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8

It is generally not acceptable to have wire junctions be inaccessible. The rule of thumb is: All junctions must be in a box, but that box must be accessible - you cannot legally close a box up behind drywall. There are some limited exceptions, as noted here. You should run a new line if you don't have the slack.


5

This sounds like a rather dangerous situation. The drywall installers no doubt did not install metal straps on the studs wherever an electrical wire crossed through the stud. Most likely a drywall screw or nail has gone into the stud and entered a wire that crossed the stud in the same place. The fix for this may require a professional electrician unless ...


4

If you are showing hot on neutral this is an indication of an open neutral on the circuit with a load attached. You are reading the voltage on the neutral through the load. Find the open neutral and you'll find your solution. It could be anywhere in the circuit, from the panel through any box or outlet.


3

Like @Petey said you need a different kind of tester, and one of those plug-in testers with the 3 lights is great for receptacles. Assuming all is properly grounded the tester is capable of indicating an open neutral. I would first confirm that an open neutral condition exist before you go any farther, and then understand that the problem (the bad ...


3

Short answer: NO. Long answer: All splices must be in a junction box, and the junction box must be accessible. Caveat: There are some products that can be used to splice behind drywall outside of a box. See this answer here: http://diy.stackexchange.com/a/4535/928 But, I think it's preferable to fish a new line.


2

Amphibient's solution is perfect. However a couple of pointers. It is both illegal and unsafe to permanently cover up a junction box by, for instance, sheet rocking over it. This can cause endless problems if a wiring problem requires troubleshooting and if something should go wrong you might end up with a fire. Also the code requires a receptacle every ...


2

Many switches that need a neutral have equivalent versions from other brands that do not need a neutral. You may be able to find a switch that has the functionality you want without doing additional wiring. While current code requires a neutral at switches, you are allowed to replace existing switches without rewiring if the neutral is not present. If that ...


2

You are not using a "tester". You are using a voltage sensor. Big difference. You are getting a voltage reading but it's not working? This is almost certainly an open neutral on this circuit. A circuit needs both hot and neutral to work. Get yourself a real tester and test from hot to neutral and hot to ground anywhere possible. Find the open neutral and ...


2

You or your contractor have gone about this backwards. The first step is to determine your electrical requirements, including a reasonable amount of future expansion. Then you can size the wire & breaker together to meet those requirements.


1

Definitely sounds like either breakers/fuses/main power were left turned off, or he did something that caused breakers to trip or fuses to blow, or he damaged the wiring in some other way. Breaker/fuse box is the first thing to check. If that isn't it... he touched it last, he didn't get you to confirm that everything was working properly before he left, ...


1

Interference The problem could be caused by Electromagnetic interference, or an attempt to filter the interference. Older Ground-fault circuit interrupting (GFCI) devices may be more susceptible to EMI related nuisance tripping. If you have an older GFCI device, you should first try replacing the GFCI device. Some fluorescent fixtures have an EMI/RFI ...


1

The bit about the light shutting off when the GFCI trips is very important, as it tells us that the light is connected to the load side of the GFCI outlet. What this means is the outlet is also protecting the light. This is a little overkill. It may be possible to connect it to the line side of the outlet with the other power wires. This should fix your ...


1

Get a wiring tester and verify the GFCI outlet is wired correctly. Swap out he 20A AFCI breaker for a standard 15A or 20A breaker and then see if the GFCI outlet works after that. Use a multimeter at the GFCI outlet to see if the voltage is in the expected range. Post photos of wiring at all locations so we can better help you.


1

The simple answer is that the breaker is tripping because two much current is flowing through it. Here's a list of some possible causes for over-current: Faulty wiring may be partly short-circuiting Faulty appliance is drawing too much current Too many devices on that circuit, in total drawing too much power I would start by proving to yourself that ...


1

The quickest and safest may be to check the resistance of the conductors with the power off, and determine the resistance it should be based on the material, length, and cross sectional area. Testing in various locations. Of course this requires some math, and guessing about the conductor length. Another quick way is to test for voltages with the power ...


1

You only need the one set plus the switch legs, so you really have two extra sets. It's impossible to say without knowing where and what they are going to, but more than likely the circuit is simply splitting off to feed different branches of the same circuit. You can safely connect all neutrals together and all grounds together. The live conductors are ...


1

If the 2 prong receptacles are existing receptacles, there shouldn't be a problem. As long as you realize the 2 prong receptacles will not have a ground, and you don't replace the 2 prong receptacles with 3 prong receptacles.


1

Given that you state that "no power flows to the room" when you use a normal breaker, the most likely explanation is either that there is a short/arc somewhere, or the wiring is incorrect. Shorts/arcs are not something to be messing around with. I would call in a professional.


1

1(A) In the US most general lighting circuits are rated for 15 amperes, though general receptacle outlets are typically either 15 or 20 amperes. 1(B) Calculating the wattage a circuit can safely supply is done using a simple formula. Voltage * Current * Safety Factor = Wattage 80% is a common safety factor used to insure circuits are not constantly ...



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