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Several different factors weigh in to what size of board you need. Weight - Definitely the major factor. Stud spacing - I'm assuming you've got standard 16" OC studs, and that you're attaching the support board to every one it spans. Location of Mounting Points - The closer the mounts for the shelving are to centered between studs, the higher the bending ...

Looks like an L corner bracket/brace. Probably worth upgrading to a metal one if it would fit: Amazon product link

There is a simple answer to this. Cut the angle matching the roof on the ceiling joist, slide it in on top of your wall and attach it to the side of the rafter. Then attach them together with small lags or carriage bolts. If you look at your picture the 8" joist will be in contact with the rafter well beyond your walls. The rafters will help carry the ...

A wooden shelf that is cantilevered 3 inches or so out from the end of a bracket will probably survive some load. But stack too much of a load on it (a pantry, canned food is heavy!) and even wood will crack. Particle board is very likely to fail of course as it has very little real strength. A shorter bracket will often be designed for a smaller load. ...

Should be fine, especially for indoor use, where there is little moisture and salt. Zinc and aluminum are pretty close galvanically, so the zinc coating should help. In fact, most bolts used on aluminum-structure airplanes are made of steel plated with zinc or cadmium (source).

Based on the flexibility of the flat bar stock, I decided to use square 1/2" tube stock. Using a 3/4" MDF subtop, I routed channels 5/8" wide and 9/16" deep. I then filled these channels with polyurethane glue, set in the steel bars, and finally I used a drywall knife to spread and flatten glue over the top of the bars. Here are pictures of my actual ...

If the shelf you're putting up is a solid wood shelf and not particle board, an 11" bracket will be fine (assuming it's a metal bracket). Certainly it's not ideal, but I don't know what you have for hardware stores in Israel. The grain of the wood will be perpendicular to the brackets, which would give you a chance to break the wood out at the end, but how ...

The product you are looking for are brackets for what is called "standards". They come in many different sizes. Ikea likes to put fancy names on things so they can charge more. Just goto your local home improvement store/hardware store and tell the person there that you are looking for brackets to fit standards.

I agree, you should use some "L" shelf brackets UNDER the shelves to the vertical supports. There are many you can chose from, but even the cheap gray 10 inch ones would work fine. Remember, if you use 3 supports, the load is divided, so each bracket will only be holding apx 1/2 of the load resting between two supports. If you mount them over the shelf, ...

I think you've answered your own question. The first type of mount is for screwing into a stud, the second is for drywall/plasterboard. You can still use the first type though. Cut the hole for the switch in the drywall and then cut a length of batten just longer that the hole. Then fix this to one side of the hole inside the cavity. This is the tricky ...

How much of an overhand do you plan on having? The spec I saw was that 10 inches were allowed with no supports. When the granite guy came to measure mine he told me I didn't really need them even at 12. I had alread put in corbels which look good, but do get in the way of knees. If I did it again, I would consider going to 10" and not having any bracking. ...

One thing to consider if you're mounting this bag on the wall, all the weight is going to be supported by 2 nails per stud that attach the stud to the top plate. These nails are preventing the stud from pulling out from the wall and falling over. I don't have a lot of confidence that you can hang a heavy bag from one or two studs without causing damage that ...

Mejier has a punching bag bracket on sale. Much cheaper than other dedicated punching bag solutions, and only slightly more expensive than the DIY solution. http://www.meijer.com/s/century-wall-mount-heavy-bag-hanger/_/R-214858

If it really must be attached to the wall, I would go with heavy-duty shelf brackets, like these: The 16"x18" version like this one at Home Depot is rated for 600 lbs each. I would use two, anchoring each to a stud with lag bolts. I would then bridge between them with 3/4" plywood, and probably a 2x4 on top of the plywood at the point you want to attach ...

How about you get two of these type brackets (they come in a pair) and mount them to two adjacent studs but triangulate them together to a mount point for the punch bag to hang from. These particular brackets are 24 inches in length and if triangulated as shown below on studs that at 16 inches on center you would achieve a projection from the wall of ...

I tried to think of an adaptive use of some common building product but drew blanks. That may be why purpose made ones are expensive. If it really seems exorbitant, you might be able to get a local metal shop to fabricate one for less. For that matter, someone with decent carpentry skills could build one from wood. The joint designs would be critical to ...

I don't know much about countertop weights, I've never done one, but I can tell you that flat steel is strongest along it's smallest edge. It's not supposed to be too rigid when flat. For example, if I have a quarter inch thick piece of steel, 3 inches wide and 1 foot long, if I put it down flat on 2 end supports and stood on it, it would bow. If I braced ...

Simpson Strong-Tie has a vast selection of product like this. http://www.strongtie.com/ has a downloadable PDF catalog. What you're looking for is known as a post cap like the following and is used to tie a vertical post to a top plate. They're also available at Ace Hardware and Do-It-Best affiliate stores. Use the standard high-shear strength Teco nails to ...

As Chris mentions, you answered your own question. However, I think Home Depot, and probably the other major stores, have this for much less in the form of a metal bracket that you install with a pair of pliers and modular wall plates for various A/V, networking, and phone plugs. I've installed them all over the house here. All you need is a drywall saw, ...