Hot answers tagged

9

They look like the form clips where large forms were held in place to pour the walls. They can be handy as anchors if you add furring strips to drywall the walls instead of drilling for supports. They were just there for the pour and can be removed.


7

Drain pipes are generally run below the "frost line" for the region, and should never freeze in anthing resembling a normal winter.


7

For form leftovers like this we usually hit them with the angle grinder and then go back and forth with pliers until it snaps at wall. I wouldn't just directly hammer these as you might be surprised at how big of a chunk of wall you take out with it.


6

I'll give you the same advice I give everybody about saddle valves... Replace it with a proper tee. Turn off the water. Drain the line. Cut the line so the tee will fit in. Install the tee. Install a shutoff on the leg of the tee feeding the humidifier. Install the pipe that feeds humidifier.


4

Honestly if you have a contractor talking about basement flooring in a basement were there is a fear of moisture I would fire him on the spot if he mentioned installing real wood floors. Even in a basement with no "water" problems the humidity levels can reek havoc on wood and warp it. I see a bad wood install in a basement a couple times a year. I can't ...


4

If this is a base plate on the floor for a wall, you're fine as is and it pretty much happens to everyone. The nail is embedded in concrete, the floor keeps the base plate from moving lower, the nail's job is to keep it from moving side to side, and the wall you build on top of it is what will keep it from lifting up the small distance you see there. I ...


4

I will guarantee you that plate will stay there until somebody pulls it up. There is a good bury on the nail point, you could strike it with a hammer if the plate is stable. If plate vibrates, there is a strong possibility that the nail will blow out a big chip and the nail will loose what hold it had. To solve it, use a red load, that should get it down ...


4

They're left over from the forming system the contractor used. You may remove them by striking them sideways with a hammer or repeatedly bending them with any other tool. They're hardened steel and will snap off.


3

These nails are not meant to sink even with the wood. If your framing is done right these nails should provide nothing more than bump resistance for the wall. Your framing should be very snug to joists and let the wood get itself straight. Meaning that the nails at the plates don't do much. When I am framing a basement I usually put in 3 per 8' board. ...


3

I realize this is an old question, however I just wanted to mention something... Tester101 indicated not to drill too many holes within the joist, as it could weaken it and cause structural damage. I thought I should clarify something... The principal force that is applied to a floor joist is moment. With that, you get tensile along the bottom edge, and ...


3

Yes they can, especially in exposed areas. I've heard of sewage pipes freezing in the winter and backing up into apartments in NYC, with disastrous consequences, though the more likely culprit is something that was poured down the drain. You could always pour some boiling water down the drain to see if it would help.


2

Yes, this allowed according to recent versions of the IRC building code. (If your state or region has a different building code you will need to look it up yourself or specify.) To quote the code: R310.1 Emergency escape and rescue required. Basements and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency and rescue opening. Such opening ...


2

End nailing into the brace will not be a useful and strong joint. Instead do something like the following where the brace is made of 2x lumber. Notch it as shown and set on edge and toe nailed from each side. Much stronger.


2

The plumber most likely didn't bring it up because (1) he doesn't know much about the height requirements nor is he required to or (2) he is just there to do the plumbing or a combination of both 1 and 2. Next, basically the general rule is that things like this can be 'grandfathered' in, so long as they aren't touched. Since you were code compliant at the ...


1

The other answers hit the nail on the head--wood floors in basements or anywhere subject to moisture is generally a bad idea. I just wanted to add one more vinyl floor variant that you should consider for a basement installation if you are already considering a click-lock floor. I highly recommend loose lay vinyl tile. It is similar to click-lock vinyl ...


1

Hmm I thought saddle valves are not allowed by most plumbing codes. They are prone to clogging. It is probably scaled up. Do you have water in the holding tank of the humidifier? Close the valve all the way and remove the connector at the humidifier. Put the end into a bucket and open the valve to see if you get flow. If not the valve could be scaled over ...


1

If the red flaps on the red wall are doors, you should be fine, so long as the doors are and remain functional, and cannot be locked in the egress direction - i.e. from the "family room" to the office.


1

The sump pail is there precisely because you can't prevent water from coming in, at least under the slab. It's unclear whether your home has foundation waterproofing installed. It's also unclear why two sumps couldn't keep up. In all but the worst scenarios, one pump should be adequate, and it should only run every few minutes at most. If you have pumps ...


1

From the efflorescence on the walls, I'd bet there's slow steady seepage through the blocks and the mortar. The only solution for this would be an external entrenching and wrap. Also:


1

Since it is a dwelling unit, and the metal is not a roof, then you can wire it like you would any other basement. PVC would be acceptable or MC cable. 1/2" to 1" PVC needs to be supported within 3 feet of a box and every 3 feet thereafter. MC cable needs to be supported within 12 inches of a box and every 6 feet thereafter. Although this may look pretty ...


1

I did a rehab on a warehouse this way, it's the way to go. Use metal EMT conduit and pull the common single-strand THHN wire. You don't have to pull a ground wire, the conduit is the ground (plus, it's screwed or clamped to the building). Use 3/4" conduit wherever you can, it costs little more and is a lot easier to pull wires through especially ...


1

The common way of doing this is to use conduit and surface mount all boxes. The conduit provides mechanical protection (especially important for a shop) and the nice thing about this it keeps everything accessible, in case you want to add lights or a power drop for a tool or something later. Alternatively, you may also be able to use MC (armored cable) ...



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