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Short Answer: Yes, you're totally fine. The GCFI receptacle will "protect" every subsequent outlet, switch, or fixture on the same circuit. Example: On the same circuit, listed from breaker, you have (1) Hallway outlet, (2) Hallway light switch, (3) *Bathroom GFCI, (4) Bathroom light switch, (5) Bathroom fan switch, (6) Bedroom light switch, (7) Bedroom ...


15

If wired correctly, this is fine. GFCI outlets typically have line terminals (power input) and load terminals (power to other outlets, which will be protected by the GFCI.) Your contractor will have wired the outlet in the second bathroom to the load terminals of the GFCI in the main bathroom. There should also be a sticker on the outlet stating that it is ...


0

There are two problems I can think of. The first is exposing the thinset to excess moisture, this will impact the chemical reaction that's part of the curing process, which may lead to a weaker bond and loose tiles. It's easy enough to wait at least 24 hours and then check the tiles to see if they are firmly in place. If a bunch are easily dislodged, then ...


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It won't be perfect, but an Ovalyn by American Standard would work with the countertop hanging over the edge all around. Kohler or Bates and Bates will show an inside sink edge beyond the cutout on two sides.


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They Look similar. Best bet is to check with Cree. THey make fantastic LED products but without a spec sheet one couldn't know for sure on this.


1

I would say that it absolutely should be sealed well all the way around the bathroom, and so that water cannot get underneath fixtures. However, even on a floor that had no sealing at all I would not expect this kind of damage simply from mopping and minor spills. Do (did) you actually observe water being wicked out from the edge? Could it be that the ...


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Essentially, if you had some basic workshop tools you could, you could very easily curve the shower curtain yourself, but the problem is making the curve look professional. Upon bending the tubing (note i say tubing, since I am relatively certain it will be tube) you will most probably create kinks all over at the pressure point of the bend. Your rod is ...


1

A mirror that big will have some flexibility if there is some room behind it. Especially when you press on the mirror such as when cleaning it. I would recommend using a padding technique on the back of the mirror to give it a firm seating against the wall whilst at the same time causing it to flush out against the front inside edge of your J channels. ...


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Listen to these kind people, DO NOT VENT TO THE ATTIC! This could cause problems with mold. Pumping all that humidity from the bathroom into the attic can lead to more serious problems. I've heard cases where the rafters needed to be repaired within 6 months of using this method. READ THIS!! ...


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Yes, it's more than possible to have a vanity be taller than 30". Depending on your height, most people would find a taller vanity to be more comfortable. The standard height of a bathroom vanity is 32" but comfort height vanities are raised by 4" for a total height of 36". ...


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Depending on the type of tap, your hot could be restricted. Many taps will have an adjustment screw that will change how much water comes out when it is fully open. If you have reduced flow from the hot or excess flow from the cold this can make the mixture of hot and cold go too heavily towards cold.


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In general (which is all we can do without specifics of "what new taps") bath and shower controls in the current era include an "anti-scald" feature which deliberately limits how hot the water coming out can be (by some means, which vary, and with more or less effectiveness...) If replacing older taps, this may well reduce the maximum temperature you can ...


2

Let's get one thing straight. Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter protection for personnel is designed and intended to protect a human (or any animal I guess), from being electrocuted (killed) due to an electrical fault. In most situations, the grounding system will handle any direct faults to ground. A GFCI devices is there to protect you, if you happen to ...


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Not a sales pitch, I just saw some of this go in: [Purple Drywall] is ideally suited to environments like bathrooms and kitchens that are vulnerable to the damaging effects of moisture... offers the advantages of traditional moisture-resistant drywall with added mold and mildew resistance in the core and paper You need backer-board if you're planing to ...


0

Your description makes it clear that the fan is not directly over the tub or shower, so no GFI protection would be required. As Tester says though, if it makes you more comfortable you can GFI protect it. Personally I would not bother.


2

I would be less worried with the strict interpretation of what the code requires here than the reason that the code exists. An exhaust fan's purpose in a bathroom is to remove moisture from the room. Moisture and electricity generally do not mix safely, so I would put it on a GFCI protected branch regardless of whether it is required by code in your ...


1

A piston pump compared to a plunger pump, from Wikipedia. The parts you specified from your picture are piston pumps. A piston pump is a type of positive displacement pump where the high-pressure seal reciprocates with the piston.1 Piston pumps can be used to move liquids or compress gases.


2

You can do it using only 12/2 and 12/3 cables like this. Or you could use 12/2 and 12/4 cables like this. Because there will be so many wires in the box, you'll want to get at least a 34 cu. in. double gang box. Like this one. NOTES: I've excluded grounding conductors from the images to increase clarity. Do not forget to connect all grounding ...


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In Illinois this wouldn't be a problem provided it adheres to everything on this list and fits these numbers. Your concern may be that the stack is not a clear vertical run to the roof or that the toilet flange will be more than 24" from it. My codes expect 4" stacks to begin with. A lot of people seem to get away with 3". b) Minimum Size of Building ...


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Your best bet is to consult with the plumber who is going to to do the plumbing. You can move the vanities but you will also have to relocate the plumbing. This requires cutting open the walls (sounds scarier than it actually is). I'd leave 6" of space between the tub and the left vanity. Water damage can wreak havoc. If you enjoy the added counter ...


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The vanity should be attached to the wall but it should have been leveled first before being fasted to the wall with screws. Slide wood shims underneath the feet of the vanity and then fasten the vanity to the wall. You can cut the shingles so they aren't visible and then leave them in there. Here are more instructions on how to install a free standing ...


2

Standard bathroom vanities were made at 32" years ago when many homes typically were 2/1's with a shared bathroom. That means parents and children would be using the same vanity. To accomodate children, vanities were lowered to 32" which is standard height. Now that many homes have multiple bathrooms and even a dedicated bathroom for each room in the ...


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At minimum I would replace the OSB that got wet. It doesn't do well when it's wet. Theoretically that should never be an issue but life happens and sometimes OSB gets wet. Personally I would replace it with plywood.


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I was and still am in complete agreement with paperstreet's answer, buy another tub. I've never used this system. These look like a fail waiting to happen. Available from schluter.com, asked about at johnbridge.com calling them field installed flanges.


1

Poorly preforming contractors make things up to explain problems which they do not understand......this is especially true if said contractors were involved in any way with the installation of the object(s) in need of explanation. As this is the case here, I would like to say that as a retired General contractor and an experienced plumber......you are being ...


1

I hate to give an answer that's not really an answer but I think you need to return that tub. Without a flange there's no way to guarantee that water won't migrate over and around the edge of the tub into your wall where cavity where it will fester, unseen until you have a major problem. If someone has a better, more can-do, solution I'll be the first in ...


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There would be no such thing as "excessive wear" on a bathtub drain - unless there was caustic material being poured down the drain which ate away at the drain pipe and joints.....although from the sounds of it this is far from the case here. For the sake of discussion let us assume that the tub is a quality name brand product. It may be that there was ...


1

These units are designed for the exact application you have. The white pipe in your picture is designed to be used with the special telescoping waste tee assembly that should have been included with the unit. The picture @Comintern linked to is the way you must plumb it. You will need to carefully remove the fittings that are attached to the pipe coming out ...


2

You'd need to reduce the entrance (easy, fittings are made) and RAISE the pipe in the wall (possible but a relatively huge amount of work/expense.) So I'm not quite sure what you mean with "cut down" the drain pipe. As shown in the pictures, I'm inclined to say cut a notch in the back of the drawer for pipe clearance, and get the reducer you need to go from ...



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