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Another thing that seriously needs to get corrected is the totally unacceptable workmanship of the wire attachment at the switches. The wire insulation should be right up at the screw head. The tail end of the wire should only extend out from under the screw heads by a very small amount. If this wiring was prepared by someone that you paid to do ...


1

I suggest first off to take the remote control kit out of the installation to see if you can get the fan going without it. Once that is successful then re-attempt introducing the remote unit.


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Fan/light with no remote Put everything back the way it was. Connect the white from the fan/light to the white from the ceiling. Connect the green/bare from the fan/light to the green/bare from the ceiling. Connect the black and blue wires from the fan/light to the black or red wire from the ceiling that was connected to the black wire from the old ...


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Based on your descriptions (the pictures are hard to read), there should be red and black wires in the ceiling box. It sounds like you should have tapped the fan's AC IN L into the black wire for the fan's switched hot line, but you tapped into the red instead. If that is the case, just switch the fan power line over to the black. Be sure to leave the ...


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Unless the gypsum board is attached directly to the underside of the roof sheathing, it is not a roofing nail. If the gypsum board is attached directly to the underside of the roof sheathing, then there are larger quality of construction issues than a protruding nail.


7

Looks to me like a drywall screw or nail has "bubbled out". It happens sometimes due to wall movement, especially with weather swings (like a real wet winter or a long drought). It also happens when moisture gets to a nail or screw and causes it to corrode. Hopefully your kinda new roof is not leaking. I don't see any signs of plaster discoloration ...


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I have had this issue a few times with bathroom fans. I have no idea why the manufacturers don't just let us screw the fans in. The retaining clips are crap, sometimes don't hold well and often are never snug when they do. Yours is really bad so I am thinking it is not in the right spot. You usually have to hold the clips together and push up. A first ...


5

This is not normal. The trim plate should be tight against the finished ceiling. You might be able to simply push the trim plate up, where it will lock into place. If that doesn't work, you'll have to adjust the retaining clips to hold the plate in place.


2

If (and it's a big if) you can find a company in the business that won't have to travel too far, this might be a good candidate for a spray foam (usually polyurethane) roof, applied on top of the existing roof. More commonly seen on commercial buildings, but a flat roof is a flat roof... If you cannot find a company who can get to you and do it for ...


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The page http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-build-insulated-cathedral-ceiling is a compendium of several other pages covers the subject pretty well, though it is targeted at cathedral ceilings, all of it applies equally well to a moderately sloped or level ceiling. Keeping moisture out is the prime consideration for unvented rafters. ...


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The principle behind a flat roof is the same as with a sloped roof: keep moisture out of the uninsulated space of the roof. Most roof systems require venting. Venting is necessary to remove any moisture that comes from the inside of the home into the insulated space and causes condensation. Condensation causes mold and other moisture problems. As long as ...


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The trunking is fairly rigid and can be put in most locations without gluing it to the wall or wallpaper. It merely serves to cover and contain the wires which are already safely covered. You could cut the trunking to fit the run you want, enclose the wires and then use simple wire loops around the trunking in two or three places, held close to the wall ...



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