Tag Info

New answers tagged

0

Yes, however that's only half the problem. The other being that your lights are flickering. Somewhere, one or more of the 30 plus connections on that over-used circuit is bad, if you're lucky you just have one pissed-off breaker. If your lights still randomly flicker after you've swapped it out, I'd suspect an intermittent contact to ground. Perhaps a bad ...


1

If the breaker is tripping then either the breaker is faulty or the load is higher than the rated load of the breaker. The safe assumption is that the safety system is working correctly and the load really is too high. To do more research I would consider getting a load monitor -- Kill-A-Watt, for example -- and use it to see how much current each of those ...


0

Make sure the breaker does fire at 20A. Then, if it never fires on that circuit, there is no loading problem. If there are multiple connections at the breaker then there is a problem. If the rating of the various wires going to the various outlets is wrong then there is a problem. But don't fix it if it ain't broke. You could open a huge can of worms.


0

That's certainly not to code. If its an older building then it was most likely fine at the time it was built. If it's a newer building...say 1980's or newer then it was not done to code. Even if the Electrical Service was redone or a remodel it would have been made to be brought up to code. If you are the homeowner you're pretty much on your own...if you ...


1

Whether or not that's too much depends on what is plugged into the outlets, how often each item is used, and how many items are used together. That seems like far too many things on one breaker to me. If I was wiring that, I would not have done it that way. Now that it's already like that, fixing it is most likely a big chore. If, and that's a big, unlikely ...


0

What you're describing is called "scene lighting" and is customarily achieved using automation modules either at the switches or fixtures. Each of the four configurations you have shown would be its own scene, and you would program each automation module to respond as either on or off when each scene is selected. I have use Insteon automation modules for ...


0

If you use low-voltage DC lighting (e.g. halogen), you can use the switch to switch DC power and use suitably rated diodes to provide power to the corner bulbs. You'd have to check the wiring in the walls can carry the required currents and take great care to isolate the DC side from AC.


0

You have not used switch n. 3 A better approach would be use it and simplify circuit logic: Using 3rd switch Not using 3rd switch If you must not use 3rd switch, use Boolean logic (more switches will be necessary). Boolean logic... can be achieved using Protoboard


1

Should be doable with relay logic. Switch one powers the center top light and the coils of two relays that do the top left and right corners. Switch 2 powers the left-center 2 lights and the coils of two DIFFERENT relays that power the top and bottom left corners. Switch 3 (once you correct your diagram per comments) powers the bottom center light and the ...


3

The problem is, whenever you turn one set of lights on, power can go through that shared light into the other circuit. So each switch controls all lights. While it -might- be possible to make 2 light groups (1 common light) work the way you want with two 4-way switches back-wired through each other, you're asking for something even more complicated. Each ...



Top 50 recent answers are included