New answers tagged

1

Drew is correct. You can remove the bent nails to have your new wall ensure it won't go anywhere. However, you can drill a few small holes, like every 4', out by the outer edge of the flange to pop in some screws or nails...nothing major is needed at all. You just don't want to do anything to the inner "I" that may compromise the engineering. That's actually ...


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actually after of almost two years of observations and logical deductions, by eliminating all the possibilities by making different experiments I isolated the problem to a tube/drain that took the water from my furnace/AC condense water pump to the drain located on the other side of the building (still don't know where it joins the drain because the basement ...


1

I am not sure why some would say no to wood frame, I have done this for years if the basement is dry. Remember if this is a living space it will require outlets every 12' or no space further than 6' from a outlet excluding doorway spaces. I put 2x4's flat on the wall , I run the power to junction boxes in the ceiling and drop 1 wire to the shallow outlet ...


3

Sounds like dehumidification might be the answer. The cause of the dank "basement" smell, is high humidity. Removing moisture from the air is a side effect of refrigeration, which is why the air conditioner helps. A dehumidifier is just like an air conditioner, except that the dehumidifier heats the air back up after cooling it and removing moisture. You ...


2

It's a process, not a "special" material. A good steel trowel job can give a glass-like finish on standard concrete. It's partly technique, and partly timing (or timing is part of the technique.) Troweling knocks down larger particles and brings up smaller ones, resulting in a smooth finish. In many places it's too smooth, IMHO - easy to sweep, but also easy ...


2

If you want to get a smooth finish after-the-fact, there are some great products out there that will set smooth and very thin - a real 'feather edge'. I recently used Henry FeatherFinish Patch and Skimcoat to prep a rough and uneven concrete floor before laying luxury vinyl tile and was really pleased with the results. Once mixed, it spreads like butter with ...


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first thing to understand is gas appliances use different materials and protocols than wood burning appliances. they are not interchangeable. if you have a preexisting ceramic flue or stone flue thats large enough for the new liner, then it should be pretty simple. if its going into a ceramic or stone flue, it doesnt need to be double walled in the ...


2

Clear PVC does exist and you might be able to locate some from Commercial Industial Supply (for example). With regard to gluing wire (insulation) to PVC, a copious amount of epoxy or silicone should work. Luckily, the pressure should not be extreme. The most important instruction is to drill the hole just large enough to slide the wire though without ...


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Looking at the comments to the question, I believe even running the dehumidifier at a higher setting will have it running lots. The amount of moisture traveling to your basement from the open upstairs windows will be substantial, and you will be effectively "dehumidifying the outdoors". I would suggest looking into methods of limiting airflow between your ...


1

Obviously, the soil needs to be graded away from the house (in the back yard). If that means you need a retaining wall, then you need a retaining wall. Regarding the swale, improved drainage sounds helpful. The real question is, why isn't water shedding (what is the real issue)? I've had swale issues, and the problem in those cases, was not with my swale, ...


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maybe i am missing something here, but isn't that a floor drain, just with no cover on it?


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Hairline cracks are not a problem. If they get to 1/4" at any point, then you probably need to have an engineer give it a look over. However, not sure if radon gas is a problem in your area, but cracks in the basement will let radon gas seep in, so it would be worth your time and the money to purchase a radon gas detector. You could probably call your ...


1

Welcome to crap construction in the 21st century, where nobody gets basements, just footings, and those that do get basements get 4" slabs on sand often above the frost line. Whether water comes in is a function of the water table in your area and whether you have proper drainage on your property. There is nothing you can do except install a sump pump. ...


3

Concrete slabs crack. Period. For this reason, "control joints" are often cut or tooled into slabs where aesthetics are a concern. They encourage cracks to occur along straight lines where they create less of a visual blemish and can better be accommodated by expansion joints in rigid flooring. In your case, it's not likely a concern.


2

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this but based on the statement: I had a french drain installed it seems to me like if you paid someone (assumption here) to install a drain and they left it in a state where it is going to cause a puddle to form before water is able to drain into it, that it should be the company's responsibility at this point. At ...


0

If it's a small area around the drain, the lowest cost, least-fuss option is one of these grinding blocks (use with some water and you can mop the slurry up rather than deal with dust in the air. Plug the floor drain first.) The one with the grooves is most applicable.


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A big 7" angle grinder with a diamond cup bit would work nicely. You can also get away with the 'masonry grinding' bit sold at big box stores. You should try to get a dust shroud as well, as even a small amount of concrete grinding will send fine dust everywhere.


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From the description, I suggest renting a proper concrete grinder (bottom of the page) from your local rental shop or big box. This will allow finer control and result in a flatter, smoother surface than if you attempted to use abrasive or diamond-bitted handheld power tools. If you'd rather not go that far, an angle grinder with an appropriate disk would ...



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