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Fish it out. A piece of gum (or tape) on the end of a stick might work, as might a clipped coat hanger with a 90° hook at one end.


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galvanized will work fine for a long, long time. Yes, in time (40-60 years) you may get enough corrosion to affect water flow, but by that time, you or someone else will have changed out the trim 3-4 times.


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If you clean the the caulk of and use 100% silicone caulk and your tube or walls do not move more than they are suppose to (natural flexing is ok), then you should have no problems with water at the caulked joint. That is if you caulk properly with 100% silicone caulk on a properly prepped surface, your water is coming from somewhere else. If it is flexing ...


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After a lot of thinking, and reading discussions here and here, I've decided that the augeries are not good. Basically, having the flange would have meant that when (not if) the caulking fails the water would still naturally flow back into the bath. But, with no flange, the water will go wherever it wants to (and homeowners know water always wants to go ...


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I have an American Standard Cadet 2-handle faucet which does precisely the same thing. And don't feel lonely, I do the same as you too. lol I bet the final pesky dripping has to do with the associated residual layer of water on the inside of the pipes after the handles are turned off. Just like an upended ketchup bottle which is empty enough to no longer ...


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plastic behind cement board with waterproofing is essentially suspenders when you already have a belt. the waterproofing is also a vapor retarder so if the red guard or kerdi product is continuous, lapping corners and all, the plastic will be unnecessary. if you think of tile like exterior cladding, it would make sense to leave an open hole in the ...


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Lowes recommends installing a plastic vapor barrier behind the backer board in addition to a paint-on barrier between backer and tile. Source.



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