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13

You can buy bathtub splash guards such as the ones found here. You should be able to find similar ones at your local hardware store. Most versions install in seconds, using easy peel and stick adhesive backings. No tools, no mess, and usually no waiting for caulks and/or glues to dry.


11

Greenboard is water resistant, but should not be used in areas that are going to stay damp, such as tub surrounds. Once water gets into it (especially if it's not sealed correctly, and there's not the requisite gap between the tub and the wallboard), it will slowly deteriorate and/or mold -- it's water resistant, not water proof. Yes, cement board is a ...


11

If it rinsed down the drain and hasn't clogged yet then you're in fairly good shape. Clumping litter definitely can be saturated and breaks down. I'm assuming this is some sort of clay based litter (I use a pine based product myself) with fairly small granules and not a lot of stone. Also I'm presuming that you haven't been flushing the line out with ...


9

It sure looks like you did a beautiful job on your shower, be a crying shame to see all that hard work ruined with stained grout. The glazing agent in the grout needs 8 to 10 days to harden completely. I suggest that you tape up some poly to protect the new grout if you really need to use the shower before the prescribed cure time. A few days of ...


9

Will it be used as a shower as well? If so, sheetrock is the wrong material for the surround. It's going to act as a sponge if water ever finds its way to it. What you could do is put backer board on top of the sheetrock, then coat the backer board with a waterproof membrane (I like the Redgard product for that) then tile. Be sure that the backer overlaps ...


9

Your tub has an overflow drain. You just have to find it. Remove the two screws next to the combination drain toggle & overflow plate. Now gently pull up to reveal the overflow hole and the drain plug: Get out your snake (you've got a snake, right?) and thread it down the newly revealed hole. Also remove the single screw holding the drain screen. ...


8

I had this problem in my last house, but rather than Jaydles' fancy putty, I just grabbed a cheap tube of silicone caulk and ran a bead around the outside of the tub wall. A couple seconds to squeegee it off after the shower, and things stayed nice and dry. If you're not great at drawing straight lines, use good-quality masking tape to get those perfect ...


7

Of course they can as long as you have proper drainage angle and double venting and traps. If this is an installation of a new fixture, you need a permit and a master plumber to sign for the permit. Get a plumber and do it right. Just asking the question tells me you don't know what to do and could get into trouble. Saving a few bucks and doing it wrong ...


7

Any Sheetrock, including green moisture resistant, is not intended for use in showers or any environment with repeated direct water contact. You can paint it , but the results will be the same, FAILURE ! Do not attempt to put tile on Drywall either. There are some new high tech backings or you can use good old fashion concrete board or hardi-backer for ...


7

You need to replace the diverter, which in your case is also part of the spout. This should be a relatively easy and cheap replacement. Usually the spout is held on with a set screw located in the bottom - you loosen the screen and the spout will twist/pull off. Replace it with a new spout and diverter, tighten the screw and enjoy!


7

One more thing is to keep water in the tub when you caulk until the caulk dries. It's a pain to work this way, but flex in the floor under the tub when there's weight in it can help open up a gap in the caulk over time if it was caulked with no weight in the tub. Given that your caulk is doing a critical job it shouldn't have to do means you don't want to ...


5

Yes, they will both be using the same drain pipe at somepoint inside or outside of your house. But the the pipes must join well below the level of both items or the pipe must be large enough for the combined flow, otherwise when you put water down one of them, it will flow out of the other!


5

Most of these systems have some type of collar/sleeve that covers the internal valve assembly. I've seen them unsrew a small amount and begin to rub into the underside of the handle making it feel tight when turning off the valve. I would try taking off the handle and see if you can screw that sleeve into the wall a couple of turns.


5

Were the previous owners kind enough to leave the instruction manual for the tub? If not, you may be able to look up the model online, and get a copy. The last jetted tub I had experience with, had removable jets, which could be placed in the dishwasher (as per the instruction manual). In order to clean out the tubing, we would fill the tub, and add 1-1.5 ...


5

I give mixed reviews to tub refinishing. I have had many tubs and surrounds refinished as opposed to replacing the units. Even though a good refinishing job is not cheap, usually around $300-$400, it certainly is less expensive than the labor involved in removing, framing and installing a new tub and surround. I have found a good sub-contractor for these ...


5

It looks like you might be able to do this pretty easily. To remove the stopper, simply unscrew the top of the handle of the drain stopper, then unscrew the underlying screw in the shaft to pull out the drain cover completely. Then, you'll have the cradle-thing that holds the stopper. You might be able to leave that in place (I grew up in a house that had ...


5

The most common discrepancies in price between tubs, not counting accessories like heaters and jets, are due to four factors: style, depth, build quality and brand. A garden tub will generally cost you more than a simple rectangular built in, and a clawfoot is more expensive still, followed by "custom" installations like non-overflow tubs. In the same ...


5

I'm not familiar with the second approach but, as you say, it would address the root issue of the tray flexing when in use and should prevent the problem recurring. It also does seem to be rather radical. The main drawback I can see is that you are causing more "damage" to the tray and therefore increasing the risk of the repair failing. I'd ask the ...


5

The second contractor is correct in that the root cause needs to be addressed. The root cause is either that the tub was never supported in the first place, or that the supports were made of wood and rotted out due to moisture under the tub. In addition to what Chris said, price a new fiberglass tub versus the repair. Removing the old tub might prove to be ...


5

Cast iron tubs are very heavy and expensive. Rust is not a problem with cast iron tubs as long as the enamel top layer is intact (if you get a chip in it, you can get enamel repair kits). My wife did not like the old cast iron tub in our bathroom because it was cold when standing in it during a shower and made bath water get cold fast. Evidently she was ...


5

Fiberglass Pros: Cheap Light Easy to install Many shapes and colors Cons: Least durable Easily scratched Prone to fading. Acrylic Pros: Cheap High gloss finish that lasts Good insulator, keeps water warm Easy to clean Durable Scratches can be repaired Many shapes and colors Cons: Susceptible to scrathes Porcelain on Steel Pros: ...


5

The cover for the bath plug includes the overflow drain. The bottom has an opening that is your overflow drain. If you remove the cover of the over flow to snake it, exercise care not to drop any parts down either drain. And be gentle with the snake so that you don't damage the drain plug assembly. If you use the plungers, remember that you're trying to ...


4

Admittedly, I haven't done it before but I came across instructions awhile ago (courtesy of eHow and Google). Maybe they'll be helpful. http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-fix-a-broken-tub-trip-lever http://www.ehow.com/how_3391064_replace-triplever-bathtub-drain.html -M


4

Given that it's an apartment the plumbing would most likely have to be done by a licensed plumber, check with the landlord/building manager and local government. In some places the work can be done by anybody, but must be inspected at different stages by a licensed professional and/or the local government.


4

Most bathtubs that aren't cast iron or steel are acrylic plastic. If the crack is right through the tub and water is leaking though, you should replace the tub. If it's an emergency and you need a short-term repair, I'd use a two-part epoxy. Choose a thin epoxy (2:1 ratio) from the selection at the home center and use a putty knife to try to force it into ...


4

Best thing you can do is ask for references. Call some people who had their tub refinished several years ago and see how it's holding up. I've had this done a few times and it's a bit of a black art. They have to be really meticulous with their prep work or the new finish won't last. Also, you need to be careful what you clean it with after they refinish ...


4

Use cement board for the tub area, especially if tiling. for the rest of the bathroom you can use a mold resistant drywall like these. U.S. Gypsum (Sheetrock® Brand Humitek®) National Gypsum (Gold Bond Brand XP) Temple-Inland (Silent-Guard™ TS) Georgia Pacific (DensArmor® Plus U.S. Gypsum (FiberRoc® AquaTough™) After a quick Google search it sounds like ...


4

Honestly, It can be a giant pain in the butt. You start with covering it with a thick blanket or two and smashing it with a sledgehammer to bust it up into pieces (yeah, that's really how it's done). The blanket is to prevent getting yourself cut up by flying pieces of cast iron and porcelain. You might also have to bust out the tile/brickwork as well, ...


4

Depending on where the crack/hole is, I would wonder about the support underneath the acrylic of the tub. Was the crack/hole caused by some part of the tub that was not supported getting flexed too much under regular use? If so, then I might doubt the repair kit myself. However, if the crack/hole was just due to some sharp object hitting the tub, then I ...



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