Hot answers tagged corner-bead
I've always butted them together, and I've never had any problems with doing it that way. Not sure what your builder was thinking by overlapping them.
Examine any corner in any building and you'll find that the paint is on plaster, not metal. (Interior paint - even with primer - will scrape off of metal way too easily) The plaster is supposed to just cover the metal corner, neatly. In short - your drywallers (if these are the same guys who botched all the screws) suck.
I was able to find up to 2 1/2" wide corner bead at Home Depot. According to my calculations (5/8" + 5/8" + ~1/2" = 1 3/4"), this should be more than wide enough to cover your corners. The nice thing about paper-faced/backed corner beads, is that you don't have to use nails or screw to install them. You install them the same way you would tape a normal ...
Next time (if there is a next time) maybe stagger the sheets? Then you end up with a regular, 1 sheet corner.
Rip it down and start again... No shortcuts this time... Comment converted to answer
It seems to me that there are two possibilities here. If the opening in the wall is just a pass through without an actual door itself then you would band the opening with drywall material and then put normal metal corner edging around the outside corners of the drywall. On the other hand if there is a door jamb in use with an actual door then the width ...
You want to take a moderate to fine grit sandpaper and try to sand as much of the visible rust off as possible around the outside corner. Don't be concerned about plaster or drywall damage just yet. Next get a good rust sealing primer like this product: Spray liberally along the outside corner until the metal is fully covered. Next, spackle then sand ...
Typically, when butting corner-bead you should, first, cut about a 2" to 3" piece of bead and place it under the butt joint. That way your two pieces will butt together neatly and will be smooth when you mud over them. If your run is longer than 10', you'll need to do this (most bead is 8', but 10' is also available).
I had a similar situation where the backer board extended a few inches past my planned tiling edge in my shower. After I had finished with the tile, I taped the joint and applied joint compound over the backer board and it seems great. It's been three years and there is no cracking or any problem with it. That's not exactly an answer but I hope it helps you ...
Joe, sorry to use the "answer" function again instead of adding another comment, I wanted to attach more pictures. The tile I used was not available with a bullnose so I finished it flat on the sidewall. The edge cant be seen normally so I did not spend time making it perfect, but for your situation I retract my note about never finishing an edge with ...
You should NOT treat the top of the curb as a dry area, prepare it the same way as you prepare the shower floor (and it should be sloped toward the shower). I think you should tile the whole top and front of the curb . If you cant find a suitable "corner round", you could finish the edge of the tile at the front of the curb, or finish the front edge corner ...
I've used them before and they do make it a lot easier, especially if you have trouble keeping paper still from moving in the corners, as I do. I don't think they have any structural benefits or anything like that so if you have trouble with paper tape, try them out in a corner and see if it's easier. You can always take it out and go over it with tape if ...
I'd be tempted to cut back your double sheets 1/2" to 3/4", make sure the resulting pocket was relatively square (or rectangular), and then screw a piece (or pieces) of scrap wood (ripped down to the right size) into the gap. You could drill diagonal pilot holes and get the screws to engage the stud. Then tape and cornerbead the whole deal.
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