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The wires from the ceiling box are probably a "hot" wire (black), a neutral wire (white), a ground wire (copper), and a switched-hot (red)(see description here). On the fan you probably have a neutral (white), a "hot" lead for the motor and a "hot" lead for the light that is not there (blue & black). Most fans can be equipped with light kits so they ...


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Absolutely do not leave the wires alone wrapped in electrical tape. Electrical tape does not have enough longevity to safely protect the exposed leads and can create a hazard in the future. The blue wire exists to support the future addition of a light. The polite thing to do for your future self or future owner of your home would be to connect the blue and ...


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Green to green, white to white. Assuming you have a two gang switch (two switches at wall, only one used). Blue and Black from fan connected either to the red or black wire from wall. Other wire needs to be wire capped. The black wire from the fan is the hot for the fan motor, the blue is for an optional light kit.


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A/C devices like lights and fan motors need to be connected to a "hot" (live) wire and a "neutral" (normally white) wire to operate. The ground wire is for safety. At your wall box you have a black and a pink wire. These are most likely a black "hot" and a pink "switched hot". A switched hot is only hot when your wall switch is ON, it delivers live power to ...


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Connect the white wire to the white wire. If you want the wall switch to turn off the light/fan, then hook the pink wire in the box to the black wire on your controller. If you want to prevent the switch from turning off the light/fan then connect black to black. Which ever wire you don't use should be capped with a spare wire nut and wrapped with ...


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The reference to a switch loop in the related question describes a pair of wires that are both hot or live. The white wire is serving as a black and should have a black marking or tape on it. The switch is serving as a break in the hot line. Every operating device (like a fan or lamp) in standard wiring needs a hot line and a neutral line, and usually a ...


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NO PUTTY! You have a loose electrical connection and a loose mechanical connection. Mechanical First you need to fix the mechanical attachment mechanism. It may be a loose nut on a threaded pipe holding the individual fixture to the base. It could be some other locking mechanism, such as bolts or screws. In some fixtures, the sockets are held in by ...


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Start by turning off the power at the breaker, and verifying it's off with a non-contact voltage tester. Connect all the bare or green grounding conductors together. Connect the white wire from the ceiling to the white wire on the input side of the remote receiver module and the white wire in the fan. Connect the black wire from the ceiling to the black ...


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Using foam in a can, like Great Stuff http://www.homedepot.com/p/GREAT-STUFF-Big-Gap-Filler-Insulating-Foam-Sealant-16-oz-248314/100029171 can be used to fill in gaps to help prevent air leaks.


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Yes, you can purchase a remote control module that will allow you to independently control the fan and the light. Most modules only require a hot, neutral, and ground wire to operate. Here's a wiring diagram from a random fan remote, installation guide (PDF). The receiver gets power from the house wiring, then determines which leads to energized ...


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You should re-feed this fan from a lighting circuit or other 15A circuit. A ceiling fan CANNOT be supplied from a kitchen or DR receptacle circuit. Whoever did this was clueless with regard to codes and proper wiring.


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This is what I'd do: Leave the terminal of the capacitor which is connected to the supply as it is. The other terminal is connected to one end of the winding. This needs to be disconnected and connected to the other end of the winding.



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