Hot answers tagged bolts
Washers are used for multiple purposes when mechanical parts are assembled using bolts and nuts. Here are some usages and as you can see it is not likely that a generalized answer can be devised to directly answer your question! Some washers have a special design that attempts to help keep the nut and/or bolt from coming loose. Known as a lock washer these ...
That's likely a cleanout for your sewer line. When opened, you can run an snake down the line to remove any blockage without ripping out your entire foundation. Here's what it would look like from the side: And the cap itself can have different styles:
If there was only one washer, it generally will go on the nut side as the nut has less surface area in contact with the thing being connected than the bolt side.
I start by hand tightening as much as I can, then I tighten a little on each side and check if the toilet moves. If it does then I tighten a bit more, check and repeat until there's no movement. You're trying to avoid bowl movement, so that it doesn't shift or fall over, not to hold the floor up by the toilet bolts. As tight as you can go will probably ...
After cutting the bolt to length, use a stationary grinder instead of a file to clean up your work. With a grinder, it's easy to square up the end of the bolt and apply the chamfer that you want. Just be careful, especially if the bolt is shorter than the grinder's table. If the bolt is short, use a pair of vice grips to hold the bolt during grinding. And ...
I would try a Dremel type tool with an abrasive cutoff wheel. Of course you need to be careful of the porcelain. I've cut many screws and bolts this way. If you can't cut the bolt, you may be able to cut the nut, in the direction of the bolt's axis, then pry the nut apart at the cut line.
It's called a spanner slotted (or slotted spanner) head. Useful site here. Hard to find in the UK, why the owner used one I cannot imagine. Screwfix doesn't have them. This site may do, although it is international. You'll need to figure out the correct size before you order. Alternatively get a real cheap flat-head screwdriver the right width and file ...
DANGER DANGER DANGER.... As we speak, I am replacing an entire 5 foot knee wall 20 feet long, jacking the floor joists, new studs, mold remediation, new sills, new top plates, new insulation, floor joist sisters, a very expensive 6 foot slider is in jeopardy. This fix is gonna cost my customer over $3,000 minimum Ants and rot everywhere, all the way to the ...
Unless your holes match the bolt size very precisely (like, you have to hammer the bolts home), you will get racking, which will weaken the joint over time. Likewise, the bolts will loosen up (use lock washers and check it frequently). It's something you'll have to watch for; as the holes get stretched, you'll need to figure out what to do. Think about how ...
Lock nuts and carriage bolts are a bad combination and even worse when trying to use them in material like particle board or MDF. You could try to use a Tee nut from the monitor side and then simply use a short hex head bolt into the Tee nut.
A welded connection can always be made the same strength as the original steel by using a full penetration but weld but this all depends on the quality of the materials used for the welding and the quality of the welding itself. Therei s a very good reason why there is a lot of non destructive testing used when welded joints are being used for structural ...
The caps come with a washer-type thing that they clip into: Your toilet clearly does not have these clips. Using silicone is most definitely not the correct way to attach these, so maybe the installer lost the clips or just has never installed a toilet before? It's normal to cut the bolts to length, as the length needed depends on the thickness of your ...
A typical toilet has a flange that's bolted to the floor and stays there. Bolts are then turn upside down, with the head down, and the toilet sits on these. The threaded end faces up and the nut goes onto it. So, a typical toilet install is closet bolts that have threads facing up. No need to go under the floor, be it a 3rd floor bathroom, a 1st floor ...
I think that's a Spanner bit:
Are you using an eye bolt or an eye screw? OR For an eye screw, glue won't do much and is not needed. (Although some glues may act as a lubricant when you first screw-in the eye-screw.) Use bar soap or beeswax as a lubricant. For an eye bolt, especially if you want it to be able to pivot, use appropriate washers, plus two nuts with a lock-washer ...
If there is only one washer used with a nut/bolt, it usually goes on the nut side. The nut in most circumstances is more movable, and is more commonly turned to tighten the assembly. The washer helps prevent damage to the surface of the object being fastened. In most cases where the bolt is easier to turn, the bolt has a round head that will cause less ...
[Gregmac beat me to the problem description, but see the steps to fix it below.] The snap on caps often come with a plastic piece that goes under the washer. This is what the cap snaps onto, and without it, it won't stay down securely. It looks like the contractor forgot about those, or possibly you have a style that doesn't require it and it snaps on a ...
One thing that will help prevent the porcelain cracking is to use a rubber or plastic washer between the head of the bolt and the bowl. This will take the "excess" force by deforming slightly, and by checking for the washer deforming as you tighten you'll have an extra visual check that you've applied enough force.
You have the basics down pat. The key to getting the threads working properly is: Squaring off the thread end of the bolt. Yes, the hacksaw blade will follow the threads slightly. If you have a bandsaw with a stock holding vise that can be squared to the blade, run a single nut on so the hexes will hold the bolt in place as straight to the blade as ...
Lag screws should be fine. If possible, have them go into the ends of the floor joists as well. You can probably see where they are from the outside by looking at where the nails are in the rim joist.
Two nuts can be tightened against each other so that they won't come loose. A single nut can be tightened against whatever it's holding, and if that's wood, the nut can loosen as the wood changes size with changes in humidity.
This sounds like old school plaster on metal mesh, common for that era in apartments and condos. Hard as a rock. However, you'd have to open up the wall to find the concrete block that's most likely behind it, because the plaster is only supported by furring strips tacked into the blocks with nails. Do not be fooled if your stud-finder scores a hit. Don't be ...
Are you comfortable with cutting the bolt to a length between 2" and 3"? That would be simplest. Another possibility would be to use another piece of wood between your shelf and the wall to create more thickness for the 3" bolts. If the concrete is actually concrete block, you can drill into that quite easily with a masonry bit from your local hardware ...
Based on the clarifications, I would recommend using a reusable thread-locking liquid. Here is a link to one I found that may work. I have not used it. Vibra-Tite VC3 Threadmate http://www.vibra-tite.com (I am in no way affiliated with the Vibra-Tite Company)
You can get toilet bolt covers in a variety of styles. The ones pictured by gregmac are a common type that use a plastic washer to which the cap snaps onto. I recently purchased another style that has a cap with an internal threaded part that screws onto the toilet bolt end. The cap kit comes with several sizes of the threaded inserts to adapt to different ...
your question is "what is this thing called", and I agree that T-nut is a good answer, but when you described your application, perhaps what you're looking for could be called a "leveling foot".
You are not going to find this on a shelf, you may get one from the manufacturer of the chair, if you talk nice and beg. Otherwise the chance is slim. I would get a pan or philister head machine screw with the threaded portion about 1" longer than the screw pictured is over all. Chuck 3/4" of the threaded end in a drill and crank it down. Turn on the drill, ...
These are usually a cam lock assembly. The insert needs to be turned about a half rotation to release it from the cam bolt. Here is a picture of what one of these things look like.
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