Tag Info

New answers tagged

2

First, you can only connect one wire to a screw. If you need to connect multiple, then you create a pigtail by cutting a short piece of wire and attaching one end to the screw, and the other end is connected to the other wires with a wire nut. Second, you need to figure out which cable provides the power to the box. Most likely it is the cable without the ...


0

The answer to question 2 is that you are right to not feel comfortable about doing that. Get a short bit of wire, twist one end of it together with the other 3 wires together, and put the open end under the screw. Known as a 'pigtail' among electricians.


0

Lights flicker when the voltage drops. When voltage drops, current goes up. Hopefully the lights, only flicker when you turn something on. The rule of thumb for calculating loads is 1.5 'unit' for a receptacle, 1 for a light, and rated load for anything that is hard wired, you want to units to be less than 80% of the breaker current rating. So you want a ...


4

10 gauge wire can have a 30 amp breaker under the current National Electric Code. (and past ones too). Most places use the NEC, but some make changes. I do not have my book right here, but if needed I can get you the exact section in the code for that data. I am 'sure' he carries a current copy of the NEC with him, for reference. Aloysius is also ...


4

There are a couple of possibilities for how this could happen, but the simplest theory is that you failed to reconnect the wire feeding those outlets to the LOAD side terminals on the GFCIs. Turn the power off to the kitchen circuits and check in the GFCI-containing boxes for loose/unconnected wires. If you don't find anything in there, there are three ...


0

Answering the original question: the off-the-shelf answer a locksmith would give you is probably an electric strike or electric deadbolt, of the same sort used on doors. A maker would probably suggest just using a spring-loaded solenoid directly as the latch. (That's what's going on inside the electric strike, though with some mechanical engineering ...


0

I also highly recommend the Tot Locks (currently sold by Safety 1st, I think) . That's a magnet-operated latch, sold for childproofing but useful for other purposes too. It's just plastic so it can be forced, but it's strong enough to keep kids out until they're old enough to understand magnets and action-at-a-distance, and strong enough to constitute a Very ...


2

Well, it's not electrical engineering just because it's magnets. I suppose an active version could be made, but there is this option: It doesn't appear to be available for purchase, but it doesn't look difficult to build.



Top 50 recent answers are included