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Sorry, the ONLY way to do this properly is to get the heater on a properly sized 240V circuit. This can be a 15A or 20A depending on what is shared on the circuit and what the distance is (less than a 150' or so circuit run this is not an issue). If you don't want to do it right and find how the t-stat is wired you may be able to put an integral thermostat ...


Low heat output could very well indicate a improper voltage connection. Especially, as you noted, that the 110V receptacle's and the 220V heater are on the same breaker. The repair would consist of separating the outlets and the heater. Depending on the distance to the heater, this is done by running a 10/3 cable and controlling the circuit with a dedicated ...


Beside air, could anything else be causing the noise? Depends on exactly what the noise is, but I would be on the lookout for thermal expansion. If you have long, straight runs, the pipe can expand significantly when heat is delivered. If there are places where the pipe binds on the supports, it can make pinging and popping noises as it alternately ...


Do you know what you are looking for, valve-wise? A manual bleeder valve on a hot water loop is not usually a particularly large thing - it's normally just a small screw fitting on an elbow. If you are looking for a full-size valve, you'll miss them. If you are only looking for an automatic bleeder, you may also miss them.

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