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Washers are used for multiple purposes when mechanical parts are assembled using bolts and nuts. Here are some usages and as you can see it is not likely that a generalized answer can be devised to directly answer your question! Some washers have a special design that attempts to help keep the nut and/or bolt from coming loose. Known as a lock washer these ...

That's likely a cleanout for your sewer line. When opened, you can run an snake down the line to remove any blockage without ripping out your entire foundation. Here's what it would look like from the side: And the cap itself can have different styles:

I start by hand tightening as much as I can, then I tighten a little on each side and check if the toilet moves. If it does then I tighten a bit more, check and repeat until there's no movement. You're trying to avoid bowl movement, so that it doesn't shift or fall over, not to hold the floor up by the toilet bolts. As tight as you can go will probably ...

I would try a Dremel type tool with an abrasive cutoff wheel. Of course you need to be careful of the porcelain. I've cut many screws and bolts this way. If you can't cut the bolt, you may be able to cut the nut, in the direction of the bolt's axis, then pry the nut apart at the cut line.

After cutting the bolt to length, use a stationary grinder instead of a file to clean up your work. With a grinder, it's easy to square up the end of the bolt and apply the chamfer that you want. Just be careful, especially if the bolt is shorter than the grinder's table. If the bolt is short, use a pair of vice grips to hold the bolt during grinding. And ...

Lock nuts and carriage bolts are a bad combination and even worse when trying to use them in material like particle board or MDF. You could try to use a Tee nut from the monitor side and then simply use a short hex head bolt into the Tee nut.

You probably don't want to do that anyway! Think carefully of what your request would mean. A 3/8-16 thread means that the width of the bolt is essentially 3/8 inch, but what matters here is the 16. That tells us the thread pitch is 16 threads per inch. The nut being about 3/16 inches thick means that the bolt and the nut mate on three threads. A thinner ...

Unless your holes match the bolt size very precisely (like, you have to hammer the bolts home), you will get racking, which will weaken the joint over time. Likewise, the bolts will loosen up (use lock washers and check it frequently). It's something you'll have to watch for; as the holes get stretched, you'll need to figure out what to do. Think about how ...

The caps come with a washer-type thing that they clip into: Your toilet clearly does not have these clips. Using silicone is most definitely not the correct way to attach these, so maybe the installer lost the clips or just has never installed a toilet before? It's normal to cut the bolts to length, as the length needed depends on the thickness of your ...

It's called a spanner slotted (or slotted spanner) head. Useful site here. Hard to find in the UK, why the owner used one I cannot imagine. Screwfix doesn't have them. This site may do, although it is international. You'll need to figure out the correct size before you order. Alternatively get a real cheap flat-head screwdriver the right width and file ...

[Gregmac beat me to the problem description, but see the steps to fix it below.] The snap on caps often come with a plastic piece that goes under the washer. This is what the cap snaps onto, and without it, it won't stay down securely. It looks like the contractor forgot about those, or possibly you have a style that doesn't require it and it snaps on a ...

Are you using an eye bolt or an eye screw? OR         For an eye screw, glue won't do much and is not needed. (Although some glues may act as a lubricant when you first screw-in the eye-screw.) Use bar soap or beeswax as a lubricant. For an eye bolt, especially if you want it to be able to pivot, use appropriate washers, plus two nuts with a lock-washer ...

A welded connection can always be made the same strength as the original steel by using a full penetration but weld but this all depends on the quality of the materials used for the welding and the quality of the welding itself. Therei s a very good reason why there is a lot of non destructive testing used when welded joints are being used for structural ...

DANGER DANGER DANGER.... As we speak, I am replacing an entire 5 foot knee wall 20 feet long, jacking the floor joists, new studs, mold remediation, new sills, new top plates, new insulation, floor joist sisters, a very expensive 6 foot slider is in jeopardy. This fix is gonna cost my customer over $3,000 minimum Ants and rot everywhere, all the way to the ...

Do yourself a favor. Yes, you can bolt things to the joists. Heavy lag bolts are probably ok. Through bolts are better, but if it is not an option, then you do what you can. The issue is, if you do just bolt this to the wall of your house, use flashing. Keep the water from getting into your house. By way of example, we have a deck on our house that wraps ...

You can get toilet bolt covers in a variety of styles. The ones pictured by gregmac are a common type that use a plastic washer to which the cap snaps onto. I recently purchased another style that has a cap with an internal threaded part that screws onto the toilet bolt end. The cap kit comes with several sizes of the threaded inserts to adapt to different ...

Based on the clarifications, I would recommend using a reusable thread-locking liquid. Here is a link to one I found that may work. I have not used it. Vibra-Tite VC3 Threadmate http://www.vibra-tite.com (I am in no way affiliated with the Vibra-Tite Company)

If there is only one washer used with a nut/bolt, it usually goes on the nut side. The nut in most circumstances is more movable, and is more commonly turned to tighten the assembly. The washer helps prevent damage to the surface of the object being fastened. In most cases where the bolt is easier to turn, the bolt has a round head that will cause less ...

One thing that will help prevent the porcelain cracking is to use a rubber or plastic washer between the head of the bolt and the bowl. This will take the "excess" force by deforming slightly, and by checking for the washer deforming as you tighten you'll have an extra visual check that you've applied enough force.

You may have a damaged/stripped bolt or threaded hole. Check to see if the threads on the bolt are damaged then you will need to purchase a new bolt. If the threads in the hole are damaged you will need to install a threaded insert or use a tap and die set.

You are doing it the optimal way for somebody that just does it occaisonally. A cut that is more square across the bolt (OK - orthogonal...) can be had by using a motorized chop saw with an abrasive blade, an a grinder will help the clean-up, like Caleb says. If you were to do it this way, you don't need the nut threaded on to clean out the threads. ...

Are you comfortable with cutting the bolt to a length between 2" and 3"? That would be simplest. Another possibility would be to use another piece of wood between your shelf and the wall to create more thickness for the 3" bolts. If the concrete is actually concrete block, you can drill into that quite easily with a masonry bit from your local hardware ...

Under perfect conditions this is not true. However most of us are unable to weld something under perfect conditions. There is always the risk of contaminants, imperfect welds, incorrect temperatures, etc. This holds true even in many industrial factories. For this reason, some very high end cars have their frames glued together instead of welded. You ...

A great tool for this purpose and any similar close work is a ultrasonic multitool such as a Fein, Rockwell etc. Lots of tool companies are making them now. the other tool would be a hacksaw blade holder. It is not a full framed hacksaw, rather a handle that holds the blade and can get into tight places. Remember, save yourself a lot of frustration and use ...

Triple use (as I saw after years of mechanics) : 1) Washers are ofter used to avoid grinding of the support when you screw the nut. 2) Washers avoid the bolt head or the nut to penetrate/damage the support. 3) Washers help things moving in boltened assemblies if you oil them a bit (eg. articulations).

You may want to consider one of the various style of commercial bracket assemblies designed to mount antenna masts onto chimneys and concrete columns. Here are some examples:

If the bolt is just slightly slipping, and not really "free spinning" you could look to deform slightly the threads of either the bolt or the hole (or both), so that they don't slip anymore. I used this successfully to fix a landscape lighting fixture that had a 2-part post where the threading between the sections was stripped. Slightly tapping each part of ...

Is there room to add a second nut? If so, use a second nut as a "jam nut" to act as a locknut: slightly overtighten the inner one, put on the outer one so that it will allow the inner to move out only to where you want it to end up, then "loosen" the inner one 'til it touches the outer one, then use two wrenches to tighten the outer while loosening the ...

Try mixing something gritty with something gooey that won't dry out. Heavy-weight grease plus sand might do the trick. Basically you're trying to make threadlocker compound but without the property that it dries out. Try it out on another bolt/nut combo FIRST, to see if it works, before gumming up your target bolt. You may be overthinking this one, though. ...

Most washers will flex somewhat, so unless it's a really small pipe, or you're installing in really cold temperatures, you shouldn't worry ... but I'd be more concerned with being able to hold the nut still while you're trying to bolt to it in a smaller diameter pipe. (I don't know if the 1.5" is ID or OD, but if it's outer diameter, and it's got any ...