New answers tagged caulking
Soapy fingers work well. A slice of potato also does a great job and does not spread the silicone as much as a finger.
Hope these tips from my experience doing caulking around tubs and showers help: Take your time. Don't rush it or you'll be doing it again within a year or two. It might take two nights to get the old caulk all out. So what. You want a job that will last. Clean out all the old caulk. Use a 1" paint scraper, razor blade scraper, knife, maybe high grit ...
Your contractor is wrong. This joint should always be caulked with a silicone mold resistant kitchen/bath type caulk, as should the vertical inside corners of your tub walls. Make sure you clean out the grout joint completely and let it dry thoroughly so you have a clean surface to attach the caulk to. Then prepare to ignore it for around 15 years...
In all the shower installs I overseen, the company I worked for maintained that caulk is to be used in any inside corners except where excessive/standing water is. For example, caulk corners where tub and walls meet, and vertical inside corners where the walls come together. DO NOT caulk where the floor and walls meet, I personally seen caulk creep out of ...
I am assuming that you have cleaned off the surface thoroughly. I would probably try to sand the area where you want the caulk. I would only imagine that if there is any soap residue that the caulk would just slip away. Curious if you tried that, I'm sure you have, if not I hope this helps.
Both vinyl and aluminum have similar issues regarding thermal expansion. The siding must be installed with a gap to fixed objects in order for there to be room for expansion. If this is not done, the siding will expand against the obstruction. Not being able to move in that direction, it will buckle along it's length, causing unsightly bulges. Therefor, ...
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