New answers tagged ceiling
If the radius of the wall to ceiling transition is on the order of 1 to 2 inches then that corner is likely formed by use of a vinyl inside corner beading. It comes in lengths and inserted up into the corners and nailed / screwed along the edges through a flange that gets covered over with a feathered edge of drywall mud to blend the beading to the wall and ...
There are two primary types of anchors for concrete. I'd trust either if properly installed. Holes must be drilled cleanly and to the proper size. Bolts must be of the correct diameter and length. Both require fairly large holes (7/16" to 5/8" or so). Sleeve or Wedge Anchor (with integrated bolt) Lag Shield (with standard lag screw)
You don't have a bonding concern (assuming clean plaster), so I'd use Easy Sand. It's also a setting-type joint compound, but it isn't as rock hard as DuraBond. It will bond very well to plaster and lath, and it won't shrink much at all. I'd go with the 45- or 90-minute varieties. The faster ones get difficult to work in a hurry. Also, use cool water. Warm ...
It sounds like power is fed through the ceiling... here's a look at the wiring that you should have: If you hooked it up correctly, then either the lamp, fuse, or switch is faulty.
Before reading your question, I would have said that joint compound is completely inert/ non-toxic/ ready-to-serve. (That last one was a joke, btw.) Looking at a couple of MSDS sheets for common joint compounds, they seem pretty inert. However, there are suggestions on the interwebs (for all that's worth!) that some joint compounds contain traces of vinyl ...
At the Light Connect the white wire that leads to the recessed lights, and the white wire from the fan/light to the white wire in the ceiling box. Connect the the black from the recessed lights, to the black ungrounded (hot) wire that's controlled by the dimmer. Connect the red wire from the fan/light, to the red ungrounded (hot) wire that is not ...
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