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List of issues: Getting the space conditioned. This may be really easy or insanely difficult. Depends on what is on the other walls of bathroom and where your ducts are in your house. Getting electric. Should be no big deal. Getting water. Might be a bigger deal than electric but probably not a huge thing. Getting exit plumbing. Given that the ...


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Generally speaking building anything on top of garage isn't be idea in the world, but I'm guessing that you are in need and it's not because you have nothing better to do, it can be done, and if you ask me it is not more complicated than doing it anywhere else. First and the most important thing: WATER PROOFING and THERMAL INSULATION. You should have two ...


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Whether it is hard or easy to remove is really not that important, when it comes to choosing materials for this type of operations. One other thing is far more important: Silicone is organic matter, and like anything organic it disintegrates, especially in rooms like bathroom, which are humid. You should use grouting materials, same (if possible) like you ...


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That gap is to small. Push really hard with the float to completely fill it with grout, giving it one more shot; next time caulk it. Caulked tub surrounds are one of my pet peeves; I'm the one who gets to scrape that mess out. Whether grout or caulk, I like Some Guy's advice: prestress the tub by filling it with water as you work.


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To do what you ask: Disconnect the supply for the fan switch - wire-nut and tape it (it will be going no-where.) If it's a jumper from the light switch supply, just remove the jumper. If the light switch is supplied by a jumper from the fan, remove the jumper and move the supply to the light switch. Put a pigtail on the light switch switched hot, and ...


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Is it old? A modern diaphragm style valve might fix that, as it uses the actual water pressure to seal the valve; not just the wonky operation of a float on a stick. It does have a float, but it only works a very tiny valve that works the big one. Kind of like a touch lamp vs a pull chain light. The reason could still be a very slow leak at the flapper, the ...


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As Reece notes, you may have to pull another wire but in fact they do make these. Combination Double Switch/GFCI Outlet: (Amazon)


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I agree with jimmy that it is the fill valve and not the flapper. The problem is one of water pressure. The fill valve has a float, and this applies pressure to close the water flow into the tank. The idea is that the valve fills up the tank to a certain level of water, and will stop. This is almost, but not quite, how it works. The tank fills until the ...


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If the above does not cure the problem, it may be that the vent for the second toilet is blocked or non existant. The water draining from the first toilet will cause a vacumn in the drain line of the second toilet causing that's toilet water seal to be sucked down the drain resulting in the start of the re-fill cycle. It generally will not be a flapper ...


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Sounds like a problem unrelated to the flapper. The "running" you hear is likely the fill valve. Perhaps the fluctuation of your water supply pressure when one toilet's fill valve opens is causing the other toilet fill valve to momentarily leak-by or open. I have seen this happen before and a rebuild of the fill valve washers (or fill valve replacement) ...


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You should not vent out the soffit if you have soffit vents. The moist air will be sucked into the soffit vents, and cause just as much (or more) trouble as venting directly into the attic. The best option is to vent out the gable end of the attic. Make sure the ducting is sloped slightly back towards the fan, so condensate can drain. Use rigid metal ...


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Depending the diameter of the rod. It's possible you could use a pipe bending tool, like the one intended to bend conduit for running electric wires.


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Remove all the trim covering the valve assembly/s (handles, escutcheons, trim plates, etc). Inspect (with flashlight) for signs of leak source and moisture. Turn valve/s on whilst inspecting to see if there is a leak associated with the actual valve/s assembly/s. Look for source of water. If you cannot at least get a general idea of where the leak is coming ...


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If the leak occurs only when the shower is on, then the leak is after the tap and before the shower head.


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I went a different route. I bought a peel and stick hotel bathtub mat. It was guaranteed not to mold or turn slimy. And it hasnt in four years. I love it. Hotels cant afford a slip and fall or to have mold growing so they really do have the best mat. It has a strong adhesive that keeps it glued to the bottom. I found mine at Safetybathmat.com. I will never ...


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The leveling compound pictured is used underneath a finish floor. The minwax/ bondo solution would provide a durable fix that you could walk on. So I guess it depends on whether you'll throw something over the top of the fix...


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Why tile over the nailing fin? Fill the gaps with drywall an tape and float. You can use liquid nails if you prefer--to attach the drywall green board. Caulk the edge from the tub unit to the newly finished drywall. Once it is all finished you can add a border of tiles around the tub for decoration...i did that once using the same tile as the vanity ...


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Remove the entire shower door and frame and scrub door opening tile and door/frame assembly completely clean and let dry. Re-install shower door properly and completely seal all areas where frame and tile meet with high-grade silicone caulk. Most swinging shower doors are supposed to have a vinyl flap at the bottom to prevent water spray from escaping under ...


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No. The water leaking would then be expected to sit under shower based and on top of the moisture barrier? This might help diffuse an issue for a couple weeks but you would never know and might have a bigger issue. What is your expectation here? If you put down lets say, a plastic sheeting, under backerboard... Well it will have screw holes everywhere ...


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I see one issue that doesn't meet the plumbing code. Before you drain down in the vertical there should be a vent. An air admittance valve will take care of that and probably your dining issue too


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As per the singapore standard is left hand side . only for your own house only you can provide any side but as per building accessibility in singapore is left hand side


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If the wrong colour of grout was used in just some parts of your job, you're going to have a tough time replacing it, as grout often doesn't like to stick to grout. The advice I've gotten in similar situations is to remove all the grout, and re-grout from scratch with the right colour, since colour-matching will be so difficult. At Home Depot here in ...


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Your book is faulty -- 404.2(C) may not have required neutrals at bathroom light switches at one point in time, but it certainly does in the current (2014) NEC! C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the location where switches control lighting loads that are ...


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You'll connect one end of the red wire to a switch, and the other end to the fan.


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There is nothing you can do once black mold grows, I've tried everything. Just throw it away and buy another and do this. When you get your new one after using the tub remove the rubber mat and roll it in a towel to dry it. When thoroughly dry no mold will grow. Sorry to say there is no easy way to keep your mat mold free other that to keep it completely dry ...


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Yes, all conductors protected by a 20 ampere circuit breaker must be at least 12 AWG copper. There are a few exceptions and loop holes, but none of them apply to your situation. National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection Article 240 Overcurrent Protection 240.4 Protection of Conductors. Conductors, other than flexible ...


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I think you have a "chrome" film over the faucet. It looks like the film has corroded badly. I have fixed shower heads with auto body primer (spray paint), spray paint for the finish, and then a gloss coat. This being touched a lot you can try painting it but replacement is probably the better option - and never buy any plumbing fixtures that aren't a ...


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First of all, real "chrome" finishes are actually nickel. Secondly it is not a nickel finish, it is some kind of plastic or cheap metal engineered to look like nickel. Buffing with scotch brite might make the color more uniform, but the mirror look is probably gone forever.


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Im am no expert in this topic, But I do clean metals often. I can only say what I would try. Most of the time the answer is just to polish and clean manually. From what I can see, you have relatively hard water, and you tried to clean mineral deposits off the faucet. The Vinegar was the correct application, however you are left with some residual mineral ...


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That means you either have a clog farther down the line than an 8' snake can reach, or you have a blocked vent. You can try snaking your vent. You can also try running a garden hose down the vent, but you run the risk of overflowing the drains in your house so be careful. Otherwise, you'll need to rent a longer snake or pay a plumber to come out and fix it ...


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Most of the time in a house in Canada you would have 6-10mil plastic over the drywall in the ceiling. However the answer isn't that easy and the vapor barrier isn't needed for sure. It also depends on the type of insulation that you have (faced or not), what other types of barriers are installed in your attic, and really what is on the rest of your ...


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Expanding drain plug, fits into inside diameter of pipe than expands to seal when the nut is tightened.


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A lot of people use mold-resistant drywall in bathrooms. This is normally blue or green and costs a few extra dollars at the hardware store.



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