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The MDF for backing ONLY will work fine. The 3 segments for the sake of getting in the house is not only a good idea for handling, but will make it possible for getting through your doors. It helps save the walls too. Small or large, a back on the cabinets will stabilize the carcasses (body of the cabinets). Once set in place, fastened together, and fastened ...


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First off, please clarify your questions in a list, it'll help sorting through your narration! Anyway, I'll take a stab at what I think your questions are: MDF for backing: MDF's weak point in this installation would be in its tendency to sag when supporting weight if it were to be used as shelving. As a backing it is perfectly suitable, provided it's ...


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Is it possible to bolt a steel angle to the concrete with a short leg under the overhanging plate to support it? Difficult to diagnose without seeing and of course bolting a steel might look a 'pigs ear' depending on where it is and what the options are to 'hide' the steel. This is of course assuming that you don't want to shutter up and pour new concrete ...


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Sometimes concrete just doesn't cooperate. I'd say up to an inch out of play is the carpenter's job to deal with. Two and a half inches! is possibly a problem for lawyers... Had the distance been fudged to one and a quarter inches on both sides, (harrumph) maybe that'd be OK... I'd be interested in what the permissible 'fudge factor' for sill plates ...


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I would be concerned. Have the general contractor figure out who is out of specification and have them fix it. (My guess is that the concrete is to blame, but I'm not there with a measuring tape.) I strongly suggest that you don't let the house be built out of square. Among other things, it'll cost a bit more at just about every step.



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