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11

You should cut away carpet. The cabinets will last longer than the carpet and will just be a mess when it's time to install new carpet. I'd want the cabinets secured directly to the floor, not through carpet/pad. When you pull up the carpet and baseboard, you'll see the tack strip. If you are careful, you can re-use it, but it is cheap to replace. ...


7

If they'll accept a full-size model, use the technique for making a template for cutting vinyl flooring to the right size and shape (taken from another answer of mine): ... I use a roll of craft paper and sticky tape to make a template of the room. Start in the center of the room, lightly stick a strip to the ground, and cut it at the edges of the room. ...


7

While I can't speak to the quality of all manufacturers blades, in general the blade that comes with the saw is of no lower quality than any other blade offered by the manufacturer. Most miter saws come with a 24 tooth FTG (Flat Top Grind) blade, which is good for fast course cuts. If you're looking to chop 2x lumber, this blade will work fine for you. If ...


5

Try iron-on edge banding. Iron it on (you will have excess probably) and then trim the excess. You can usually get it pretty close to the color of your stain that you choose.


5

I'm guessing these shattered because of shock or perhaps from being fully extended more than normal since the front wheel takes a lot of the weight when drawer is fully extended. The rail is acting as a lever where 10kg in the front of the drawer could easily be the equivalent of 100kg on that wheel when the drawer is fully open. The other thoughts are if ...


4

You could use MDF. Much cheaper than cabinet grade plywood, and will finish up just fine with paint.


4

Those veneers are without doubt book-matched, but I would say in a very specific method, "Architectural end matching" (End or Butt Matching): Matching between leaves P.S. That is some top quality veneering, the attention to detail is almost pure art (the cabinet maker that did that work is an artisan). This morning on twitter, I asked a few woodworking ...


3

I don't know if I'd go as far as to call the stock blades "crap", but most of the stock ones are going to be basically all-purpose blades. I use mine mainly for framing, and the stock blade was actually a little nicer than I need for what I'm using it for. If you're going to use it for cabinetry, you'll likely want to get a blade for it geared toward that ...


3

With most veneer work only the panels (here, the doors) would be veneered and frames would be solid wood (or at least they would have some solid wood applied to the edges for durability). So, if you have a written specification for your project and you request bookmatched, or end matched, you are not likely to get the effect you want. If you want to specify ...


2

Your circuitry and peripheral devices could be mounted on a piece of plywood. Such plywood could be pre-painted if you wished to get a desired color effect. For a more unique effect you could cover the plywood with a layer of sheet cooper similar to that used by roofers. This could look very cool of it was all buffed out to an exquisite shine and sealed with ...


2

Adding a wall beside an island seems a major step backwards from current trends of open and airy interior architecture, which have been steadily embraced for decades. The obvious solution would be to add a drop down wall, or even just suspend cabinets from the ceiling, like this: . (found here). One idea to help integrate that into the kitchen would be to ...


1

A standard approach on shelving (which works on doors as well) is to glue a solid strip of wood to the edge. Use a piece of clear pine (or other inexpensive wood) the same length as the door edge, about 1/4 inch (or more) thick, and a hair wider than the the thickness of the plywood. (You may need to trim down the plywood so the finished size, after ...


1

Paint strippers have different chemical compositions so it is difficult to properly answer your questions. However, in general, 1. recommend you wait until you can either apply the stripper outside or get proper exhaust ventilation 2. The package on paint strippers will tell you if you should be using a respirator 3. Consider using a non-toxic citrus-based ...


1

In the US and Canada, the standard reference for the industry is Architectural Woodwork Standards produced by the Architectural Woodwork Institute.


1

I am not a cabinet maker at all. I own a 12" Dewalt compound. I replace the blade once a year and it gets used a lot. I buy blades comparable to the stock. The saw has basically cut any object that you can imagine. It handles baseboards OK, and on some door trim. Mainly it is just used for framing and cutting odds and ends. When I have a crew doing ...


1

This isn't an answer, I just have a feeling I'll run up against the character limit for comments. What kind of wood do you have? How will it be finished? What is the basic construction style desired, face frame or Euro? What hinge hardware do you have or want? Is there backing? Solid wood or plywood? What wood working tools do you have available? Are you ...


1

1cm isn't really "deep" for artwork. You won't find a photograph frame to fit it, but pretty much any frame for a canvas will be deep enough. You should be able to find these in arts / crafts stores that have a lot of frames. Often department stores will have only photo frames, so you'll probably have to look in more specialized shops. Otherwise, any frame ...



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