Hot answers tagged

9

Okay, so I think I figured out the reason, and I learned a lot about HVAC in the process. The answer is that a ceiling fan is moving air at basically zero "static pressure." Static pressure in an HVAC context means the amount of resistance that the air has to moving. In a free environment, that's zero, or close to it, but in a tightly restricted system of ...


6

It does sound like the biggest opponent the AC is facing is the large picture window. I'm guessing it's just not a well insulated and/or not high-e glass and just letting too much heat in. For starters, close the internal blinds. If that isn't enough, consider some exterior blinds. These aren't terribly expensive and shouldn't be something that the landlord ...


6

This may be as simple as the "start" or "run" capacitor going south (because the motor starts but dies afterwards, I suspect that the run capacitor is blown). If you are comfortable digging around in the control box for the furnace, then you should be able to find 1 or 2 large-ish capacitors. If you have a multimeter, you can test them against the specs ...


5

Some motors have a start up noise, and is normal for that type of motor. My table saw does this. Starts out a loud 60 Hz hum which quickly increases in frequency as the motor spins up, then gets inaudible or washed out by rushing air when full speed is reached. Motors that do this are not really appropriate for residential blowers. It also possible it's not ...


5

After a bit of research, (translated: "mad google skills") I found an article claiming that lowering the blower speed may increase efficiency. I'm not completely convinced on this, since the claim is made by a company that sells variable speed blowers for retrofitting HVAC systems. I would think adjusting the heating element would save more energy than ...


4

Sounds like your blower may be done but I am not really sure. One thing to try is to call your Gas or Electric company and see if you have a service plan. Some utility companies include a service plan charge on your monthly bill (and you might not even know about it) and it includes 24 hour service.


4

Empirical Engineering Answers: Yes: you will save electricity costs by running your blower on low. No: you will not save on gas/oil costs by running your blower on low. Because the slower air velocity over the heat element is transferring fewer BTU units into the circulated air and they simply go up the exhaust pipe. The NET difference of the above two ...


4

If the furnace manufacturer supplies different burners for that unit you may be risking premature failure. The heat exchanger can be overheated and burned out if the blower does not remove enough heat. Proper duct sizing can resolve the issue you are having. Sometimes you have to add more ducts to achieve the proper pressure and velocity.


4

The blower very likely does spin at different speeds when heating vs. cooling. This is not uncommon at all. In heating mode they typically are on a low speed, while in cooling or fan mode they are typically on high speed. As such, it could certainly be the case that there is some imbalance in your blower that excites a harmonic frequency of your furnace at ...


4

Squirrel cage blowers make great fans. Black is ground, white-negative and red-positive. Looks like blue, white and red coming from the motor. Read the info on the motor, it should have split capacitor in it, may have to change the wiring from 220 to 110. Looks like a 1/4-1/5 horse. Ask a local HVAC guy, feed his ego and be rewarded. If its a 110 just throw ...


4

I would suggest using a small shopvac instead of an air compressor, for several reasons. Air from compressors contains moisture which can harm electronics. If you want anything more than a few seconds of air, you'll need a compressor with a high CFM output or a large tank. This means more money than you're willing to spend. I've got this 1 gal. compressor, ...


4

Are you looking for something smaller than this? Porter Cable Pancake Air Compressor To get any kind of are pressure / volume, you need a compressor of a decent size. Those little mini compressors can inflate something, but it takes a long time and they don't have the volume of air necessary to blow dust.


4

Just because the furnace fan is rated at 3/4 or more horsepower, does not mean that it is actually running at that power level. To clarify this, consider the extreme with an electric motor with nothing connected (just a shaft sticking out) spinning at full speed: it uses almost no power: perhaps as little as 3 watts, even though its ratings plate says 700 ...


3

The apartment is gaining more heat throughout the day than the AC is able to remove. Unfortunately, as a renter, there isn't much you can do about this. The real solution is to improve the building's insulation, plant shade trees, replace old windows with Low-E ones, add radiant barriers, etc. But all of those options would lie with the landlord, not you, ...


3

In addition to DA01's excellent answer, here are a few more suggestions that may give you enough minor improvements to prevent having to upgrade your A/C system. Be sure that the output vents in all rooms are all the way open, and open the interior doors of every room with an output vent (though opening doors may be less important if each room has its own ...


3

There are a multitude of blowers out there. The outside breaker you mention likely has no relation to this problem. The pipes are indeed freezing due to too little airflow. Here are the most likely causes and solutions for this: Assuming you have one of the most common PSC types (and not some other type like an ECM, slip induction, etc), then a weak run ...


3

Most furnaces use a preset, adjustable, time delay circuit to control the start of the blower motor. Some higher end models may use a temperature sensor to determine when the blower should come on, but this is a less common setup. It's possible that something in the furnace is broken and/or configured incorrectly, but it's more likely that the thermostat has ...


3

You are going to need something with a storage tank. The little "inflater" type compressors basically use the tire, ball, etc. as the storage tank. Because of this, they are not going to be able to blow air with any force. If you're just looking to blow dust from your keyboard, why not use compressed gas in a can? don't try to fill your tires with ...


2

I would contact the manufacturer of the fireplace; either by phone or on the web, they should have a blower designed for your fireplace. They may also provide instructions on hooking it up, or offer installation as a service.


2

This could be a bad draft inducer motor. This is a little motor that runs for a short while whenever your thermostat calls for heat and the furnace is in its initial firing + warmup stage. Our furnace failed this component (when it was only around 2yrs old), and the entire house would know when the furnace started running. Vibrations around the equipment ...


2

According to the manufacturer's documentation, your furnace should have a 3 or 4 speed blower motor. The problem is, the furnace control module doesn't use a separate speed when the unit is running in continuous FAN mode. When the R-G circuit is made, the blower motor operates on heating speed. The control module only uses two speeds, one for COOL, ...


2

This problem can be multi-faceted. Someone could guess all day long as to what the problem(s) is / are and not even come close. Air conditioning isn't something to guess at. It's like having a rattle on a car and taking the approach of replacing one part at a time to find the rattle. It would be cheaper to just buy a new car. ( I give that as an example you ...


2

Yes, that should be either plugged, or plumbed as a secondary drain. A 3/4" MNPT plug should do the trick.


2

As it sounds like it's an electronically commutated motor (ECM). My advice is to grab the control board, blower, and transformer out of the furnace. Then connect everything up as it was in the furnace. You should then be able to use the R and G thermostat terminals, to turn the fan on and off. You will have to bypass any limit circuits on the board, but ...


1

If you want anything close to an accurate answer. You're going to have to tell us a bit more about the wiring between the thermostat and the furnace, or include some photos of the wiring. And include make, and model numbers for all the equipment involved. Most furnaces manage the blower themselves during a heat call, i.e. the thermostat simply energizes ...


1

The cooling test sequence for this board, says to jumper Y & G to R. Make sure the fan comes on, and spins up to the proper speed. Then remove the jumpers, and check the fan off delay. If the blower does not come on, verify that the COOL terminal is energized. Use a voltmeter between COOL and neutral, and verify 120 volts (with jumpers in place). If ...


1

If you think it is harmonic resonance, changing the length or diameter of the PVC pipe can help stop it. Refer to this prior question for more details: How do I prevent harmonic resonance hum in PVC vent of newly installed hot water heater?


1

Air ducts are designed for a specific cfm, as the thermostat starts reaching set point and throttling back the cfm the variable blower will not produce adequate air flow to the second floor to the registers at the end of the run. Most air ducts are not perfectly designed. Second floors need more air flow in the summer. Heat rises in the winter.


1

Does the ratio of static pressures between two stories differ at different blower speeds? That's a very interesting question, but I believe it's a moot point. Any dramatic difference would mean your system isn't balanced correctly in the first place. (needs zoning, split systems, or an actual balancing) Stack effect will cause plenty of heat to go upstairs, ...



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