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13

Your biggest concern here is going to be the condition of the interior. If they are at all corroded or otherwise rough on the inside they run the risk of damaging the insulation, which can lead to an eventual short and/or electrification of the pipes. Protecting the wire where it enters and exits the pipe is also a concern. Basically I think you could do ...


9

Now you've learned the hard way, the same way the rest of us learned, why they say "measure twice." A spade bit may work for this trick, but an auger bit may be easier to control. First, use the bit to cut a hole in center of some scrap wood. A piece of plywood that's 4"x6" would work well, and a 2x4 that's 6-8" long would also work. You need a few inches ...


9

How about an EMT slip on bushing? This about explains it all. Catalog Page EDIT: I think there are three goals here - clamp the NM cable in place, protect the cable from the sharp edge of the EMT, and secure the EMT to the jbox on one end. I showed you how to protect the romex coming out of the EMT. To secure the NM cable in place, where you want to ...


8

Running conduit now is definitely cheaper than fishing behind drywall later. It requires a lot of holes in drywall to fish wires, and then each hole needs to be patched, painted, etc. It's also a difficult and potentially time-consuming job, as existing wiring, plumbing, etc gets in the way. It also depends on how much conduit you're installing of course - ...


7

For the duct work, since we don't know how many cables you are talking about, I suggest ENT (Electrical Non-Metallic Tubing). It is flexible, corrugated and comes in a range of sizes, same as PVC. You can even use PVC connectors on ENT if in a bind. For termination, you can either use a box / terminating structured media center or make your own with a ...


6

There is a widespread belief that the NEC does not allow NM-cable in conduit, but does allow THHN (the individual wires). This belief is incorrect. However, it is for some reason lesser-known that NM-cable cannot be used in outdoor conduit at all, stripped or otherwise. So, the answer to your question is: stripping is a common but misguided (unnecessary) ...


5

The IRC or the NEC doesn't apply here, common sense does. What you need to do is apply a paintable silicone acrylic or silicone caulk to the back of the box and around the entry hole before you screw the box to the wall. There should be holes inside the box or external ears for mounting. The idea is to stop water from going behind the box and around the ...


5

You should have no problem using Schedule 80 PVC conduit. It's easy to work with, and you can get pre-formed 90's for any corners (so you won't need a pipe bender). You might be able to get away with Schedule 40, but since it will be exposed (and in a work area where it could get smashed with a wayward piece of lumber) I would go with Schedule 80. Just ...


5

Exposed ground wires are normal. In the last year I've seen a main panel and 2 subpanels approved with exposed ground wires. They were 6ga stranded.


5

I guess a big question is: do you need to conform to code? If you have a building permit out, the inspector may want to see your wiring before you cover it. Your pipe may violate code, and the inspector won't approve the work. Are you going to sell this house someday, with the wires running into the pipes visible? If so, the buyer's building inspector will ...


5

There are collar boxes available that have conduit KO's (knockouts). Just install one on top of the existing device box and run your conduit. This one is even better as it has more volume: Brand: Steel City, Part number:531511234UB Here is a raised device cover to be used with the 4x4 box shown. They can be had in any number of different ...


4

Your local hardware store should have a selection of conduit that's suitable. Generally any PVC should be OK as it's designed to survive the weather, and does so very well. I used 15mm, but I wasn't running coax - just data cables. An SC fiber connector would not fit through a 15mm conduit, so you'll either have to get a larger conduit than this or get it ...


4

HDMI and speaker wire are basically signal wires, not power wires. Both the voltage and amperage is very low. Indoors it is safe to run these hidden or exposed without channel or conduit if they are properly rated. See this Q&A for a discussion of proper rating. When channel or conduit is used, it is either for convenience in handling, and to keep the ...


4

I see 3 problems: The gap, as you noticed. One of the conductors' insulation is damaged (I think - it's not obvious from the picture) That's EMT, which is not a good choice for burial. The couplings are not strong enough (as you can see) and they're not waterproof. The tubing can rust away below ground. It is technically allowed, though, per NEC 358.10. ...


4

What you're calling outdoor Romex is actually called type UF (underground feeder) cable, it resembles Romex, but it's not. UF cable is THHN conductors plus a ground encased completely in PVC. Romex is a brand name for non-metallic paper bonded cable (NM-B, as printed on the jacket) with a PVC jacket. This is why type UF is suitable for burying and wet ...


4

I'm guessing it's plumbing, not conduit. Unless you actually see wires running through the tubing, I'm not convinced it's conduit. In the US only certain types of conduit are listed for use, and I'm sure they are similar in Canada. Copper is not among those listed, so it's not likely it would be approved by an inspector. In a comment you mentioned that the ...


3

Yes, it is a safety issue, wiring should always be covered by something, anywhere. The connection should be water tight, the connector used is not. Electric proof is not an issue, that is the job of the insulation of the wires. Cold resistant is not an issue for the wiring, but could be an issue if the cold made some protective material brittle. Protection ...


3

(I am not an electrician) The purpose of the ground wire is to provide a clear path of least resistance for electricity to follow in the event of a short, so that instead of going through your body, it goes to the ground. Strictly speaking, exposed ground within a wall isn't wrong - for instance if you use armored cable, often the armor not only acts as ...


3

Insulation is helpful even if it's not perfect. Ideally, you should cover the attic floor completely, without reducing airflow between any vents (soffit, ridge, gable, roof, whatever). Whether a specific area is important to insulate depends on your house, but as a rule, you should aim to insulate any walls/ceilings between living space and unconditioned ...


3

I personally can not advocate running (mostly empty) conduit all over your unfinished house. The costs will add up to hundreds and hundreds of dollars, and could add several man days of labor. Then, when you need a new outlet, what are the odds that there will be conduit in the spot that you need it? What do you do if there isn't? Then you're back at the ...


3

I agree with a lot of what gregmac is saying. My real question to you is what kind of wiring are you really thinking about for the future? Keep in mind that the trends are moving quickly to wireless technology and simple modulated (multiplexed) digital signals over existing conventional wiring systems. Today cat5 is used a lot, but I can see it giving way ...


3

EMT (electrical metal tubing) is your best bet for outdoor cabling and it is also designed to be pliable for directional installation. You can buy a pipe bender that will allow you to angle it in any direction to make creating your path easy. EMT is what I've used in office buildings, retail stores and central offices and various other environments for ...


3

You can go the caulking route, but I personally like a putty like material called duct seal for sealing many of my protrusions (click the picture for the product link): When you work it in, leave a lot of it around the conduit outside of the wall so that when you reattach the box to the house, it squeezes the material to create a weather tight seal. ...


3

I would want a good separation between the electrical, water, gas, and any other conduits. I doubt you'd be able to push a water line through the conduits anyway unless they are using plastic pipe for the main, and even then it would be a challenge. In terms of what you may need in the future, here we have electrical, water/sewer, gas, phone (copper and ...


3

You piqued my interest and I have a screwdriver. Here's how a professional electrician in the UK made joins in wiring in my office building constructed 2001 (so as per regulations at that date). Not all junctions contain joins. Some do. So yes, use terminal strips (blocks) like these - all DIY stores have them, some ironmongers and larger supermarkets ...


3

Since @Tim's post didn't make this clear: under the current code, you are not allowed to run NM-B wire outside, even through a conduit. I don't have the NEC to verify this; I read it in this book (pg 155, "Wiring Outside"): Under the 2008 code, you must use UF cable anytime NM-style cable (even in conduit) exits the side of the house. That is, you are ...


3

Unless it is extremely thick co-ax, like RG-35, there should be plenty of room to slide the nylon fish tape from outside along the stuck co-ax. Probably the wire you wrapped around it for attaching to the fish has formed a barb—how apropos for a fish! :-) Push the fish past the end of the co-ax a little bit (or as far in as it will go), and then ...


3

You could use "smurf tube" (Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing) or rigid PVC to have a non-conductive conduit. Be sure to bond any metallic conduit that is separated by such non-metallic conduit, or just use nonmetallic the whole way with ground wires. I suspect you are not supposed to contact the K&T in any case and should be securing the wires or conduit to ...


3

Cut open the drywall. You can then use a piece of plywood to cover the hole so that it's easier to remove in the future. Sounds like too much work. First step, make sure they are GFCI protected. If you don't know if they are GFCI protected, you can get a GFCI outlet tested from the hardware store. And while you're there, get outdoor box covers. Then you can ...


3

Void spaces are frequently used for utilities, it could be accumulated condensation. Leave it be and see if more water comes out to find out if it's an active leak. I hope you did not drill through an HVAC line or drain line.



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