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5

You have two issues to contend with. First is that 16 feet is just a bit too tight for two floors. Sure, we usually use 12 inch beams but that's just the structure - you need an actual floor on top and usually a ceiling below. Even if we ignore building codes we will still produce two rather cramped levels. Second is what's actually holding the other end ...


8

That device is a telephone line fuse and surge protector device. The fuses are in line with each of the two telephone line legs. Inside there will be a spark gap to shunt possible lightning on the line to the third center GND wire on the one side. These were common in the vintage days when most telephone service was delivered via open wires overhead on ...


0

The correct way to insulate a basement wall is with rigid foam or spray foam right up against the masonry walls, with air sealing scrupulously done with caulk, tape, and more spray foam, to make sure that no humid air can touch the masonry walls. Once that's done, you can safely build a framed wall covered in drywall if you like to finish the space. There ...


-1

You have not discussed what the trapping of moisture symptom is? It sounds like you found your poly under the sheetrock? It should be against the masonry. Just an opinion. Jeff


0

Buildings (or buying) a house on a location with a lot of water is never best thing to do, but people do it and if they do it properly they never have problems. The most important question is regarding house design; are foundations and concrete slabs appropriate for this situation. Main difference is that with underground water strongest force on the slabs ...


8

You didn't indicate your location or site characteristics (slope, hillside, etc), but the location of the country, even generally could be helpful, but not required. You indicated the water bill was not high so it could not be a water leak. That would only be if the leak was after the meter. However, the leak could be before the meter and impossible to ...


0

You don't want a fridge on a GFCI anyways. Nuisance tripping. In your kitchen a fridge is supposed to be on it's own circuit. I understand that many garage fridges are not on there own circuits. I think it might be more to do with making sure your fridge doesn't trip for sure in your kitchen than anything else. You never know whose plugging a table saw ...


1

You can rent floor grinders. Properly set you can take off a very thin amount of concrete/paint. Then you would likely have to get the edges with a smaller tool. On a side note a slightly rougher surface will help your mortar etc stick to the concrete. I think you're correct in trying to get this up though. Seems like it could be a problem in the future. ...


2

I would use a heat gun. Been here before even on thick drywall with up to four layers of paint. Wear a mask and have good venting. Shaves off with a scraper after heating with ease. Not too close or it'll ignite. Wave it in small 6 inch circles and start in on the edges. Once it bubbles or humps it's ready to scrape.


1

After you remove the floor, dig 2 inches lower for the insulation and pour the new slab to the same thickness as before.


0

We laid thin pad and carpet on a concrete floor in KY basement in 1978. No issues other than carpet style is out if date. Pulled a section for room add and no mold or problem. If dry, personal preference.


3

You'll need at least one 20 ampere circuit to supply the bathroom receptacles, which cannot serve any other rooms. You cannot use 14 AWG conductors anywhere on a 20 ampere circuit, all the conductors must be 12 AWG or larger. The likely course is to have one GFCI protected 20 ampere circuit to serve the bathroom receptacles. One 15 or 20 ampere circuit ...


0

If the crack is visible from inside, you could use an expanding polyurethane foam kit. I've used one from RadonSeal in the past (http://www.radonseal.com/crack-injection/diy-injection.htm) and had great results. You can also inject the crack from outside if that's easier. I'd also check grading (is soil sloped away from the house?) and drainage (no close ...


0

A French Drain will not be that helpful for your situation for a couple of reasons. French drains allow water to stay in a "hole" until it can percolate back into the soil. There is a crack in your wall. Even if you fix this the soil will be very wet near the drain for more time than normal. As your French Drain seeps water back into the soil the ...


0

You will have better surface to screw/nail bottom plate working on original concrete as is. You can and should always level before getting floor done.


0

Is it possible to bolt a steel angle to the concrete with a short leg under the overhanging plate to support it? Difficult to diagnose without seeing and of course bolting a steel might look a 'pigs ear' depending on where it is and what the options are to 'hide' the steel. This is of course assuming that you don't want to shutter up and pour new concrete ...


1

Newer technology: (a) "Floor Comfort" with an R-4.5 rating, moisture and vapor proof and only approx. 1/8" thick, so no issue with existing doors (b) DryBarrier (with raised channels underneath for water drainage) 3/8" thick, was not able to find out R rating.


1

Sometimes concrete just doesn't cooperate. I'd say up to an inch out of play is the carpenter's job to deal with. Two and a half inches! is possibly a problem for lawyers... Had the distance been fudged to one and a quarter inches on both sides, (harrumph) maybe that'd be OK... I'd be interested in what the permissible 'fudge factor' for sill plates ...


2

I would be concerned. Have the general contractor figure out who is out of specification and have them fix it. (My guess is that the concrete is to blame, but I'm not there with a measuring tape.) I strongly suggest that you don't let the house be built out of square. Among other things, it'll cost a bit more at just about every step.


0

After 2 years we had mold behind the blanket on our North wall that is above grade.



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