Hot answers tagged

7

REPLACE THIS PANEL NOW Your panel almost certainly is suffering from breaker-to-busbar contact damage, rendering it a ticking incendiary device. See this answer for the gory details on just what is wrong with FPE's "breakers". If you post a picture of your panel (dead front off), I can determine if you can have your electrician install one of the Eaton ...


7

i am not an electrician but I do know federal pacific went out of business years ago after it was found that their boxes were responsible for a number of fires. Change the entire panel just to be safe. keeping the federal pacific panel is asking for a trouble.


6

Friedo's answer is essentially correct regarding the multi wire branch circuit except if these are 15 amp circuits they could not be used to feed the kitchen receptacles. Those are required to be 20 amp circuits. The code requires multi-wire branch circuits to be fed with either a multi-pole breaker or two breakers tied together with an approved handle tie. ...


5

The short answer is that the breaker protects the wire (otherwise, heat and fire can result). You can put a 20A breaker on a circuit if all the wire on the circuit is #12. If any of the wire is #14 you can put a 15A breaker on it. If any of the wire in the circuit is smaller than #14, then you cannot put a 15A breaker on it.


5

It's either a loose connection, a bad switch, or a poltergeist. Turn power off to the circuit. Verify power is off. Remove the cover plate from each switch. Remove the screws holding the switches to the box (should be two, one top, one bottom). Pull the switches out a bit. Inspect the wiring and connections, looking for loose wires, charred/burnt/melted ...


5

My guess is these might be multiwire branch circuits for use in kitchen receptacles. In this type of circuit, the two hot wires (180 degrees apart in phase) are used to power different receptacles in the kitchen so high-current appliances don't all end up on the same circuit. Because they are opposite phases, they can share a neutral without fear of ...


4

10 gauge wire can have a 30 amp breaker under the current National Electric Code. (and past ones too). Most places use the NEC, but some make changes. I do not have my book right here, but if needed I can get you the exact section in the code for that data. I am 'sure' he carries a current copy of the NEC with him, for reference. Aloysius is also ...


4

There are a couple of possibilities for how this could happen, but the simplest theory is that you failed to reconnect the wire feeding those outlets to the LOAD side terminals on the GFCIs. Turn the power off to the kitchen circuits and check in the GFCI-containing boxes for loose/unconnected wires. If you don't find anything in there, there are three ...


4

It is okay to have 800 amps of breakers in a 200 amp service panel. The reason there is a main breaker (200 amp double pole) is to prevent unsafe usage. When you run out of physical space, there are several solutions: Replace some of the main panel breakers with half-widths (two breakers per slot) to create enough space for a new breaker. Install a ...


4

Update the panel, it needs it.... An electrician needs to do this. The breaker simply cannot be changed out to a higher rated breaker, the wiring has to support it too. This is what a qualified electrician can do. The electrician can tell you if it is possible for it to be done with your existing wiring.


3

You can use most types of conduit outdoors, though some will require liquidtight fittings. Cost wise, and due to the ease of use, I'd recommend schedule 80 PVC conduit. As long as you use the proper size conduit and boxes, you can indeed run all the circuits through the same conduit. If you used 14 AWG THWN conductors (15 ampere circuit), you could ...


3

Bottom line is NO, you definitely cannot do what you propose. You CANNOT parallel a circuit like this of this size. It is expressly forbidden in the NEC, and could very well be a safety hazard. If the appliance takes two separate circuits like your old one that is a different story. Do you know what size and type of wire is feeding the old 30A circuits? ...


3

The National Electrical Code defines a Multi-wire branch circuit as follows. Branch Circuit, Multiwire. A branch circuit that consists of two or more ungrounded conductors that have a voltage between them, and a grounded conductor that has equal voltage between it and each ungrounded conductor of the circuit and that is connected to the neutral or ...


3

Your question is so general that it can only be answered in generalities. Assuming you are referring to lights that are turned on at specific times, there are several methods. You can use a purely mechanical timer with cams that turn on switches that, then, turn on lights. One step up is an electrical timer run by a synchronous motor that also turns on ...


3

Aside from being a code violation of outrageous proportions, if this is 120VAC you would have the delightful condition that the light sockets were always hot/live - this can make changing a lightbulb into a shocking experience, and under the right conditions, also your last. You may also get some interesting magnetic effects from the loop wiring. Don't do ...


3

Orision, My take on this is that you understand what you want pretty well, and understand electricity only at a very surface level. That's not a great mix. My suggestion would be for you to do some googling on home automation products and see if you can come up with a way to set up a system that accomplishes this with off the shelf home automation products ...


3

You say you are replacing a 100A panel with a 200A, but the wires won't reach??? It is almost a certainty that you will need to replace the wires. It is extremely unlikely that they originally ran wire large enough for a 200A service, yet only installed a 100A panel. Also, with pretty much all new main-breaker panels, the breaker can be mounted top or ...


3

One likely reason is that the light bulbs came from a defective batch. You could try moving a known working bulb from a different location to the suspicious location to verify. Another reason is that there could be an over-voltage. If possible, use a volt meter to measure the voltage. The voltage should be somewhere between 105 and 125 V (in the united ...


3

I have recently had issues with different electrical appliances ... Having the outlets very low down must put a strain on the leads where they enter the plug. Other than that any suspected problems with the electrical supply need to be discussed with the supplier. / light bulb ... Incandescent bulbs tend to fail when there is problems with the ...


2

Well, it's not electrical engineering just because it's magnets. I suppose an active version could be made, but there is this option: It doesn't appear to be available for purchase, but it doesn't look difficult to build.


2

First, you can only connect one wire to a screw. If you need to connect multiple, then you create a pigtail by cutting a short piece of wire and attaching one end to the screw, and the other end is connected to the other wires with a wire nut. Second, you need to figure out which cable provides the power to the box. Most likely it is the cable without the ...


2

There are 60 new homes next to my house using AFCI breakers. Low power radio signals trip these breakers as some AFCI designs use a radio receiver to detect the presence of RF in the HF spectrum. For these breakers, even a kids CB walki-talkie (not FRS) can trip every breaker in the house. Load or no-load, it does not matter. The branch circuit wiring is ...


2

Do not just install a 2 pole 50 amp Breaker. First your wire would need to be rated for the correct breaker. Second if the oven is rated at FLA (Full Load Amp) not to exceed 40 amps and there was a fault, the 50 amp breaker may not trip and could start a fire or kill someone. If you can wait look at Amazon, one quick search and there it was. Also look at a ...


2

If there's no current to the fixture or switch, then the fault is upstream. The fact that it was flickering indicates a failing connection, possibly arcing somewhere, which can be a fire hazard. You should check all the junctions on this circuit from the switch back to the breaker until you locate one with a good hot, neutral, and ground connection. And then ...


2

You have a FPE panel, so why are you trying to put breakers in it? Just replace the entire panel, as the panel is telling you to...the fact you can't stick a breaker in easily should be a gigantic red flag that something is badly broken inside and you shouldn't bother trying to repair it!


2

You should check if your new panel (or return it and buy a new panel that) can have the main at the bottom. My 200 amp panel (Sq D QO - evidently "convertible") is labeled/listed for both directions. My habit-following electrician (I do many things, but hired a pro for the main service connection) was about to complicate life considerably by trying to put ...


2

In a residential load calculation, general-use receptacles are included in with the 3 volt-ampere (VA) per square foot general lighting value. In other than dwelling units, receptacles are calculated at 180 VA. If you wanted to use the 180 VA value, it would be 1.5 amperes (180VA / 120V = 1.5 A).


2

The first thing to check since this is an outdoor outlet is to see if there is a GFCI device built-in ("test" and "reset" buttons on the outlet). The GFCI may have cut power to the outlet. Sometimes several outlets are connected to a single GFCI so if there isn't one at that outlet look for others nearby. All outdoor outlets are required to have GFCI ...


2

Possibly a coincidence having 3 bulbs burn-out, but here are some suggestions. The voltage in the circuit is over the normal household 120 volts. It would be best to verify this with a voltage tester. It could be the brand of bulbs that you used. My local Ace brand light bulbs are the lowest priced bulbs on the shelf (for good reason), but they don't last ...


2

If the switches are basic (not 3-way and not having some special feature needing a neutral), you are correct. The simplest way to remove the switch and leave the outlets always live is to twist the two wires (other than the bare or green ground wire) from the switch together and cover with a wire nut. These will most likely be both black, black and red, or ...



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