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The threaded rod you see in the middle is a stud. It is used to attach mounting bars or hickey (a connecting device). Studs are attached to the box, not to framing members. It is no indicator of the strength of the box itself, or the attachment mechanism. Fan boxes are characterized by their screw system that ensures a redundant attachment between the fan ...


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In terms of electrical connectivity, yes, the switches appear to be wired correctly. BTW: the big nut o' white wires in the back means that power's actually fed to the switch box first instead of being fed to the light first with a switch loop to the switch. This is a good thing because it makes installing fancy timers/smart-switches/etal much easier than ...


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The switches appear to be wired correctly. The switch on the right appears to be an LED-compatible, triac dimmer. But you have one triac-dimmer switch for LED lights (on the right), and another switch that controls the fan plus another LED bulb? This bulb is the problem... or this fixture cannot be used with that particular model of LED bulb. Generally, ...


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By how you have explained it you will need an extra switch wire going to your new light switch/fan controller.wire the switch as normal and loop a wire from permanent active from switch to one terminal of the 3 speed fan contoller and the extra wire you need is the return to the fan motor which you connect to other terminal of 3 speed controller and connect ...


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It's an open secret, that No standards are followed in India, and none of the electrical or any other work is up to code. I too had a similar problem in the apartment that I was renting in Bangalore. Every-time there was lighting and thunder, first the power used to fail, and some of the lights used to flicker, and couple of times the winding of my ceiling ...


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Wow I haven't heard of fans being damaged like the issue you are having usually computers and digital devices are damaged well before a motor is. A whole house surge suppressor would help to reduce line spikes like this. There are many diferent brands and sizes, they get more expensive as the size of the spike they can disipate goes up, measured in Joules. ...


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Ok, the simple answer to your question is to wire the fan, both the black and blue wires together to the original hot lead which you said was red. Red is not normally the hot in a single switch circuit (SPST) unless it is run with a 14/3 wg, but if it worked with the old light, then the red is your switched source of power. The black wire from the fan/light ...


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NEMA maintains an "AFCI Unwanted Tripping Report" form at http://www.afcisafety.org/report.html . After reporting a problem there, I was contact and eventually send a new AFCI breaker that solved the problem, sort of.


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Your problem is actually very easy to fix based on the information you've given -- simply replace the outlet with a new one without breaking the tab off the hot side, connect the black wire to the hot screw on the outlet, and cap off the red wire at the outlet with a wirenut instead of connecting it to the new outlet.


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A15 refers to the size of the glass part. The small base size is known as an E12 Candelabra base. Anything with that size, screw-in base should fit in the socket, but it has to be A15 to fit within the shade. Also, watch out for the rating or brightness of the bulb. The Harbor Breeze model ceiling fans usually say MAX 60W. So that's around 14W for CFL ...



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