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Experiment. Along one stretch of joint, apply a new layer of your preferred caulk directly over the existing caulk. If you like the result and the new layer holds up, complete the other walls. You are most likely to succeed with this approach if you first give the area a really good scrubbing to remove any soap scum. If the new caulk does not stick, it ...

It depends. If he used a tiny bead the whole way around then you could. Not best practice but you could. Your caulk needs to attach to both the tub and tile. If you can accomplish that while caulking over and it looks good then good for you. Worst case scenario is you are out $5 for the caulk... You were going to have to scrape out the caulk anyway.

While I'm tempted to say the difference is just marketing hype, you can use either one, there is a very slight difference in formulation. The window and door stuff has slightly less petroleum distillates in the formula, according to MSDS information at nih.gov. Petroleum distillates will evaporate during curing, so I'm unsure why there's a difference. The ...

Acrylic caulks and paints, etc. are water-based. If you can clean them up easily with water than that's a pretty good sign that they are water-soluble. Your caulk should be water-proof if fully cured. If you applied the caulking very thick or if the temperature is cool, it could take longer than the specified time to cure. Also, I don't think these are ...

As Michael Karas said 5/8 is a large gap to be dealing with, and no matter what you do now it is going to look "hack-ish" unless you re-do something. However as far as backer-rod is concerned you can use back-rod in a shower. As for what type, I'd go with closed-cell for less possibility of water absorption. For backer rod size you generally want 1/8" ...

A 5/8 inch gap is an awfully wide one to try to bridge with silicone caulk. Even with some type of filler I think you are unlikely to get a result that you would be happy with. At least I know I would not be happy. Silicone caulk needs to be applied all at once to get a nice installation. First off it will not be reasonably possible to squirt out a 5/8 ...

It could be construction adhesive, which would be hard to completely remove. Use a sharp utility knife to open up the crack. Don't worry about removing material that is still providing a seal, just remove the rough stuff in the opening so the new caulk will be able to bond to solid material. Fill the enlarged opening with caulk and you're done, unless you ...

An exterior rated product will be good in the kitchen. The version you linked is a "3 hr rain ready" version, so you want to do any tooling ASAP. I like to put 2 tape lines of (blue or other painters edging tape) above and below the joint. Gun the entire line and then "thumb squeegee" the joint. Pull the tape off and immediately touch up with a rag ...