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If this is a cable TV wire, your best solution is to get it re-run properly by the cable TV company. Unfortunately, that sometimes can only be arranged by figuring out when it would be least inconvenient to you to have the cable out for a while and then running over it with the mower, etc - at least in my experience they are good at coming to fix stuff, bad ...


Depending on the type of conduit used, the codes for securing and supporting it are a bit different. In general, the conduit will have to be supported every 3-10 ft, depending on the type and size conduit used. Fireblocking between floor may also be required. International Residential Code 2012 Chapter 3 Building Planning Section 302 Fire ...


If you use WireMold conduit (which isn't nearly as ugly as round conduit), you can screw the backing strip to drywall anchors, studs, whatever you have, then snap the conduit body on over the backing strip. That's about as anchored as it can get.


You are right. Cable installers are complete morons who know zero about carpentry and will do whatever is easiest for them. The ideal is to run thin-wall EMT conduit from the basement to the attic. The conduit should be held to studs or some other firm support, like a joist. Once the cable is in the attic, it is easy to drop it into upstairs rooms. Make ...


That is a great idea. If there is space, run two large (1.5+ inch) conduits to make running new network cables, stereo audio, HDMI, and coax in the future easier. Take care to minimize the number of bends in the conduit for easier use, and use large radius elbows if any elbow is needed. Ducts and low voltage signals can be as close as you want. In some ...


I couldn't find the exact product pictured, but http://www.zhihonghk.com/cp/html/?73.html sells something that looks like it matches the functionality of sticking to itself on both sides and it looks sturdier. I've never used the product above, but I have used Velcro ONE-WRAP thin ties and they work well as a cable tie and even for holding parts of a ...


Drill up into the wall Drill on an angle You could try and dill up from underneath at just the right angle. Though this might be difficult, since you may not have much room to work and getting the proper angle could be impossible. Use a flexible bit In some situations, there might be enough room available to get a flexible bit into position from ...


With something like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/armeg-sds-plus-channelling-chisel-30mm/16724 If you are going to remove the skirting boards, a normal SDS chisel or drill bit is usually enough.


Careful measuring and (for exterior walls) a right angle drill, generally does the trick. Note that from below you generally can't see where the walls are, as you're looking at floorboards.

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