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The amp rating of the receptacle and circuit do not depend on whether the receptacle is a GFCI or not: If you have a 15 amp circuit, you must have 15 amp receptacles If you have a 20 amp circuit, you can either have 20 amp receptacles, or 15 amp receptacles if there is more than one (e.g. a duplex receptacle). It's not unusual to have a 20 amp GFCI in a ...


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1) You can have a GFI receptacle on either a 15 or 20A circuit. Keep in mind, areas like kitchens, bathrooms, laundry, etc, typically require 20A circuits for receptacles. For areas like outside and garages 20A circuits are always a good idea. 2) Either. You can have a GFI receptacle and feed everything downstream of it off the LOAD terminals protecting ...


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They DO pass current through the switch and light at all times - just a few mA. The indicator is wired in parallel to the switch contacts. For most types of bulbs its not enough for the light to turn on. However with modern LED light bulbs these types of switches (as well as dimmers, and home automation switches) that dont use the neutral can cause the ...


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10 gauge wire can have a 30 amp breaker under the current National Electric Code. (and past ones too). Most places use the NEC, but some make changes. I do not have my book right here, but if needed I can get you the exact section in the code for that data. I am 'sure' he carries a current copy of the NEC with him, for reference. Aloysius is also ...


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There are a couple of possibilities for how this could happen, but the simplest theory is that you failed to reconnect the wire feeding those outlets to the LOAD side terminals on the GFCIs. Turn the power off to the kitchen circuits and check in the GFCI-containing boxes for loose/unconnected wires. If you don't find anything in there, there are three ...


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The short answer is that the breaker protects the wire (otherwise, heat and fire can result). You can put a 20A breaker on a circuit if all the wire on the circuit is #12. If any of the wire is #14 you can put a 15A breaker on it. If any of the wire in the circuit is smaller than #14, then you cannot put a 15A breaker on it.


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It is okay to have 800 amps of breakers in a 200 amp service panel. The reason there is a main breaker (200 amp double pole) is to prevent unsafe usage. When you run out of physical space, there are several solutions: Replace some of the main panel breakers with half-widths (two breakers per slot) to create enough space for a new breaker. Install a ...


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A parallel circuit is what you're referring to. In a series circuit, if one connection is broken, the entire circuit is broken.


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The shaking probably shook a wire loose besides causing a leak, or the leak flooded over a set of wires and shorted the wire to the casing. The GFCI did it's job by detecting the short to ground and shutting down the power. trying to reconnect with the fault in place will then cause the GFCI to trip again. The dryer is protected by the same GFCI so when it ...


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The problem is, whenever you turn one set of lights on, power can go through that shared light into the other circuit. So each switch controls all lights. While it -might- be possible to make 2 light groups (1 common light) work the way you want with two 4-way switches back-wired through each other, you're asking for something even more complicated. Each ...


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It sounds like you have a bad connection or a broken wire somewhere upstream of your main breaker. Assuming that the power company's test were valid, then the problem would be the wire between your main breaker and the power meter. Other possibilities are that your main breaker is bad, or that the meter, meter box, or something upstream of that is broken. ...


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It all depends on several things. What size is the circuit? What else is one it? What do the manufacturer's instructions say? Typically you'd only need a dedicated circuit for something like this if it is big enough to warrant it, or if the mfg requires it. When I say big enough I mean 50% of the circuit size since you are combining a fixed in place ...


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Orision, My take on this is that you understand what you want pretty well, and understand electricity only at a very surface level. That's not a great mix. My suggestion would be for you to do some googling on home automation products and see if you can come up with a way to set up a system that accomplishes this with off the shelf home automation products ...


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Your question is so general that it can only be answered in generalities. Assuming you are referring to lights that are turned on at specific times, there are several methods. You can use a purely mechanical timer with cams that turn on switches that, then, turn on lights. One step up is an electrical timer run by a synchronous motor that also turns on ...


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Assuming the electrical parts of the gas range are an oven lamp, igniters and some control circuitry it will not consume any significant amount of electricity. Therefore, plugging the vent fan into the same circuit should be fine. If you want a definitive answer you will need an ammeter. Good news is they are readily available for under $100. You do need an ...


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While I don't necessarily like using plumbing as an analogy for electricity, it can be helpful in this situatuon. Think of a kitchen sink as an electrical device, or load. The supply lines are "hot", while the drain is "netural". The supply lines have pressure, which forces the water out of the tap. Once at the sink, the pressure is released. The water ...


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Steven - I am also in Vancouver, and just installed a new kitchen with permits and inspections. Yes, the gas range and hood can be on the same 15A circuit, as mine are. Just be sure that the oven is also gas, and does not have any electric broiler or electric self-clean. If the rating is under 12A you are fine. If you are splicing into an existing 15A ...


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Well, it's not electrical engineering just because it's magnets. I suppose an active version could be made, but there is this option: It doesn't appear to be available for purchase, but it doesn't look difficult to build.


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First, you can only connect one wire to a screw. If you need to connect multiple, then you create a pigtail by cutting a short piece of wire and attaching one end to the screw, and the other end is connected to the other wires with a wire nut. Second, you need to figure out which cable provides the power to the box. Most likely it is the cable without the ...


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Your first picture shows a diagram on the junction box, where two screwdrivers are prying in certain spots to get it open.


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If the membrane buttons are on the circuit board, a new one might fix it. On the other hand it's an electronic device that's 19 years old. Assuming you can even get a replacement part, it will probably cost a significant percentage of just replacing the whole thing with a new unit (and typically the new unit will have a warranty period, while a replacement ...


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I would say that this is a sign the wiring itself has been damaged internally and is shorting or grounding out, which is what is causing the repetitive trips. I'd check in particular at where the wires enter the floodlight junction box -- the whack to the floodlight could have finished off abrasion-weakened wire insulation and created a short to ground.


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Code may vary where you live Yes. You are going to create a "Shared Neutral" circuit. This isn't difficult or dangerous, but you should do some labeling in the panel and the box itself. First, it looks like the receptacle is a 30A/220V grounded receptacle (the wire itself may also be 30A -typical for an electric dryer- but that doesn't matter since you ...


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Sounds to me like an open neutral. This will give you a reading of voltage (to ground or with a pen tester) but the circuit will not work. You need to check the connections at every device on the circuit.


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The dimmer is blown, trying turning off the breaker and connecting the line and load for the chandelier(bypass the dimmer), and see what happens when you turn on the breaker. Most dimmer manufacturers recommend using a toggle switch to test new light fixtures, that way if there's a short you don't kill a good dimmer.


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Wire from the panel to the closest outlet. Use Ratchet Freak's recommendation of using a GFCI since this has a potential to become a wet location. Put the GFCI at the first outlet location and wire the line/feed side of the outlet to the wire running from the panel. Add a second wire that will chain the second outlet to this outlet. On the GFCI, the ...


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Based on the description you've provided in your comment. You should be able to install a combination GFCI switch device in the first bathroom, which will provide GFCI protection to the light and the rest of the circuit. Install the GFCI switch combo as follows: All grounding conductors left off for simplicity. Make sure all devices are properly grounded. ...


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Imagine a ladder. This is a good representation of a parallel circuit. A lamp on any rung of the ladder will light but it is not required that any one of the rungs have a lamp working in order for the others to work.


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Foam board should never be exposed, it should always covered with a fire retardant layer like drywall. So if it is installed correctly, your breaker box would never come in direct contact with the XPS and you don't have a problem. If it is exposed, then you have a larger problem then just the breaker box making contact with it.



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