Hot answers tagged concrete
Quick answer.... NO. You will need to get bits designed for concrete. Concrete is very abrasive and will destroy a wood bit in microseconds and not do much of anything to the concrete.
While that might work, I doubt your HOA would allow grooving the ceiling because the concrete is part of the common structure. Instead, install flat conduit. Or flatwire. Or maybe you might like a beam which could conceal a wire.
You might want to contract a civil engineer to help keep the concrete people honest. If your engineer provides them with mix specification and makes test cylinders from each load, that should keep them on their toes (even if you don't follow though with testing the cylinders - they don't know if you will or you won't, so they have to assume you will - which ...
Another alternative would be to fur out the ceiling and install a drywall ceiling on top of your existing ceiling. This would give you an area to run new, concealed wiring. Another benefit to this is that you wouldn't need to scrape the existing ceiling which can be really messy (not to mention a lot of work), and you will need to mud/tape and paint ...
None. The concrete should slope away from home. If you have the option to go an inch down then fine so you don't mess up the stucco while pouring.
It works for pole barns, it will work for your deck. However, be careful of the quality and/or treatment of your PT lumber - I've seen pressure treated lumber rot off in the ground despite being pressure treated. I think the thicker sections (such as 6x6) are rather difficult to get throughly treated all the way through. I've seen some pole barns use 3 2x6 ...
A slide hammer would be the most likely to work in that case. Drill a hole in the broken part, screw in the tip of a slide hammer, hammer it up and out. Using a penetrating lubricant and a screw extractor to get the broken threaded part (only) out would be an alternate approach. Be sure to apply anti-seize to the threads of all the ones that still work, ...
One solution, if you have some space to work with at the foot of the concrete steps, is to add some new steps constructed with pressure treated lumber. Here is an example to convey the idea. The unevenly spaced original steps are replaced with a new set that are evenly spaced from the ground level up to the top. In this example I show the use of 2x12 ...
You can always use a masonry grinding wheel and a level, but be warned, there will be a LOT of dust! You'll want to seal off the room from the rest of the house, open the windows, put fans in the windows, wear goggles and a respirator. They sell shrouds that you can hook up a shop vac to the grinder to get a good bit of the dust, but it's still bad. And at ...
When you have floor drains, the installer should have established a fairly smooth slope toward those drains into the floor as part of the process of "floating" (levelling and smoothing) the surface of the concrete. This is slightly annoying but not difficult -- I've done it for summer-camp shower houses, as a mostly-untrained volunteer -- so a pro should ...
Yes I'm afraid concrete anchors are not appropriate for wood studs. Sleeve anchors rely on being able to press against the sides of their hole with enough pressure to counter act the pull-out weight of the load they're bearing. If the sides of the hole are somewhat squishy (like soft pine is) the anchor will probably fail. You can: Move the unit slightly ...
This simplest tile transition is the integral metal edge. It comes in quite a few profiles, some of which can handle a small amount of elevation change. If you need something more elaborate I'd really need more details and hopefully some pictures.
In the installation instructions for water heaters that I could find, they all say that this "parking block" is required. Installation, Operation, AND service Manual for Residential Storage Type Gas Water Heaters THIS WATER HEATER MUST BE LOCATED OR PROTECTED TO AVOID PHYSICAL DAMAGE BY VEHICLES OR FLOODING. Installation Instructions and Use ...
Being Brass, the anchor is nice and easy to drill, Just get a Steel drill and slowly drill into the remaining anchor. once you have drilled through 90% of the brass, take a long nose pliers and "implode" the rest of the material into itself.
If you can dig down 4 feet, it's really easy to put a sonotube down and fill it with concrete and put the 6x6 (you might only need 4x4...depends on deck dimensions) on that. source: that's what I did.
The classic way to get a great finish on a concrete tabletop with minimal tooling is to pour it (upside down) on a glass sheet. If your table is smaller than a patio door, you can generally find a free patio door that someone has removed if you look for a while on craigslist or other classified ad sources, or check at the local recycling center. The main ...
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