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8

You didn't indicate your location or site characteristics (slope, hillside, etc), but the location of the country, even generally could be helpful, but not required. You indicated the water bill was not high so it could not be a water leak. That would only be if the leak was after the meter. However, the leak could be before the meter and impossible to ...


4

That device is a telephone line fuse and surge protector device. The fuses are in line with each of the two telephone line legs. Inside there will be a spark gap to shunt possible lightning on the line to the third center GND wire on the one side. These were common in the vintage days when most telephone service was delivered via open wires overhead on ...


3

You'll need at least one 20 ampere circuit to supply the bathroom receptacles, which cannot serve any other rooms. You cannot use 14 AWG conductors anywhere on a 20 ampere circuit, all the conductors must be 12 AWG or larger. The likely course is to have one GFCI protected 20 ampere circuit to serve the bathroom receptacles. One 15 or 20 ampere circuit ...


2

I would use a heat gun. Been here before even on thick drywall with up to four layers of paint. Wear a mask and have good venting. Shaves off with a scraper after heating with ease. Not too close or it'll ignite. Wave it in small 6 inch circles and start in on the edges. Once it bubbles or humps it's ready to scrape.


2

I would be concerned. Have the general contractor figure out who is out of specification and have them fix it. (My guess is that the concrete is to blame, but I'm not there with a measuring tape.) I strongly suggest that you don't let the house be built out of square. Among other things, it'll cost a bit more at just about every step.


1

You can rent floor grinders. Properly set you can take off a very thin amount of concrete/paint. Then you would likely have to get the edges with a smaller tool. On a side note a slightly rougher surface will help your mortar etc stick to the concrete. I think you're correct in trying to get this up though. Seems like it could be a problem in the future. ...


1

After you remove the floor, dig 2 inches lower for the insulation and pour the new slab to the same thickness as before.


1

Newer technology: (a) "Floor Comfort" with an R-4.5 rating, moisture and vapor proof and only approx. 1/8" thick, so no issue with existing doors (b) DryBarrier (with raised channels underneath for water drainage) 3/8" thick, was not able to find out R rating.


1

Sometimes concrete just doesn't cooperate. I'd say up to an inch out of play is the carpenter's job to deal with. Two and a half inches! is possibly a problem for lawyers... Had the distance been fudged to one and a quarter inches on both sides, (harrumph) maybe that'd be OK... I'd be interested in what the permissible 'fudge factor' for sill plates ...



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