Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

14

Not an uncommon problem. I have had a lot of problems with GFI's the last few years myself. There are a few likely causes: A fault still exists and will not allow the GFI to reset. The GFI tripped due to an overload and the differential circuit was damaged, thus the outlet is now toast. This seems to be a common complaint with standard 15 amp GFIC's. they ...


8

It is generally not acceptable to have wire junctions be inaccessible. The rule of thumb is: All junctions must be in a box, but that box must be accessible - you cannot legally close a box up behind drywall. There are some limited exceptions, as noted here. You should run a new line if you don't have the slack.


7

To directly answer your question about the unused switch in your kitchen, you have to check a couple of things before you install a receptacle in it's place: Is there a source voltage feed in the box? If there is only one cable entering the box and both the black and white conductors are connected to the switch(es), then the voltage feed is coming through ...


7

A GFCI is a good idea because of the location of the outlet. However, I don't think that a GFCI that can simultaneously protect two circuits even exists (and I doubt one would fit into a single-gang box if it did exist), so I believe you have a couple of options: Install GFCI breakers on the dishwasher and disposal circuits, and use a regular outlet under ...


6

It sounds you caused a short circuit by wiring the hot and neutral together. You created a circuit with no electrical resistance so the breaker pops to prevent you from melting the wires and burning down your house. Cap each wire that you removed separately unless they were already joined together. Once the outlet is removed and everything is safely capped ...


6

I will echo TomG's sentiment: Yikes! By using the BX as the "neutral/ground" (really it's just the neutral; a three-prong 220v plug is considered ungrounded regardless of the continuity that should exist between neutral and ground), whenever the A/C is on, the armor of the cable is energized. It will have a lower voltage than the "hot" because the A/C is ...


5

My guess is that it stands for Uniform Fire Code Listed and means that all components in the circuit have been tested to conform to the Uniform Fire Code, i.e. NFPA 1. (I'm extrapolating from a UL or CULUS listing meaning that a product has been tested to the appropriate UL standard.) Since the National Electrical Code is part of the NFPA standards, that ...


5

Yikes! I am not an electrician, but I would run new 10/3 BX. Your jury-rigged system might work, but it has the capacity to electrocute someone, or maybe start a fire, if anything goes wrong. Possible issues include the BX armor being hot if a fault somehow occurs where it's connected to the neutral bus or overloading one of the hot wires if one of ...


5

The basic problem is that the occupancy switch that you chose to purchase is one designed to be able to work in series with the load attached to it. If the attached load is too small (too low of wattage) the switch assembly does not get enough power to operate correctly. For the particular model you have this is on the order of 40 to 50 watts of minimum ...


5

If you're referring to the circuit breaker switch being in the middle after it's been tripped, that's just the "tripped" position. As far as I know it doesn't tell you anything about the reason. You have arc fault breakers, which means the breaker was tripped because: there was too much current flowing there was an arc fault. Based on the relatively low ...


5

This sounds like a rather dangerous situation. The drywall installers no doubt did not install metal straps on the studs wherever an electrical wire crossed through the stud. Most likely a drywall screw or nail has gone into the stud and entered a wire that crossed the stud in the same place. The fix for this may require a professional electrician unless ...


4

You simply need to convert the outlet into a junction box: Flip the circuit breaker off Unscrew the hots, neutrals, and ground from the outlet and remove the outlet Splice the hot, neutral, and ground from both sides (charge and load) and put wire nuts on Cover the box with a junction box lid Flip the circuit back on That way the receptacle continues ...


4

Replace Capacitors in LCD TV Power Supply I would suspect that the problem is within the LCD TV. The power supplies inside LCD TVs and LCD monitors use cheap electrolytic capacitors that go bad and cause problems with the device. Your symptoms are representative of the TV power supply just starting to go bad. Small amounts of transient noise on the AC power ...


4

Important factor here: your photo shows that you have an arc-fault circuit interrupter. That means that there's a second condition besides total amperage that can trip the circuit. Particularly if this happened at the same time that a light burned out or you turned one on / off, the arc sensor could trip the breaker. A breaker that is halfway between the on ...


4

If you are showing hot on neutral this is an indication of an open neutral on the circuit with a load attached. You are reading the voltage on the neutral through the load. Find the open neutral and you'll find your solution. It could be anywhere in the circuit, from the panel through any box or outlet.


3

Simple answer to your question is: All load fixtures must be wired in parallel, never in series. This means you need to feed each fixture with 120vac. You can use a single run of wire, but the feed to the next fixture must be wired so that the hot and neutral are always connected uninterrupted to each fixture. Practically speaking, the black hot wire coming ...


3

'Heat Trace' is a subject of replenishing the rate of 'Heat Loss' taking place from the hot surfaces to be kept heated for the specific needs at required temperatures. These heat loss surfaces are generally 'thermally insulated' to reduce the rate of heat loss taking place, and this prevents around 80% to 85% heat loss rate occurring. 'Heat Trace' function ...


3

There are 2 situations where the main breaker could trip before the branch breakers: As others have mentioned, the main is sized less than the sum of the branches; if all the branches pull heavy loads, you can exceed the main without exceeding the branches, and the main will trip. If this is the cause, you can; Accept the overload, and be ready to flip ...


3

The two branch circuit breakers will trip if the load on their protected circuit is greater than 32 amperes, and 25 amperes respectively. However, since the main breaker trips at 40 amperes. If both branch circuits are pulling a full load the branch circuit breakers will not trip, but the combination of the loads will trip the main breaker (32 + 25 = 57 > 40 ...


3

Typically your master breaker is sized to be less then the sum of all of the sub breakers. The reason for this is in a typical house, you don't pull the maximum current from all branches at once. However, this setup does allow for the situation that you are running into where your master breaker can trip even though none of the sub breakers have tripped. ...


3

The outdoor receptacle will have to be GFCI protected. NEC 210.8 At dwellings, ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) protection shall be provided for all receptacle outlets installed in bathrooms, garages, grade-level portions of unfinished accessory buildings, crawl spaces, unfinished basements, kitchen countertops, wet-bar sinks, ...


3

Short answer: NO. Long answer: All splices must be in a junction box, and the junction box must be accessible. Caveat: There are some products that can be used to splice behind drywall outside of a box. See this answer here: http://diy.stackexchange.com/a/4535/928 But, I think it's preferable to fish a new line.


3

Like @Petey said you need a different kind of tester, and one of those plug-in testers with the 3 lights is great for receptacles. Assuming all is properly grounded the tester is capable of indicating an open neutral. I would first confirm that an open neutral condition exist before you go any farther, and then understand that the problem (the bad ...


3

A parallel circuit is what you're referring to. In a series circuit, if one connection is broken, the entire circuit is broken.


3

The problem is, whenever you turn one set of lights on, power can go through that shared light into the other circuit. So each switch controls all lights. While it -might- be possible to make 2 light groups (1 common light) work the way you want with two 4-way switches back-wired through each other, you're asking for something even more complicated. Each ...


3

It sounds like you have a bad connection or a broken wire somewhere upstream of your main breaker. Assuming that the power company's test were valid, then the problem would be the wire between your main breaker and the power meter. Other possibilities are that your main breaker is bad, or that the meter, meter box, or something upstream of that is broken. ...


3

They DO pass current through the switch and light at all times - just a few mA. The indicator is wired in parallel to the switch contacts. For most types of bulbs its not enough for the light to turn on. However with modern LED light bulbs these types of switches (as well as dimmers, and home automation switches) that dont use the neutral can cause the ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible