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Most likely you can pull power from an existing work box that has a switch, as long as you don't overload the circuit. This is a pretty common wiring task, but if you provide details or a photo of the wiring in the source box we can provide a wiring diagram.


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The "Common Out" lead on the old receiver module, is simply a grounded (neutral) conductor. Since the new receiver doesn't have this lead. You'll want to connect the white wire from the fixture, together with the white wire from the ceiling, and the white (neutral in) wire from the new receiver. The new wiring should be connected as follows: Ungrounded ...


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You have a leak, obviously. Water will travel along pipes, wires, framing, etc so it doesn't mecessarily have to be leaking right above where you see the water. It could be a hole in a pipe, bad fitting, etc. You're going to need to rip up your ceilings (usually easier than floor since it's just drywall versus a flooring material) to find out where it's ...


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Definitely don't use WOOD as suggested by DMoore! Yes, consult your local Ohio codes. A new material, probably not rated or considered in Ohio code, but used extensively outside the US, is MGO board, which is fireproof, waterproof, mold proof... I wish this would get certified, as it's a much better idea than drywall in the first place! This is NOT Chinese ...


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It looks like about the only thing you can do is add a drop ceiling in this area. Code here would require the drywall to be 5/8ths between a garage area and a living area. Basically this means putting in a frame to support that drywall. It wouldn't have to be finished except on the joints, and if you have an area you need to leave access to, you can make ...


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In most cases it's more effective (insulation-wise) and cost effective to either insulate on top (Add sheets of rigid foam, plywood over, new roof surface on top of that) or to tear out the interior ceiling, insulate, and put up a new ceiling. Depending on the structure, some sort of blown-in (cellulose, or fibreglass if you like insulation that gets less ...


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You can notch a joist up to 1/6 the depth of the joist. For example, a 2x10 can be notched 1.54166" deep (9 1/4" / 6). However, you cannot notch a joist within the middle 1/3 of the joists length. The notch can also only be 1/3 the depth of the joist wide. Again with the 2x10 example, that means the notch can only be 3.0833" wide (9 1/4" / 3). Since ceiling ...


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Typically, when butting corner-bead you should, first, cut about a 2" to 3" piece of bead and place it under the butt joint. That way your two pieces will butt together neatly and will be smooth when you mud over them. If your run is longer than 10', you'll need to do this (most bead is 8', but 10' is also available).


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According to http://www.cdc.gov/rodents/cleaning/ and http://www.cdc.gov/hantavirus/technical/hps/faq.html hantavirus stays infectious for only a few days. Let the droppings sit for a while (and thoroughly dry out), then vacuum them.


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Being that you are in a rental situation there is very little that you can do to attempt to modify the building structure and reduce the noise. If you cannot move to a different situation you may have to resort to wearing some ear muffs or a headset depending on whether you want quiet or to listen to your TV / Sound System. It may be possible to condition ...


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Really really difficult. I had a house that I tried to insulate the noise from upstairs. I put on the upstairs floor two layers of 1/2 inch drywall covered with 3/4 inch ply (with no fasteners) and then carpet on top. It made perhaps 25 percent difference. If you were to hang extra layers of drywall on the ceiling, you would have to fasten it with screws ...


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I would recommend that you reuse the furring. Here is my reasoning It's already there. It will cost more to remove it than reuse it It will provide space to run electrical, network, phone, coax, etc wiring Unless you head height is really low, the 1.5" will not be missed too much. Essentially, you have a 'service cavity'. You can place low profile can ...


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Note that this is just a best possible guess based on the current info and in no way should be used as a "given". Since room is an addition and the fact that you are on the top floor of a flat roof house, I doubt that there is too much to do as far as the roof. It is quite possible if the room is truly an addition that the roof section could be taken apart ...



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