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1

You definitely want to look at Stage Brackets, specifically the cheaper stuff, since this stuff can get expensive. Possible Clamps from this website (have a look on the site for the full range) Also, you could try the Rigging Warehouse I like the look of these pipe locks Lastly lighting effect is good on pric Looks really interesting though. But I ...


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For a professional system, Kee Klamps might be what you are looking for: For more DIY accessibility, black pipe is a likely candidate:


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Hawaii and other islands build these Octagonal shaped homes but I prefer metal frames so I moved on with the research. I am not a builder but it looks like this site which has sizes up to 70' : http://www.rcpshelters.com/SLF-OCT.php plus my favorite house plan: http://www.coolhouseplans.com/details.html?pid=chp-19987 could work with multi-unit. However, I am ...


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Light weight and very expensive; percussionist's rack hardware: (gibraltarhardware.com) The one pictured is probably steel tube and the horizontal bars do have a little bit of a curve, but not like in your picture. I had one that was square, stright and made out of aluminum. You could look into boat canopy hardware (also expensive). For everyone else, ...


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The outer frame looks like custom millwork. Whoever architected the house just made a millwork design and the developer had it fabricated. He said I am building 20 houses and so I need 120 window frames like this and he hands the millwork company the architect's design. The architect makes the design match the dimensions of his vinyl windows exactly. That ...


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Since the original window sash, and not the jamb, were replaced with a window replacement insert, to keep the look the same, you need to do some fabricating. All this is dependent upon if you can find an exact replacement unit to match the one installed in 2007. The chance of that.... maybe. Window manufactures make changes to their product over time. Your ...


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Looks like a felt tip pen to me. Most inks are partially water soluble (good news) but they usually have acid in them (bad news). You can probably remove some of the ink by water or other solvent, but no matter what some of it will stay in the wood because it is acid-etched into the wood. So, basically you will have to sand deeply into the wood to eradicate ...


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I find that lacquer thinner really removes a lot of different types of marks off wood. In your case, it will most likely remove the finish, since most commercial furniture finishes are lacquer based. Try a soft lint free rag dampened with lacquer thinner first to see if it removes any ink, AFTER you bring the footboard outside where there is lots of fresh ...


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Before you go at this with trying to sand it.....I would try using paint and finish stripper. This will take off a huge percentage of the finish with a lot less work than sanding it off. The first part of the stripping can be done by scraping off the bubbled surface. The secondary applications of stripper can be done with steel wool. Do wear GOOD rubber ...


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unlikely, since ball-point pen will also have dented the surface so the pen mark is lower that the rest of the wood stain. Paint-thinner will dissolve some pen-inks, but of course it'll also remove the finish on the wood. how about a covering? Pick some interesting fabric, a think layer of batting, and upholster it??


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(I'm assuming that you are in the UK). Concrete floors without DPM are not unusual in houses of that age, so there is a possibility that it's not a cowboy job. The broken bitumen you mention was probably the remnants of an asphalt DPM over the slab. The wood has (as you suggest) likely been used to level the concrete. If they were previously joists for a ...



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