest way would be to use hardware designed for this kind of connection. However! Keep in mind that a beam that consists of two 2-bys means the two 2-bys are sandwiched together and nailed together so they share their loads and ...


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The fact is that your deck's weight load must be carried underneath it and not using the cinder blocks supporting your garage. That does not limit you from attaching it to the garage to provide horizontal stability and to keep movements in unison. You would simply need to bolt in a faux ledger to the cinder blocks. Make sure that you have at least two ...


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Since I was the commenter in question ;-) Doubled wedges are just wedges put point-to-point and driven towards each other - the wedge is one of the basic machines if your history class even touched on those. I'll be very amused to see alfreema try what alfreema has written. The wedges described there are at a very steep angle and would be quite difficult ...


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1) Measure the height of the railing near the post to determine how high it should be. 2) Now take a short length (say 8") of 2x6 and cut the 6" width down to the height that you measured. Let's say it's 5". So now you have a 2x5 that's 8 inches long. 3) Now put a straight edge from one corner of the 2x5, diagonally, to the opposite corner of the 2x5. 4)...


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The first problem can be dealt with using a Bell 5403 or equivalent weatherproof extension box to provide a place to hook the conduit to and some extra cubic inches for the additional wire fill. You'll need to hook a ground pigtail to it, by the way -- there do not seem to be non-metallic weatherproof extension boxes. Since you are running conduit under ...


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Use a table, circular, or other saw to rip the deck boards to fit.


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The metal appears to be copper. There are house hold cleaners for copper bottom pots that will help clean this. Wrights copper cream is a product my Mom uses. You may need a "car buffer" with a cloth bonnet to do a large area. After getting it bright and clean a spray with a clear lacquer will keep it looking nice for several years. Without sealing it will ...


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The transformer in that kit is designed for outdoor use, the cord plug should be protected with an "in-use" type receptacle cover.


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As long as you can secure the box rigidly to the trim board in accordance with the box's listing and the trim board itself isn't flopping in the breeze, you have it made according to 314.23(A): (A) Surface Mounting. An enclosure mounted on a building or other surface shall be rigidly and securely fastened in place. If the surface does not provide rigid ...


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A plain old cinder block will deteriorate within a matter of years. Use blocks designed for the purpose, or pour footings like you're supposed to, following code to the letter. Concrete Deck Block: Other than as being part of the railings, 2x4s don't belong anywhere in the construction of a deck. I've never used these, but a key rule to follow would ...


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Edit- based on revised question: A) You do need to support th conduit within 3 ft of the box, but the hole in the floor looks to be within 3 ft. B) You can yoke two strut straps together where they go through the floor. You can also put caulk in the hole if you wish, but that has nothing to do with proper support... and since it is a hole on a deck, ...


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There is also this type of saw that may work ok for this job: This type has a lot more control than a larger reciprocating saw because the base rests on the surface of the decking board. These do have disadvantages in that when cutting thicker materials the blade can wander from straight down and create a cut that is not square with the surface. This can ...


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What are the common methods for this type of job? The one you described, plus:


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I would suggest the use of a weatherproof (WR) box extender. One of which could be installed over the existing box giving you sides on to which to connect the PVC conduit. The following is an example. No endorsement of specific products is implied.


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I think I'd get an engineer involved and design some steel plates to be bolted to the ends of your joists. I'd then use appropriately heavy 2x4 joist hangers on a half-height ledger. It would look something like this (profile view): ______________________________________________ |------------------------------------ || * * * | ||...



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