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6

Yes, all conductors protected by a 20 ampere circuit breaker must be at least 12 AWG copper. There are a few exceptions and loop holes, but none of them apply to your situation. National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection Article 240 Overcurrent Protection 240.4 Protection of Conductors. Conductors, other than flexible ...


4

That means you either have a clog farther down the line than an 8' snake can reach, or you have a blocked vent. You can try snaking your vent. You can also try running a garden hose down the vent, but you run the risk of overflowing the drains in your house so be careful. Otherwise, you'll need to rent a longer snake or pay a plumber to come out and fix it ...


3

Expanding drain plug, fits into inside diameter of pipe than expands to seal when the nut is tightened.


3

Remove the entire shower door and frame and scrub door opening tile and door/frame assembly completely clean and let dry. Re-install shower door properly and completely seal all areas where frame and tile meet with high-grade silicone caulk. Most swinging shower doors are supposed to have a vinyl flap at the bottom to prevent water spray from escaping under ...


2

Im am no expert in this topic, But I do clean metals often. I can only say what I would try. Most of the time the answer is just to polish and clean manually. From what I can see, you have relatively hard water, and you tried to clean mineral deposits off the faucet. The Vinegar was the correct application, however you are left with some residual mineral ...


2

Realizing none of this is intended to support a person, or animal, or support anything over a person or animal. Which answer would you like? In order of suggested preference, and holding strength Open up the ceiling enough [24" x 8"] to get a piece of lumber screwed between 2 joists - then patch Open up the ceiling enough [10" x 6"] to get a piece of ...


2

List of issues: Getting the space conditioned. This may be really easy or insanely difficult. Depends on what is on the other walls of bathroom and where your ducts are in your house. Getting electric. Should be no big deal. Getting water. Might be a bigger deal than electric but probably not a huge thing. Getting exit plumbing. Given that the ...


2

Depending on what is behind your backer you need long roofing nails. I use HB 30-40 times a year and and I use the HB screws and long roofing nails. For shower walls that are a little tough I will double predrill for my backer screws. I will use a small bit for the hole then I will through each hole and use a larger bit. The larger bit I just give a tap ...


1

I'd be inclined to add a few roofing nails in critical locations--corners, edges, etc. The nails mostly provide sheer strength, so it's unlikely that you'll see a problem.


1

Your book is faulty -- 404.2(C) may not have required neutrals at bathroom light switches at one point in time, but it certainly does in the current (2014) NEC! C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the location where switches control lighting loads that are ...


1

You'll connect one end of the red wire to a switch, and the other end to the fan.


1

I think you have a "chrome" film over the faucet. It looks like the film has corroded badly. I have fixed shower heads with auto body primer (spray paint), spray paint for the finish, and then a gloss coat. This being touched a lot you can try painting it but replacement is probably the better option - and never buy any plumbing fixtures that aren't a ...


1

First of all, real "chrome" finishes are actually nickel. Secondly it is not a nickel finish, it is some kind of plastic or cheap metal engineered to look like nickel. Buffing with scotch brite might make the color more uniform, but the mirror look is probably gone forever.


1

Whether it is hard or easy to remove is really not that important, when it comes to choosing materials for this type of operations. One other thing is far more important: Silicone is organic matter, and like anything organic it disintegrates, especially in rooms like bathroom, which are humid. You should use grouting materials, same (if possible) like you ...


1

That gap is to small. Push really hard with the float to completely fill it with grout, giving it one more shot; next time caulk it. Caulked tub surrounds are one of my pet peeves; I'm the one who gets to scrape that mess out. Whether grout or caulk, I like Some Guy's advice: prestress the tub by filling it with water as you work.


1

To do what you ask: Disconnect the supply for the fan switch - wire-nut and tape it (it will be going no-where.) If it's a jumper from the light switch supply, just remove the jumper. If the light switch is supplied by a jumper from the fan, remove the jumper and move the supply to the light switch. Put a pigtail on the light switch switched hot, and ...


1

You should not vent out the soffit if you have soffit vents. The moist air will be sucked into the soffit vents, and cause just as much (or more) trouble as venting directly into the attic. The best option is to vent out the gable end of the attic. Make sure the ducting is sloped slightly back towards the fan, so condensate can drain. Use rigid metal ...


1

Depending the diameter of the rod. It's possible you could use a pipe bending tool, like the one intended to bend conduit for running electric wires.


1

The leveling compound pictured is used underneath a finish floor. The minwax/ bondo solution would provide a durable fix that you could walk on. So I guess it depends on whether you'll throw something over the top of the fix...



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