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0

Plumbing code allows this. Styles are not covered under building codes, generally safety and quality are what building codes are after.


2

Remove the two screw on the trip lever cover, and have a look inside. Since you have a plunger style, the linkage bars have likely dropped down out of view. You'll have to reach down the hole, and pull the assembly back up. Straighten out a wire hanger; or some excess solid strand electrical wire, and put a small hook in one end. Go fishing. Try to hook ...


3

Plumbing code is generally unconcerned with the style of whatever fixture you choose to install, only that the fixture work properly and be installed properly.


2

Standard bathroom faucets come in versions that have the faucet handles on 4" centers, 8" centers, or separate pieces that can be placed at any distance apart. I have never heard of a jurisdiction whose building codes require a specific distance for handle centers. But to be certain, check with the local plumber who will be installing the fixture.


0

I had the same issue. Knocking coming from my master bathroom sink and when I flushed the toilet along with the shower. After checking out a couple of blogs I decided to replace my shower cartridge. I had a delco universal one in there. After installing the Delta cartridge made before 2006 the knocking went away.


1

This is a tough one. Very odd to have that "cube" adjacent to the tub with a cabinet so close. The cabinet should have been pushed up against the tub and the cube/cabinet gap bridged, waterproofed, and tiled, so there would be no gap. If the problem were just aesthetic I would say use some porcelain repair, it comes in a bottle with a paintbrush type ...


0

I have had this issue a few times with bathroom fans. I have no idea why the manufacturers don't just let us screw the fans in. The retaining clips are crap, sometimes don't hold well and often are never snug when they do. Yours is really bad so I am thinking it is not in the right spot. You usually have to hold the clips together and push up. A first ...


5

This is not normal. The trim plate should be tight against the finished ceiling. You might be able to simply push the trim plate up, where it will lock into place. If that doesn't work, you'll have to adjust the retaining clips to hold the plate in place.


0

Leave the door open to reduce humidity, better yet: knock out the hinge pins, pull the door and lay the door flat on some sawhorses and give it a good glossy paint job paying special attention to the top and bottom edges.


1

Given multiple issues there, I think the correct and possibly simplest, albeit messy, solutiion is going to be cutting the floor open and putting the pipes where you need them. Concrete is not forever.


3

I had 30 mirror tiles to remove on a wall up a stairwell. Tried a hammer and it bounced off. Had to give it a real hard blow before I could break a tile and then it shattered into 1000's of bits. Next I tried scoring the tile with a glass cutter then prying behind it with a strong putty-like lnife (blade 4 inches long and about 1 inch wide)until it broke on ...


2

Yes, the tile joints do let water pass. The grout is porous, and additionally does not seal tight with the tiles as it ages (causing it to actually pull some water in via capillary action). Many tile materials are not waterproof either. Bathroom tiling is only "waterproof" in the sense that it is a finish material that will not be damaged by water. It does ...


4

Your external list is pretty good, what's missing is an internal list: water shut off valves(stem leaks) Connections between stop valves and mixing valve Stem leaks on mixing valve Shower arm and tub outlet extension: leaks at elbow inside wall It is unusual for these sources to end up on the floor, outside the tub, unless your bath is over a slab. ...


3

Just resealing everything is a bad idea because you might, for example, just trap the leaking water somewhere you can't see it. The water will still leak and cause damage or mold. You really need to find out where the water is coming from. Turn on the shower and sit outside of it to find the leak.


1

I had the exact same problem under my bathroom sink. Here's a picture of how I resolved it. The first elbow off the sink is 1.5" because I couldn't find a 1.25" female-to-female elbow in my local Home Depot. I used a 1.25" sized compression washer in the larger elbow to get the smaller 1.25" elbow to fit snugly. Works great! You should be able to do the same ...


0

Taller bathroom vanities are typically advertised as "comfort height". My 5'6" wife strongly agrees that the 36" counters are far more comfortable. Few people complain about kitchen counters being too tall, so I don't know why there's so much concern that they'll be unusable in bathrooms. For small children.. they're not going to be small forever. Get a ...


1

That looks like fiberglass (if it feels pretty flexible its fiberglass, if it pings when you tap it with your wedding ring its porcelain) which could in theory be patched with a fiberglass resin patch. Use the kind with the fiberglass mesh, not just Bondo it will crack. Or you could try West Systems G/Flex Epoxy Kit WSY-650K, I've used it to do some hairy ...


0

Yes there is a rapid set thinset, big box stores have it. Fortified thinset that you have is good stuff, I used it in all my install for my bath renovations. 2 days time is not enough time for thinset to get a strong bond, enough to step on but easy to pull, any longer you would have had a tougher time. The amount of thinset you use is crucial, it has to be ...



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