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23

That sounds like a good problem to have. Go to the store and get a lag screw, and use that instead. Attaching the sink to a stud is preferable, and will offer a more solid install. Hanging a sink from drywall, sounds like a bad idea to begin with. So I'd say you got lucky to hit the stud.


5

IRC - 2006 Requires bath fans only if no operable window. Bathroom ventilation can operate intermittently at a minimum of 50 cfm or continuously at a minimum of 20 cfm, the same as 62 Bath fans must meet the design airflow either through on airflow either through on site testing or using their certified rated flow at 0.25” water column. Bath fans must be ...


4

Sure, it's done all the time. Thickness of the wall will likely be determined by the required vent size. With two toilets, two tubs and four sinks, I think you'll likely have to go to a 2x6 wall if you go with a single vent stack, but you'd have to run the numbers. I did run into a code issue with drains T'ing into the main vertical stack at the same ...


4

That means you either have a clog farther down the line than an 8' snake can reach, or you have a blocked vent. You can try snaking your vent. You can also try running a garden hose down the vent, but you run the risk of overflowing the drains in your house so be careful. Otherwise, you'll need to rent a longer snake or pay a plumber to come out and fix it ...


3

When you shut off your main (or any valve really but the main is the big one) and turn it back on you can cause debris or sediment that was trapped somewhere in your plumbing to dislodge. It seems to me that some debris might have gotten trapped in that faucet's aerator. Remove it and see if the pressure seems fine. If the pressure seems fine with the ...


3

A nearly-full-clogged cold water pipe. Pressure builds in time after the clog (giving the initial full blast) but it cannot sustain the flow (dropping to a trickle).


3

First Kerdi can be installed on drywall or cement board. However if installed on drywall it is only protecting one side. The back side of the drywall fails and it is just as bad or worse than if it had an issue on the tile side. All shower/tub areas should have concrete board (I prefer hardiboard). Whether or not you need a Kerdi membrane is a factor ...


3

Expanding drain plug, fits into inside diameter of pipe than expands to seal when the nut is tightened.


2

You need a basin fixing kit. Like this one.... Screw the coarse threaded part into the stud using a spanner or pair of grips after drilling a suitable sized pilot hole. Slide the basin over the protruding threads, use the plastic washers, followed by the metal ones and nip up the nut gently until just holding. The plastic plugs are there for masonry walls ...


2

If the bathtub flange is too proud of the studs to allow the backer board to fit acceptably, the studs should be shimmed out so they are even with the flange. If the manufacturer of the tub says so (and they probably do), the backer board should go over the flange. Find (or make) some wood strips of suitable thickness, and glue or staple them to the studs ...


2

Stock fitting - Male Pipe Thread to sweat (ie, soldered copper) Solder to a section of pipe, screw in, enjoy.


2

I can't quote chapter and verse, but in 10+ years, I've never had a building inspector ask for one. To me, that tells me it's not in the code. Personally, I like timers a lot. To be sure about your jurisdiction, call your local building department.


2

First the only real concern you should have here other than the ability to use your sink is that the ice has made its way to the nearest PEX connector. What can happen is that the ice expands the PEX connector slightly and when it melts the connector is a little loose. It could fail right away or a year later. Not trying to put you in alarm mode but this ...


1

I have never seen a P-trap with threads like you have here. If the metal is still as thin as any other P-trap out there, you may be able to drive something like a chisel down into the pipe length-wise, not to cut it but to crush the pipe down so it folds the threaded section down into the interior diameter of the P-trap, pretty much allowing the threads to ...


1

I have done almost this exact same retrofit. It was a lot of work, but you can leave the existing tub. I refinished mine with a Rustoleum epoxy product, but that's another story. Basically, depending on the tub, I would take everything down to the studs, and start with a good masonry board, and any possible structural/plumbing changes you might need.' The ...



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