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1

Yup, I figured it out 10 minutes later. Single red to black from fixture, capped the blacks. All good, thanks!!!


0

It sounds like a "three way" switch. There are two switches, one lamp and 14-3 cable with 3 conductors and a ground. The switches are wired do both must be on or off for the light to work. This is hard to explain in words. Look up three way switch wiring for examples. And careful, the white wires are hot in this arrangement.


0

Red should be switched power and you would cap off the black coming from the ceiling.


6

Both the black and red are likely ungrounded (hot) conductors. However, one or both of them are likely switched. That is, one or both of them are energized only when a switch is closed. Test the wires with your meter, and determine which one is controlled by the switch. Once you figure that out, connect only that wire to the black wire on the fixture. ...


-3

You wired the fixture hot to the hot supply AND the switched hot. Hardly surprising that it does not turn off. What the wiring should be is red (switched hot) to fixture black, white to white, and bare to green. The black should be connected wherever it was (or was not, but usually it was) before you rewired the thing - generally going to the switch, and ...


0

Most of the time in a house in Canada you would have 6-10mil plastic over the drywall in the ceiling. However the answer isn't that easy and the vapor barrier isn't needed for sure. It also depends on the type of insulation that you have (faced or not), what other types of barriers are installed in your attic, and really what is on the rest of your ...


0

A lot of people use mold-resistant drywall in bathrooms. This is normally blue or green and costs a few extra dollars at the hardware store.


0

Cut the damaged drywall out. With it out inspect the area between floors to see if there's any moisture or other damage. Dry it out, run a fan, spray with mildewcide, whatever it needs. See if you can see any light shining in from the upstairs bathroom now that you have access so you can identify the source of the leak. Repair the drywall with a drywall ...


0

Bathroom floors are not supposed to leak. You may want to pay to have the floor redone properly. I assume this is a new house that you are just discovering this. The photo looks like plastered drywall. Normally wet drywall has to be replaced, otherwise it will grow mold which is bad. Theoretically it can be dryed out, but that would not be an easy operation ...


0

Break the clips provided, by bending them repeatedly. Start with less then the distance your ceiling is thicker than 1/2". Now put a similar to original bend on the shortened clip as the original did, install per original directions dictate.


0

If you only have red green and white wired coming from the ceiling, that means it's only meant for one switch. The other switch may be for an outlet in the room. Sometimes an outlet is set to a switch so you can connect a lamp and control it from a wall switch; if this is the case you will not be able to control the light and fan separately except with a ...


0

Remote receivers control the light and fan usually, it only gets one power source. Once installed only one switch will work. It sucks but that's how they are. You are bypassing the ability to control both functions from wall to the more "convenient" option of a remote. The switches are both use less at this point. Use the remote as the switch. My fan had ...


0

You would need to test to verify, but it looks like the black is a constant hot with the red being the switch leg. So to connect a chandelier you'd use the red (hot), white (neutral) and ground.


0

First you need to figure out if the ceilings are considered a firewall. If they are they must be 5/8 inch type X. If not I would suggest one of the two: 1/2" gypsum ceiling board - ceiling board is simply drywall rated to have less sag and less pulling properties. This is normally what we use on jobs. It is not always available at big box in all ...


-1

Depends on the ceiling/wall function. In most cases for repairs you want to replicate what was there, unless you are ripping the entire wall/ceiling or it's too hard to track down matching replacement drywall. If the wall/ceiling is a firewall, you normally need to replace the structure that was there, which may be double-layer 5/8 type X ("firecode") ...



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