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3

You have got your work cut out for you if you plan to do this by hand. I really would have you consider renting or hiring a backhoe or mini excavator to do this. If you feel you really need to do this by hand, you will need to get at the minimum, an electric demolition hammer, at the most an air compressor and jack hammer. Break the concrete down about 6 to ...


3

If they had a 32' play structure resting on top of them and they had 6" U brackets I'm guessing the footings are at least a foot in diameter? Maybe more? Keep in mind that even if you could dig the entire thing out of the ground it's going to weigh hundreds of pounds. Unless you have some heavy equipment to pull them out you're going to have some trouble ...


3

Depends on where the natural water table is and how much pressure it can put on the pool (which is a function of the porosity of the earth immediately surrounding the pool). If you know the bottom is above the water table you can leave it empty until the ground freezes. Otherwise you're counting on the water table level and surrounding soil to not exceed ...


2

Unless the existing window is leaking, the sole criterion for judging better and worse options in this case is the likelihood of future bulk water infiltration. The current installation is performing functionally and aesthetically as part of the building envelope. Breaching and patching the envelope is not a repair, and at best will only perform equally ...


2

There's no problem per-se with covering it up. However, with a windows there's lots of chances there for leaks. And since you can't see the window from the outside and it will be behind a wall inside, you probably won't be able to see any evidence of damage or leaks until it's too late and caused significant damage to your new walls and flooring. Based on ...


2

Would this work? Or is this too close to other buildings?


2

It depends on the composition of the concrete mix, water content, and temperature. Generally, concrete sets in 24 to 48 hours allowing for you to walk on it and partially cured within a week (keep the cement free and clear of heavy equipment during this period) at which you can continue building/construction. Most mixes fully cures at 28 days. Refer to the ...


2

Outdoor carpet ~$6 a square yard. Most people think of the good ol' green stuff, but there are many styles to choose from nowadays.


1

Treat it like you would ammunition. If there's no corrosion, they're probably fine. If you start using it and you get misfires, dispose of it.


1

While their power may be degraded, using them is not likely to be dangerous. The barrel of the nail gun is what really contains the blast.


1

You should be able (with a cheap metal-drilling bit you don't love much) to drill those out and try again. Drill them out, use a correctly-sized masonry bit to drill the holes larger, vacuum all the dust out of the holes, and set new anchors. Perhaps set the anchors a bit deeper to compensate for the slight spalling at the surface here. You can use ...


1

The concrete looks fine, other than a little surface damage (and obviously the holes themselves). I would drill them out, then fill the holes and damaged area with hydraulic cement. Make sure you use the drill bit specified by the anchor manufacturer next time. These shouldn't be that difficult to insert into holes.


1

Use wood to cover the end of the gap, mix cement and pour it in.


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I have used Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield on a few concrete applications and I have to say it may be the "cheap"/non-fancy alternative but it has handled soaking into the concrete (instead of other paints that only sat on top of concrete) to provide a little more protection. I have bought the two part epoxy speckle kits and have never been happy after a few ...



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