Hot answers tagged bathroom
This is not normal. The trim plate should be tight against the finished ceiling. You might be able to simply push the trim plate up, where it will lock into place. If that doesn't work, you'll have to adjust the retaining clips to hold the plate in place.
Your external list is pretty good, what's missing is an internal list: water shut off valves(stem leaks) Connections between stop valves and mixing valve Stem leaks on mixing valve Shower arm and tub outlet extension: leaks at elbow inside wall It is unusual for these sources to end up on the floor, outside the tub, unless your bath is over a slab. ...
Plumbing code is generally unconcerned with the style of whatever fixture you choose to install, only that the fixture work properly and be installed properly.
Just resealing everything is a bad idea because you might, for example, just trap the leaking water somewhere you can't see it. The water will still leak and cause damage or mold. You really need to find out where the water is coming from. Turn on the shower and sit outside of it to find the leak.
I had 30 mirror tiles to remove on a wall up a stairwell. Tried a hammer and it bounced off. Had to give it a real hard blow before I could break a tile and then it shattered into 1000's of bits. Next I tried scoring the tile with a glass cutter then prying behind it with a strong putty-like lnife (blade 4 inches long and about 1 inch wide)until it broke on ...
Yes, the tile joints do let water pass. The grout is porous, and additionally does not seal tight with the tiles as it ages (causing it to actually pull some water in via capillary action). Many tile materials are not waterproof either. Bathroom tiling is only "waterproof" in the sense that it is a finish material that will not be damaged by water. It does ...
Remove the two screw on the trip lever cover, and have a look inside. Since you have a plunger style, the linkage bars have likely dropped down out of view. You'll have to reach down the hole, and pull the assembly back up. Straighten out a wire hanger; or some excess solid strand electrical wire, and put a small hook in one end. Go fishing. Try to hook ...
Standard bathroom faucets come in versions that have the faucet handles on 4" centers, 8" centers, or separate pieces that can be placed at any distance apart. I have never heard of a jurisdiction whose building codes require a specific distance for handle centers. But to be certain, check with the local plumber who will be installing the fixture.
This is a tough one. Very odd to have that "cube" adjacent to the tub with a cabinet so close. The cabinet should have been pushed up against the tub and the cube/cabinet gap bridged, waterproofed, and tiled, so there would be no gap. If the problem were just aesthetic I would say use some porcelain repair, it comes in a bottle with a paintbrush type ...
Given multiple issues there, I think the correct and possibly simplest, albeit messy, solutiion is going to be cutting the floor open and putting the pipes where you need them. Concrete is not forever.
That looks like fiberglass (if it feels pretty flexible its fiberglass, if it pings when you tap it with your wedding ring its porcelain) which could in theory be patched with a fiberglass resin patch. Use the kind with the fiberglass mesh, not just Bondo it will crack. Or you could try West Systems G/Flex Epoxy Kit WSY-650K, I've used it to do some hairy ...
I had the exact same problem under my bathroom sink. Here's a picture of how I resolved it. The first elbow off the sink is 1.5" because I couldn't find a 1.25" female-to-female elbow in my local Home Depot. I used a 1.25" sized compression washer in the larger elbow to get the smaller 1.25" elbow to fit snugly. Works great! You should be able to do the same ...
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