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11

Removing the old pipe First you want to make sure the section of pipe that will remain, is properly supported (you don't want it falling). Then you'll want to install some temporary supports, to catch the portion of the pipe that you'll be removing. Use a chain cutter, hammer and cold chisel, or grinder to break the pipe a few inches before the hub on the ...


7

For cutting the pipe, go rent a chain pipe cutter (aka soil pipe cutter). It will make short work of the pipe and not be too messy. It will make a clean enough edge that a Fernco coupling (like you have a picture of) will work fine. Obviously you will need to add some strapping to secure the horizontal run of iron pipe if you go this route because you ...


7

You're going to have to cut out the pipe, and replace it with PVC drain pipe. You can get rubber connectors (fernco) for the transition. Here's a youtube how-to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFaJyIzyiYA


6

Why is it rotten? Does it bode ill for the rest of the system? I would replace as much cast as is easily doable with ABS. I would cut above and below where the K sink drain comes in and replace everything back to the sink with ABS. Is there a particularly good sawzall blade for this? Standard metal blade will do - I just cut a 4" myself no ...


3

Ductile Iron dose rust but at a much slower rate than Cast Iron I only use it when the owner wants the old style piping (Okam and lead) for the seal. I believe it will out last you and any kids if it has a protective coating it will last over 75 years if memory serves but I haven't installed any in years I usually change to ABS and a no hub (also called a ...


3

Cast Iron drain pipe with Bell fittings, these are packed with oakum and overlaid with hot poured lead driven in place to seal and then a second layer poured in to complete the seal. It may only need the lead driven in to repack the oakum and a new layer of lead poured. Contact a plumber with knowledge about old drain systems, cast iron can take a long ...


3

A silicon based glue should be able to withstand these temperatures. Makes sure to verify the max temp on the package. Silicon glue


2

DIY cutting cast iron is pretty easy, but it's a little counter-intuitive. Cast iron is extremely brittle compared to steel. That's important for how you approach it. Cutting it with a sawzall blade is going to be very slow and frustrating. I think the best choice of blade would be along the lines of the diamond-grit "friction" blades, but any sawzall ...


2

Remember, cast iron is brittle. A chain-breaker does not actually cut it, it cracks and separates it. You can use the same principle: use the angle grinder make a groove to weaken material around the perimeter of the material right where you want it to break. Then allow the grinding wheel to penetrate all the way through at only a single spot (a 1/4" or ...


2

Moisture pooling in the joints like that suggests standing water in the pipe, which will eventually rust it out for sure. If this is the case, there's probably a blockage of some sort downstream that's resulting in sewage backup (ew). I would definitely address that first. After that, you can decide whether or not it's worth replacing pipe. My guess is that ...


1

As it turned out, there was no leak between the tank and the bowl, but it was a crack in the closet bend. When I looked into the closet bend, I could see what looked like a crack or pitting, but I didn't expect it to be the source of the leak, because it didn't leak when I poured water over it. Having exhausted other options, I decided to try fixing it ...


1

I had a similar problem once but the leak was visible and the outside of the toilet bowl was wet. Flushing from the tank produced leakage but flushing with a bucket did not. It sounds like clean flush water is somehow escaping on its way from the flush valve to the toilet bowl. This could be from a misaligned tank fitting or a crack in the ceramic material. ...


1

There is no such thing as a "minor" leak in cast iron. If it is leaking, it means major corrosion is occurring. If you were to open the joint and look in, you would see the inside of the pipe is completely rotted. You could put a liner inside the pipe and pump it full of some kind of sealant, but it would be a lot of work to do that and it would be ...


1

I would fill the wall around the pipe with hydraulic cement to get a water-tight seal. Both the PVC and the rubber boot need UV protection. Those should be buried under at least 6 inches of dirt (that was the recommendation of the inspector when I had to do a similar repair).


1

You have used wrong adapter-connector to connect cast iron pipe to ABS/PVC. Per Code when connecting the ABS or PVC to cast iron you should use No-Hub Adapter fitting. Rubber connector or Flexible Coupling are allowed only under ground. As defined in the Uniform Plumbing Code section 705.4.2. a mechanical joint shielded coupling for hubless cast-iron pipe ...


1

I was poking around some to see what other were saying about this because I am having the same issue with my stove after replacing some of the rubber feet. Found something on Amazon that looks like it would work. Thought I would share. Red Devil Industrial Grade Heat Resistant Rtv Silicone Sealant Product Description Sold as each. 10.1 Oz. Cartridge. ...



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