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12

There is a lot to know. Shortest answer: you should let experts handle anything you're not sure of. You need to comply with local building codes (This also means you need to know what those are. Inspectors don't accept ignorance as an excuse.) The design needs to be approved by an architect or structural engineer. There are strict requirements on ...


11

Step #1: Finding the center. Never built a round deck before, but to find out where you want to put the deck, and to mark the center point, I would drive a stake or nail, tie a string to it that is as long as the desired diameter (30' here), and then walk in a circle with it, keeping it taut, and putting some long nails into the ground, at the end of the ...


11

I assume you mean the roof is exposed to the sun...and that in turn is heating your ceiling? If so, options: make sure the roof is reflective (white/metallic) rather than a dark color (which absorbs heat) make sure the roof is insulated If the roof can support a green/planted roof, consider that. plant trees to shade the roof (obviously may take a few ...


10

I don't think there is specific universal height as people aren't manufactured in a specific universal height. Googling for "workbench height" returns many results asking the same thing: what is the best height for a workbench. This page suggests the following method: A good rule of thumb is to make the workbench table the same height as the distance ...


10

This is to protect vehicles from damaging gas appliances that lie beyond. This is a code requirement in many jurisdictions, probably including yours, as most builders don't do anything they don't have to.


9

There's no real answer to this - it depends on how tall you are, what you are using the bench for and if you are standing or sitting (and then, are you using a chair or stool?). The use for it might also play a role. Things like electrical soldering work require you to be a lot closer to the project then wood working. The simple solution to this is to ...


9

There is a large body of information about what size furniture and tools should be. The field concerning sizing furniture to individuals and populations is called Anthropometrics and information about safety and ease of use is called Ergonomics. If you are building your own workbench for your own use, then you should size it to yourself unless you expect ...


8

You need to have a graspable (grippable) handrail... in other words something that you can get your hand around and hold onto if you fall off the steps. The 2x6 is too big for your hand to grab around and does not qualify. Standard handrail brackets usually look something like this: Also see this article (Deck Stair Handrails) for a picture of a ...


7

I used to have a pre-made triangle that was made from three lengths of string and three washers, we put a blue one at the 90. It was built using an isosceles triangle instead of a 3/4/5... for this reason I'll warn you that it's easier to build it using metric measurements. You'll also want to make sure the line you're using does NOT have a lot of stretch in ...


7

Your house is more than likely Balloon Framed. Stick and Platform framing hadn't come into being in 1900. In a balloon-framed house, the studs you see in the basement run all the way up to the roof. The filler material is a concrete mixture that was used as a partial fireblock and also to hold the spacing of the studs. You can put a hole through the ...


6

You'd need to get an engineer to look at it first. The biggest problems I can think of are structural -- even if the house is pier and beam, you'd need to move piers out. If it's not, you would need to dig out a new foundation. Then you have to figure out if the overhang is actually appropriate as a roof over indoor space, that moving the wall won't ...


6

They are still working in compression - the only difference is the extra weight of the base, which hopefully is negligible compared to the load you are lifting. Edit: Assuming you have a dual acting system - where hydraulic fluid pushes against either side of the piston (rather than just an air jack where atmospheric pressure pushes it back) then there is ...


6

As a former construction estimator, I would suggest that you get in touch with the contractor sales department at a building supplies store in the area in which you're considering building. Quite often the estimators there will have a ballpark "per-square-foot" price for materials, and may have an idea of a ballpark price for labour, too. They can probably ...


6

If in doubt, don't. It might be worth paying a structural engineer to take a look and let you know if it's safe to remove a wall. Depending on the layout and age of the house, it may not be possible to know without doing some destruction down to the studs to see for sure.


6

It occurred to me that this project might benefit from a single piece stone cap and eliminate lintel altogether. You could incorporate a bit of slope and weather proof the structure. A stone supply house could fashion it out of limestone. More traditional lintel: This window drawing is pretty analogous to a mailbox opening: You are probably building a ...


5

There isn't enough information in that sketch to verify calculations (for instance, we have no idea what's on the floor above), but here are some reactions: Removing 60cm of support may be significant, depending on how much load that wall was carrying. If the arch is structural, removing it requires additional support. Your existing building may not be ...


5

Building parts, building tools, building techniques, and building skills are all based on square walls. With building parts, you have things like bricks with 4 sides, wood sheathing with straight edges, not to mention studs, drywall, and most other building materials with factory edges. With tools, framing squares, levels, speed squares, and corner tools for ...


4

My first thought would be to build the deck in individual 4x8 sections. So you build a frame out of 2x4's or 2x6's with one sheet of plywood on top and the insulation pre-installed between the framing members. You would then set up your concrete piers and beams that would support the sections. If you use 2x4 framing for the pre-built sections, you would ...


4

If you are dealing with hydraulics there is always a chance of leakage with time or catastrophic failure. For this reason I would suggest the following: You should have a back up for holding the load in place if the hydraulics fail. This is quite often a simple pin that locks the piston in place in specialised systems but provided it is done adequately ...


4

Here would be my basic approach (Mechanical Engineer here, Statics TA for 4 semesters): For starters, you could figure out the weight of the mattress and box spring plus the weight of two people lying on it (W). Add in a safety factor (at a minimum 2, ideally a bit more) - remember, an uneven or dynamic loading will apply significantly higher stresses to ...


4

You also want to ventilate the attic space. If there is a space between the ceiling and the roof, its going to get pretty hot in there. In our house it can get above 190 °F. You can get gable mounted fans that suck in air from outside (at 100 °F, or what ever temperature it is outside) and force the 190 °F air out of the attic. Another thing ...


4

Couple possibilities I can think of (hard to tell without looking at a floor plan): Floor was built over a larger area and then covered over. Landing or base of the stairs was moved, possibly during early construction. Floor or landing was intentionally extended to provide a shelf for storage. Joists are continuing to a load bearing structure (wall of the ...


4

The concrete itself should be fine. Make sure water doesn't have anywhere it can pool, since standing water, concrete, and freezing temperatures can lead to cracking. I would protect any metal brackets or bolts intended to secure the framing to the foundation. And I would also protect any plumbing coming through the foundation. Where the water line is ...


4

Once you have corrected your axis of rotation it should be obvious that the idea to lengthen the "clip" will not change anything with regard to the force required to raise the flap. Actually it could make things worse if the longer clip added more weight to the whole assembly. The force needed to raise the flap is measured in some units like foot-pounds ...


3

I used plans purchased from The Garden Coop. They're not that expensive and included a complete parts list to get started. The egg doors are part of the plan, but the removable tray is not. I'm an amateur at this, and yet I found the plans well-explained and simple enough to make some modifications along the way without much trouble.


3

Back Yard Chickens has lots of different designs, with instructions on how to build them. While you're there, you can even get some recipes for cooking your chickens (if you ever get tired of taking care of them, or get really hard up for cash).


3

( Note: I see your comment that this is no longer an issue, but since the question is still opened and unanswered, I'll put something down here to get it off of our list and possibly help someone else with a similar issue. ) First things first, Tester is right, don't pay the contractor until you get the permit, and force them to fix their mistakes at their ...


3

I would love to see a pic of the deck and roof coverage. Any time you expand the footprint of a house, then permits will be required. In some areas, you may need an engineer stamp on some plans, but in most areas a simple floor plan and a competent building contractor will be what you need. Again, depending on where you live, the price per square foot is ...


3

putting the legs on the inside will induce a shearing load on the connection. A better connection would be having the wood frame rest on the leg (with a notch). You also need to account for the needed strength in the corners so everything stays square. or you can do a google search on bed plans and get a tried and tested design the first link even only ...


3

I can't speak as to how to calculate it, but from experience, 2x4s are overkill. For the beds I've seen, 1x3s slats (laid down, not vertical), with a vertical 1x4 perimeter, were sufficient unless both people weigh 300+lbs. You will want a center rail and possibly a center leg (some mattress warranties actually require one!). Reducing the span length is a ...



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