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47

There is absolutely no reason to use nails in this day and age. I urge you to use 1 5/8" drywall screws. There are several reasons. Screws have much better holding power, they are actually faster to install, and they can be slightly counter sunk during installation to make mudding a lot easier ( especially with a drywall screw gun or a decent drywall bit ...


20

I'm sorry to say, and hate to criticize other's work, but those screws are not driven properly. The screws need to be driven with a sheetrock screw gun or a dimpler bit in a regular screw gun. The screws need to be slightly counter sunk with an indented dimple around the screw head into the sheetrock to hold some joint compound. The screws should not break ...


15

Ideally this should be screwed/anchored into a joist for maximum support. However, if you really want to use a drywall anchor, you should use a toggle bolt or a ceiling anchor. Instead of just screwing into the wall, these expand to several times their size which gives you a good hold, especially when the force is pulling directly down. 10lbs might be ...


14

My wife and I just finished doing this last month. Here's the process we took: Before you start, check to make sure you don't have asbestos in the popcorn. If your house is newer construction, you don't have to worry about this, but if it's older, you may want to scrape a bit off the ceiling and send it to a lab for testing. If it comes back positive, I ...


12

Most new fans comes with a balance kit. It includes a heavy clip and a set of stick-on weights. If you don't have the balance kit you can buy one at a big-box home improvement store. First, run the fan at each speed to see where it wobbles worst. Put the clip on one of the blades near the middle and run the fan at that speed. Check if the wobble improves ...


11

There's two principles to soundproofing that actually work: Isolation and Absorption. The trick is figuring out the right way to implement them. Be careful of anything that doesn't follow these two principles. The Absorption principle is how acoustic ceiling tiles and carpets work: They absorb the sounds as they pass through the material, or they keep the ...


11

I assume you mean the roof is exposed to the sun...and that in turn is heating your ceiling? If so, options: make sure the roof is reflective (white/metallic) rather than a dark color (which absorbs heat) make sure the roof is insulated If the roof can support a green/planted roof, consider that. plant trees to shade the roof (obviously may take a few ...


10

You can use a really thick-napped (1" nap) roller, but make sure to go very slow, or you will fling paint everywhere.


10

Per the wording of that code, you can't be adding anything to the floor or the ceiling as you'll be under the 7' minimum. You could consider a super-thin flooring (stain the concrete? Linoleum?) and then, as you suggest, put the sheetrock between the joists (though that sounds like a finishing nightmare). Alternatively, raise the foundation (likely cost ...


10

There are a few places where nails are backing out of the drywall in my house, particularly on the bathroom ceilings. I don't know the cause (movement? house is about 40 years old), or if "doing it correctly" would have mitigated against this in the first place. But it looks terrible; and I'm using screws as I repair areas to prevent this from occurring ...


10

From what I see in your pics, you have a plaster ceiling that is failed. Usually water is the culprit for delaminating the scratch from the finish coats. You have two options to repair this. First option is to remove all loose plaster down to the lathe and replace it with new plaster. This is not as easy as it may sound. Working with real plaster takes ...


9

Stains will usually come right through a new coat of paint. Did you prime it first? In my experience I've found that a good oil (or even better, shellac) based primer works best for keeping stains from bleeding through the paint.


9

During construction of multi-unit dwellings, we install homasote on top of the subfloor (in the unit above yours). In the ceiling, we will add a layer of insulation. And then before installing the drywall on the ceiling, we would install resilient channel that keeps the drywall from directly contacting the joists. Your options post construction are very ...


8

I've always butted them together, and I've never had any problems with doing it that way. Not sure what your builder was thinking by overlapping them.


8

Home Depot has them, as i'm sure Lowes, a Philips head bit with a collar around it that'll stop the driving of the screw once you reach the surface of the drywall; their used to counter sink the screw without breaking the paper (important) We used them in the kitchen and I'll be using them this week on the bedrooms; I wanna say a pack of 5 is less then $10 ...


8

A suspended ceiling may help a bit. They are not designed to be insulators, but it will keep the hot air lower. Right now in the room, you should be able to feel a gradient where it gets warmer. I suspect that more or less you'll have the same gradient, but moved down by roughly the same amount you move down the ceiling: eg if you put a drop ceiling at 8', ...


8

If you dont want to run a new pipe you will need specific insulation Notice that this insulation has a shiny outside layer. This acts as a reflection for heat, and usually has a black/dark side on the inside. The foam/glass wool used to wrap the pipe needs not be anything special, but I am sure there are special ones that locks out heat better.. instead ...


8

Generally speaking, a room with a light-colored ceiling will appear taller than a room with a dark-colored ceiling. However, in a really small space painted in a darker color, painting the ceiling the same color will make the border between wall and ceiling disappear, making it more difficult to gauge the ceiling height by sight. A related technique for ...


8

Yes: NEC 2011 334.30(B): Unsupported cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable: (1) Is fished between access points through concealed spaces in finished buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable. (2) Is not more than 1.4 m (4½ ft) from the last point of cable support to the point of ...


8

We've done a double layer of drywall to slow the spread of fire in multi-unit developments, specifically between the ceiling and attic space. However, judging by the gap, I'm guessing that you might have this done as a retrofit to block sound. There will be somewhere that the drywall is attached, and it's likely going to be metal tracks running every 16". ...


8

I find that it's best to attach 1x3 furring strips across the joists. It's worth the extra cost. The 1x3 will give you 1.25 inches of screwing space, so you don't have to be quite as accurate with your cuts. Glue is not needed, but will reduce screw pops by making the assembly more 'solid'. I always use adhesive when I can (when there is no vapor barrier ...


7

For future reference- there is no need to buy these kits. They are essentially selling you a zip-top baggie for $10.00. Simply wet the area, and scrape a very small sample into a zip-top bag of your own. Then place this bag into another sealable bag (i.e.- double-bag the sample). Then you can call one of several national testing labs, that will perform ...


7

patching a hole in the ceiling is the same as patching one in the wall (only your arms usually get more tired from being above your head), see this question


7

The 2X4's you are looking at are collar ties attached to the end of the rafters and span wall to wall. They are really only strong enough to support ceiling materials, not a live load. The new floor joists will need to rest on the upper wall plate (load bearing) adjacent to a rafter, and cross supported. The items you need to determine are span, joist ...


7

the effect can be achieved by getting something like a hula hoop (cut it open) or a piece of small gauge metal rod bent in to a circle. then sew a pocket along the edge of the fabric, like a pair of pants or hood with a draw string. thread the rod or hula hoop through, then do something to close the loop. with the hula hoop, i would recommend a dowel that ...


7

Safety first Make sure you wear proper safety gear. Safety goggles, appropriate gloves, hearing protection (if applicable), and a hardhat, might all be useful safety equipment. Watch out for that... Make sure you know what is inside the wall/floor, cutting through a wire or pipe can ruin your day really fast. "Did it come out yet?" It might be a good ...


7

First measure this distance on the light base: Then check this distance on the existing bracket. (These should be the threaded holes in the bracket). If those two dimensions match then use the screws B to mount the base to the existing bracket into the threaded holes. You should be able to start the screws into the bracket and then slide the light base ...


7

Start by determining which holes on the bracket, line up with the holes on the fixture... Next install screws B into those holes on the bracket, with the head of the screw facing down. Do not tighten the screws down, you want them just started in the holes. Fit the fixture over the screws, so that the screws come through the mounting holes on the ...


7

Utility Knife Position a 2'- 4' level (or other straight edge) along the line you'd like to cut. With the straight edge in place, gently draw the utility knife along the line. You don't have to press too hard, just enough to cut through the paper on the face of the drywall. Draw the utility knife repeatedly through the groove you scored in the previous ...


7

The overkill direction (which is actually appropriate for some circumstances, such as a ceiling that needs to hold up a lot of insulation, as for an attic above) is to run 1x3 strapping opposite to the joists. An advantage in the application I mention is that this strapping can be on 12 inch spacing, so the drywall can be attached with a screw every foot, ...



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