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Try replacing/cleaning the shower head extension (the bit between the shower arm and the head), as they sometimes have screens/restrictions that get gunked up. You'll always have less water volume out of the shower head, than you do from the tub spout. But if the flow out of the head has reduced over time, it's likely due to mineral deposits.


Hard water deposits can wreak havoc on the metal faucets and plumbing in your home. Mineral deposits are just that the dissolved salts from calcium and magnesium. They build up over time on surfaces continually in contact with water. Remove the showerhead and let it soak over night in a container of white vinegar. For faster results soak in a store bought ...


What do you do if the gap between top of tub and bottom row of tile is about 1/2". Can you caulk a gap that wide and deep? I have seen sanded caulk in colors. Has anyone tried that product?


I have galvanized in my commercial building only for feeding fixtures such as toilets and sinks. I am replacing what was installed in 1947, much of it was ready to fail but it still lasted almost 70 years and yes the fixtures and shutoff valves also needed replaced. Brass is way too expensive to justify but for a drinking fountain, use copper.


While caulk is fairly elastic, it handles better under compression than tension. By filling the tub all the way, you expand the gap quite a bit. Once the caulk is applied and the tub drained, the caulk compresses. During normal use, the caulk will likely never be in tension. As you'd have to add more weight than a tub full of water, before the caulk had to ...


Depends on the tub, to some extent, and how (or if) it was bedded when installed. Acrylic, fiberglass and thin steel tubs do noticeably deform with a load, especially if not bedded (I'm a fan of the good old plaster bed under the tub.) Most cast-iron tubs don't deform to any noticeable extent.


the water pulls the tub to the position it is in when you take a bath the sides slitly deflect and it pulls down from the surround so filling is the best practice to fill the voids and have a longer lasting seal that wont leak


With a funnel, pour hot water first and then vinegar generously into the overflow drain, wiggling the lift linkage in all directions and let it sit over night. Repeat the process as needed . Finally, I put a big flat head screw driver under the pin and put something between the screw driver and the bottom of the overflow opening. Push the screw driver ...


We had same problem... It was the water shut off leak (stems), as indicated on list above. If those terms aren't clear to you, it means your hot and cold water knobs on shower do not completely shut off water and are leaking all the time. Ours didn't leak next to the tub; the leak appeared from the wall nearby. A good amount of water, hours after shower. ...


that is the Moen 'tear drop'...I believe.

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