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7

Several different factors weigh in to what size of board you need. Weight - Definitely the major factor. Stud spacing - I'm assuming you've got standard 16" OC studs, and that you're attaching the support board to every one it spans. Location of Mounting Points - The closer the mounts for the shelving are to centered between studs, the higher the bending ...


6

Looks like an L corner bracket/brace. Probably worth upgrading to a metal one if it would fit: Amazon product link


5

There is a simple answer to this. Cut the angle matching the roof on the ceiling joist, slide it in on top of your wall and attach it to the side of the rafter. Then attach them together with small lags or carriage bolts. If you look at your picture the 8" joist will be in contact with the rafter well beyond your walls. The rafters will help carry the ...


4

I agree, you should use some "L" shelf brackets UNDER the shelves to the vertical supports. There are many you can chose from, but even the cheap gray 10 inch ones would work fine. Remember, if you use 3 supports, the load is divided, so each bracket will only be holding apx 1/2 of the load resting between two supports. If you mount them over the shelf, ...


4

Put the leg that best matches your shelf width under the shelf. That is why there's different leg sizes. The bracket's critical section is the inner corner, it is equally strong in both directions. That said, usually the critical portion of the entire assembly is the withdrawal of the upper wall screw. Having the long leg against the wall somewhat reduces ...


4

As far as I know, there is no "standard" for this. I've looked for them. The only standards have to do with the actual closet dimensions that are specified in building codes. A common convention is 12" from the back wall to the center of the rod. People typically put the closet rods in the middle of the closet. Minimum closet depth is 24" so that puts the ...


4

There is a 3/4" extender sold by Cooper Industries (and maybe others). They call it a cover. This site sells it and it probably can be found elsewhere online. You need to be sure that the box in the ceiling is firmly attached to the framing, preferably directly screwed into a joist. Fan rated boxes have heavier duty attachments for the fan hanger and use ...


3

This looks like a bad piece of engineering design to use a slip finger bracket to mount a cantilever paper holder. This type of bracket would work pretty good for a towel bar that was mounted on both ends or possibly for a soap dish that was mounted right on center. I can suggest two possible courses of action that would solve the problem as long as the ...


3

If the shelf you're putting up is a solid wood shelf and not particle board, an 11" bracket will be fine (assuming it's a metal bracket). Certainly it's not ideal, but I don't know what you have for hardware stores in Israel. The grain of the wood will be perpendicular to the brackets, which would give you a chance to break the wood out at the end, but how ...


3

The product you are looking for are brackets for what is called "standards". They come in many different sizes. Ikea likes to put fancy names on things so they can charge more. Just goto your local home improvement store/hardware store and tell the person there that you are looking for brackets to fit standards.


3

Based on the flexibility of the flat bar stock, I decided to use square 1/2" tube stock. Using a 3/4" MDF subtop, I routed channels 5/8" wide and 9/16" deep. I then filled these channels with polyurethane glue, set in the steel bars, and finally I used a drywall knife to spread and flatten glue over the top of the bars. Here are pictures of my actual ...


3

Should be fine, especially for indoor use, where there is little moisture and salt. Zinc and aluminum are pretty close galvanically, so the zinc coating should help. In fact, most bolts used on aluminum-structure airplanes are made of steel plated with zinc or cadmium (source).


2

I think you've answered your own question. The first type of mount is for screwing into a stud, the second is for drywall/plasterboard. You can still use the first type though. Cut the hole for the switch in the drywall and then cut a length of batten just longer that the hole. Then fix this to one side of the hole inside the cavity. This is the tricky ...


2

From what you have described, I'd probably use a 1x4.


2

I would. It doesn't look like it could hold 100#. You should be able to attach the angle braces from the top and still get the load capacity that you're looking for without sacrificing your workspace.


2

Something like this? A framing angle. Home Depot and Lowes both will have them or similar in the lumber departments.


2

How much of an overhand do you plan on having? The spec I saw was that 10 inches were allowed with no supports. When the granite guy came to measure mine he told me I didn't really need them even at 12. I had alread put in corbels which look good, but do get in the way of knees. If I did it again, I would consider going to 10" and not having any bracking. ...


2

I tried to think of an adaptive use of some common building product but drew blanks. That may be why purpose made ones are expensive. If it really seems exorbitant, you might be able to get a local metal shop to fabricate one for less. For that matter, someone with decent carpentry skills could build one from wood. The joint designs would be critical to ...


2

The standard is 67" up to the top of a 1X4 ledger and 12" from drywall for single hanging. the centerline of the closet pole cup is typically is 2" from the top of the ledger, it can be lower, then the ledger needs to be wider to accommodate. That puts the shelf at 67 3/4" to the top. The 11 1/4" shelf will give the room needed to get the hanger on. This is ...


2

One thing to consider if you're mounting this bag on the wall, all the weight is going to be supported by 2 nails per stud that attach the stud to the top plate. These nails are preventing the stud from pulling out from the wall and falling over. I don't have a lot of confidence that you can hang a heavy bag from one or two studs without causing damage that ...


2

10 inches (254 mm) to the center of the rod, minimum. The widest hangers I know about are 18.5", so half of that is 9.25" plus 3/4" wiggle room. Though some hanger rod brackets are ~12" (304.8 mm) to the center of the rod.


2

Half a hanger + the thickness of the clothes would be your minimum, but the vast majority are 12"/300mm, and most but possibly not all brackets are that size.


2

Here is a link to a hand-bending jig. Basically you need two or more pins to hold the metal and you either use the metal itself (with the pins held in a vise or table-top) or a handle attached to the pins (with the metal held in a vise) to bend the metal. What I'm saying in my comment is that the item you pictured is not made of bent metal, it's made by ...


2

To form this strap into the shape below, I did the following: Fastened a 1" pipe to the workbench using screws (I do not have a vise, so this was my best option). Originally, I was using a 2" diameter pipe because I wanted a 2" diameter curve. A 1.5" pipe would have probably gotten me closer, but the 1" pipe produced a curve with an approximate 13/16 ...


2

There are no standard sizes. Braces of the type you are considering most commonly have holes that are less than 1/4" and more than 1/8", somewhere around 3/16". They are usually intended for #6, #8 or #10 screws. You could probably use 1/8" bolts, or maybe 3/16" depending on the brace. 1/4" bolts probably won't fit unless you ream out the holes. Which ...


2

Since this seems to be a temporary canopy, messing around with the roof's integrity (by adding a few attachments) is probably not desirable: it will cause premature aging of the roof and increase the probability of a leak. Obviously it can be done, for example solar panels on a roof, but that adds ongoing maintenance to make sure the fastening system is ...


2

I'm not really sure what you're describing, but have you considered the originals may be metric (9mm, maybe). Furthermore, if you're thinking of using dowels, you should be able to either: 1) Get the next size up and sand down by hand with rough sand pape until you're able to jam it in, or 2) Drill a slightly larger hole in a size you can match, or 3) ...


2

Here is a source for a metal bracket like you want.


2

The adjustment is usually under on the wall part of the bracket. The bracket needs to be plumb in both planes (kind of left and right and then forward and backward). The better brackets are bolted back to the wall and then micro adjusted (via small adjustment grub screws) in all planes until absolutely spot on. Then assuming no play in the arm, all should ...



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