New answers tagged

1

Are you sure the whole fixture is spinning? The type of light rated for wet locations used to have a rubber seal and screw fittings. Most of the time the "jelly jar" type fixtures the glass needed to be unscrewed (and they do get stuck and feel like they are going to break). There were some the metal ring was threaded holding the glass in place. So it could ...


1

Borax and Tea Tree Oil will kill mold and hinder the growth of mold, if not completely wiped from the area after cleaning. There are many methods for cleaning mold, but cleaners like Bleach or Ammonia only help clean off what is on the surface, they don't get deep into porous materials like wood or drywall, and they should be cleaned off after; so they ...


2

The plumber most likely didn't bring it up because (1) he doesn't know much about the height requirements nor is he required to or (2) he is just there to do the plumbing or a combination of both 1 and 2. Next, basically the general rule is that things like this can be 'grandfathered' in, so long as they aren't touched. Since you were code compliant at the ...


1

I second the recommendation to use "matching tile" (from the floor) as the baseboard. Plus it's water proof and easier to clean. You probably shouldn't use MDF anyway since it can swell with water. A few other places recommend 4" high or even 6" (whatever looks good to you, or whatever matches any other "step ups" in your bathroom). Some also recommend ...


0

If this is a simple 115 volt system then running the wire from your switch is the wrong way of doing it unless the two wire power supply goes into the switch box to use. The answer telling you to extend the power and nutural wires plus ground from the light to the fan is the only way to control the light and fan together, that's a plus for Tester101


2

lol lol Walls don't breathe and you already have them completly covered, with drywall mud and paint. I don't think your friend is quite qualified to tell you anything when he has no idea what he's talking about. Tile all the walls all the way up if you want to.


1

Is it an option to have pipes above floor level but boxed in Yes. But if the hot and cold water supply pipes in and are metal (copper) and have supplementary equipotential bonding - I think you need to make sure the bonding clamps are easily accessible without tools. Ditto for isolating valves (for when you want to replace taps). You don't need much ...


1

So it doesn't keep leaking indefinitely I assume, or you wouldn't know that it doesn't leak after using the tub because it would always be leaking continuously. My assumption is that because your faucet is much lower than the shower-head, the water left in the pipe that leads to the shower-head is slowly dripping out after you turn off the shower. Mine does ...


0

There are two approaches to this problem: use dual pole switches to control the fan and each light simultaneously -- this is the best approach if the lights and fan all are on the same circuit from the panel use a dual relay to control the fan circuit from the light circuits -- this is the best approach if the fan and lights are on separate circuits, or if ...


2

Various things to check: Is there a way for air to ENTER the bath? A fan will expel air, but only when there is makeup air to replace it. Make sure there is a sufficient gap under the bathroom door. (An easy way to test this issue is to run the fan with and without the door open and see if there is a difference) as others have stated, make sure the fan is ...


2

My guess is that you're trying to raise the tile to match the existing hall floor level. For my fraction-oriented friends, the material that was removed is about 1 inch thick. Foam is generally not suitable as a tile substrate. However, a direct mortar/cement bond with the concrete slab will do very well to dampen sound. There's no reason that you can't ...


3

No no no. You do not put a subfloor on good concrete. You are then allowing for a moisture sandwich (which is bad). Buy a modified thinset, put tiles on thinset, grout, then you are done.


1

Plastic stapled to the face of the wall will work as you noted. Also any thin veneer such as a door skin so it overlaps the opening will prove to be a bit more rigid if that matters and is easily cut with a utility knife. if you can't hit he studs the door skin should still remain in place with only some small box head-type nails.


1

Some basic comments on what I would do: First I see that you cut out a 18-24 inches beyond the tub. That is fine. But I like to see a 2x4 right where you would put a shower curtain up and another to the far right to help handle the drywall. Flip these 2x4s on their side since you have electric. If your gap is too big then add 1/4" drywall behind ...


1

OP's comment: "The flooring is coming up next." So this is a gut job. Remove the rest of that wall's drywall and shim every stud with 2x4s attached to their sides, letting them project as needed (a six foot level is your friend here). Drywall is the enemy. Big hole/little hole = same amount of work. Use an 'F' profile style Metal Bullnose Tile Strip. ...


2

I see that the floor tile (and possibly the plumbing, a cement bed, or whatever) prevent you from moving the tub. That was going to be my first suggestion. If it's a possibility, do that. Move it only as far as necessary toward the long wall to make it flush with the cement board. Otherwise, I also see that you have the drywall cut back some distance on the ...


0

Bending cheap vinyl tile 90 deg to fit the join between the bath panel and the floor will result in cracks and leaks, and your wooden floor will be wet again. Lay the vinyl tile on the floor up to the bath panel just as if you thought that brown plastic was tres chic. Use recommended adhesive and seal all the joints, tile to tile and tile to plastic. Then, ...


0

You can glue water you want to the side of your bathroom. Will it hurt anything? No. Will it look good? Highly debatable.


4

The reason that 90 degree turns (or any tight radius bends) in duct systems are discouraged are because they reduce air-flow. The friction that is encountered by the moving air as it hits the wall of the turn slows it down decreasing the distance it can travel. There are equations that can be used to calculate the number of bends before air performance is ...


5

We've got several things going on here: This is a ridge-mounted, Slant-Back Roof Vent -- it's used to ventilate Attic air to the outside. It should not be used for double-duty for a Bath Fan exhaust. Warm moist Bathroom air will condensate on its underside and can cause moisture damage & mold on the roof sheathing. As a Slant-Back Vent, the original ...


0

(this post assumes you are in the UK, elsewhere YMMV) This is usually caused by poorly terminated wires which leads to the terminals and wire being overheated. The problem is overheating doesn't just tarnish the surface, it can also change the physical properties of the wire. Cleaning the tarnishing off is not enough the wire MUST be cut back. The ...


0

I had this problem a while back - simple, use a two gang 2-way switch and wire the fan up as if it was a 2-way lighting circuit, one switch controls the fan, the other controls the light - no backfeed, fans operate when needed (client will have no automatic control however, unless you install a flush PIR in between switch and fan) Dont forget your 3-pole ...


0

As noted previously, cracks in the mortar bed come from movement. What I would recommend, is replacing the showerpan with either a new mortar bed/ pvc liner, or to use (my personal preference) a Schluter Systems shower pan, or kit. It is easier to install, and has the correct slope to the drain, and carries less weight on the subfloor. It will also prevent ...


0

The fix you have done, is a temporary fix, the crack is an indication of movement, the epoxy will crack eventually. the solution in the near future will be to redo the shower pan and eliminate the cause of this crack.


0

Sounds like a washer less faucet issue. Water pressure holds the plate that seals the unit, as the pressure drops the handle can move allowing flow. You may have luck replacing the seals not very difficult. Turn the water both hot and cold off, most of these type faucets the top section unscrews. Remove the cartridge take the seals to a home store or ...


0

I ran a main bath vent to a roof vent for many years after finding the duct terminated in a previously unvented attic. I simply hung the end of the flex duct up under the vent, and did not seal it in any way. It worked fine, and was certainly an improvement over the earlier configuration, with the following caveats: You will see moisture accumulation on ...


-2

wall - ceiling - floor then joint retouch


1

Agree that effectively blocking off an existing roof vent is not a good idea for the long term health of the roof. In my experience ventilation is often lacking in that regards already. Also the pipe should be as short as possible; the longer it is the colder it is at the end and the more water vapour will condense on the inside of the pipe rather than ...


3

I think I understand all the requirements: The natural action when leaving the bathroom is to turn one of the doorknobs and open the door. For safety reasons this action, without any other required motions, must allow egress from the room under any and all conditions. (Thanks Wolf Harper) Also, to solve the specified problem, opening the door this way, ...


2

I'll assume it's the normal use-case of basically honest people trying to avoid "whoops, sorry, didn't know you were in there". Locks must always allow exit, so deadbolts are out. I'd look for alternate solutions: Electric strikes (retractable door-jambs), which secure with the bathroom light on. Now leave the privacy locks on both doors locked all the ...


3

DO NOT BUILD THIS PROJECT. It is not safe. I am leaving the description here for now to retain the comments. For a safe version of the Jack&Jill bathroom project see my other answer, that begins with "I think I understand all the requirements:" Shop for "Electric Bolt Locks (Fail Safe)". These sell for about $40 to $500 but you certainly don't need the ...


1

I'm picturing a felt or paper backing that has been partially dissolved and then dried out. It's probably not much different from what happens when you accidentally lay a magazine in a bit of water on your countertop at breakfast and return after work to find it glued down solid. The binders in the paper dissolve and create a weak glue. You haven't ...


0

You can try Xylene or other volatiles. Because I'm a tile layer by trade my answer to everything is muratic acid. 50/50 w/water. If that doesn't work find s Ace hardware (only place to get this) buy a big hug of 'Wink' brand rust stain remover. Its mainly hydrofluoric acid. It will breakdown any adhesive - The Texas Tile Guy


0

Monkey wrench. But on its own will cause damage to the nickel. To avoid damage use a tough rubber lining in between the contact parts. The wrench works by getting the gap to a close enough size as the part you want to un/tighten, when you apply force to the handle, it starts to compress the gap, exerting grip torque while unscrewing in the axis your are ...


2

You can often determine the whether the threading is right or left handed by looking closely at the first thread between the edge of the fitting. Your picture is not clear enough to tell this from the photo but this shows where to look. That said it is a pretty good guess that you would turn as shown below to remove. This is the conventional direction for ...


2

Your number one concern should be to thoroughly dry all wet materials. Understand that many materials may be wet that you are unaware of. For example, by looking at the photo, I would presume that you have substantial moisture under and behind the vanity. This moisture has probably affected your wall and floor systems to some degree. If you do not dry all ...


2

If the particle board is stable I would suggest spraying the affected areas down with hydrogen peroxide. The hydrogen peroxide will kill mold and not smell as bad as using bleach. (Bleach will also kill the Mold but may cause more damage than peroxide.) After you are sure the mold is gone if the wood is stable it should be ok. Left untreated this could cause ...


3

That looks like a double-ended compression coupling. It is used because most people cannot spin their sinks or houses around to unscrew them. Use a pipe wrench to unscrew both ends of that coupling to gain better access to the pipe.


1

A snake has a long reach, 25 feet, 50 feet, and more. So, if a clog is some number of feet into the piping, you may well need a snake. Alternatively, you can try to plunge the drain, forcing the clog along and breaking it up. Alternatively, you can pour boiling water or soap down the drain, to try to dissolve the clog. If you use strong acid (sold for ...


2

PVC screw fittings are unscrewed in the counter clockwise direction, but that's in reference to the pipe they are attached to. You may be upside down in some of those connections. The popup drain connection is made to the sink drain tail piece. You don't need to remove this to gain access to the trap below, so it can remain untouched. Note that most clogs ...


0

The vent is probably obsolete and can be closed. When the new fan was put in they probably put in new ducting rather than try to fit a new fan to an old vent and the old vent was just left as-is. Ironically the old vent is probably higher quality than the new one. For example, I will bet that the old vent is round but the new one is rectangular. Rectangular ...



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