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4

Best advice is to dig the whole thing down to the level below frost line. It is also the standard practice to put down a bed of gravel at the bottom and lay in a reinforced concrete footing that lies completely below the frost line and is wider that the fence support wall. Say 12 inches wide. This gives the poured wall structure something solid to sit on ...


3

When concrete is mixed it has air trapped in the mix. When pouring walls we use vibrators to get the air out. With smaller pours hitting the forms with a hammer helps.


2

Assuming that this is a new 4 inches of floor on a ground level structure... No this is definitely not ok. Greenboard is mold resistant. It is, however, still just gypsum with paper over it. Neither is using pressure treated wood as a barrier. Why? Concrete wicks water. Any water near the area will be distributed to be brought into direct contact with ...


2

Those "straight lines" are control joints (as opposed to expansion joints). The contractor knows that concrete slabs invariably crack, and they install those to make the cracks less conspicuous. That said, you do seem to have more cracks than I'd have expected, and they appear more open than is typical. The one is oddly close to the exterior wall. I'd ask ...


2

Insects are incapable of "eating" concrete, but they do tend to exploit weak or damaged concrete to access something more appealing, such as a food source or nesting site. It only takes a small crack in an otherwise secure concrete foundation to let termites in. Poured concrete is the most reliable, but if you have a block foundation, the mortar is ...


2

If you don't simply have the concrete company screed it for you (a good idea), hire a helper for an hour or two so you can screed sensibly from outside the forms. The difference between you walking down the middle of the slab and trying to fill your footsteps and them doing that is that they have some experience with filling footsteps when they HAVE to walk ...


1

I'd remove the wooden post, do a full repair of the broken step, and install a bolt-on steel or aluminum post with a vinyl cover on the step below. Of course, this requires a rebuild of your rail assembly to extend it, but it should be full-length anyway.


1

You're a metal worker? How about stainless? This DiY Headstone suggests high strength mortar mix. You should use colorant to achieve your final color instead of attempting to stain it afterwards, which would only be skin deep. However, this is why you use granite: I'd suggest Uba Tuba for its flakes: Truly though, what I'd recommend, is having a ...


1

Concrete pigments are available. But for what I think you are wanting, you would start by grinding/sanding the block smooth, then painting it (black) with an epoxy base coat, then sprinkling it with decorative metallic/colored flakes (the loose fines are cleaned off), and then a clear epoxy top coat is layed over it. Here's a youtube video for this ...


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I would not put my faith in a regular toggle bolt. The small bend pin that acts as a hinge for the wing to pivot on and are critical for its integrity seem weak at best. I would rely on it for shear strength rather than tension. Here is what I would use instead...


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CLR is what you're looking for. I had a similar problem as you (I was cutting metal on my driveway and did not sweep up the fines that night...Rusted the next day!) and it worked like a charm. It comes in a grey bottle with a multicoloured label. Dilute using the measurements on the bottle, and scrub hard with a stiff bristled broom. Rinse well. This ...


1

I have found liquid nails on a few jobs in the past that did appear to work but is not code in my area. The 2x4 placed flat on the wall only needs an inch and a half to be code. The minimum wall thickness for a single story here is 6" and 8-12" on taller structures. Most modern basements were poured with forms that have straps or snap pins holding the forms ...


1

As long as the total contact area of the footings in consideration of the load bearing capacity of your soil exceeds the total dead & live load of the patio, then it won't settle into the ground. As long as the footings are below the frost line, they themselves will not frost heave. However - if the slab is still in contact with the ground, then it ...


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In case anyone is interested here are the finished steps. The contractor was able to reinstall the existing hand rails. They are a little corroded but a coworker suggested using marine jelly to remove the rust then we should be able to paint them. The contractor needed three days to remove the old steps and install the new steps. We paid an extra $500 for ...



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