Hot answers tagged baseboard
24
Pretty easy DIY job. All you'll need is: a hammer, old metal putty knife, utility knife, small pry bar, pliers, and a pencil. For reinstallation, a finish nail gun really makes the job go fast, and a nail set is also useful.
The typical procedure:
Cut away any caulk on the top edge and corners.
Check any inside corners to see if they are coped rather than ...
11
When copper oxidizes, it first turns dark brown (like a copper penny), and then if left undisturbed into a somewhat moldy-looking green. This is normal. If you notice the pipe starting to deteriorate around areas that have a lot of green, this may indicate a leak in the pipe that is introducing more water into the area, speeding oxidation.
Just keep an eye ...
11
Dimensions on your photo would help make a better model, but here is what I might do in this situation.
The easy way
End the upper trim with a bevel (30-45°) at the edge of the stair, then continue in the lower room as normal.
Transition
You may want to use a transition piece to pull the pieces together.
You could even cut an angle into the top ...
10
We usually tack the baseboard in place with one nail at each side, and then find the studs with a stud sensor, marking on the baseboard as we go.
Alternately, I would think that every 12 inches would be sufficient. We also caulk the top of the baseboards with paintable latex caulk (which helps with dusting later), and that helps hold the baseboard to the ...
9
You would usually caulk the gap between the baseboard and the wall. This is why I usually don't bother painting the trim before putting it up (unless I'm staining it).
Usually I would prime the wall first, then put up the trim, putty/caulk, paint the trim, then finally paint the walls.
8
The easiest way to remove things is usually in the inverse order they were put in.
If you intend to put down new flooring, you must remove the tile anyway, so remove the tile first. I'll admit that the scariest thing to do might be the tear out. It forces you to accept that you are doing this thing, especially if you have never done something of this ...
8
A metal escutcheon ring might be sufficient for your purpose. I would fill the hole with steel wool to stop the mice, then cover with silicone to prevent a draft. The steel wool might be unnecessary, as I don't think mice will gnaw though silicone. However, if the hole is large, the steel wool would make it easier to fill it with silicone without having it ...
7
Use a fire retardant expanding foam:
Be sure to turn off the electricity to the heater first, then simply spray it in the gap, wait for it to expand and dry, then cut it flush with the wall and paint over it.
7
I would use a plastic or metal escutcheon as suggested by others, however I would make sure that the escutcheon did not fit up tightly to the sides of the pipe. That is to say, leave a small gap of about 1/8 of an inch between the inside of the escutcheon and the outside of the pipe. You can use silicon to secure the escutcheon to the floor.
The reason for ...
6
Remove the trim by seperating the trim from the wall using a paint scraper. If the trim won't slide up and away from the tile after it is seperated from the wall you will have to use a wood chisel to cut the trim right at the top height of the tile. Once the trim is seperated if there is a piece of trim between the tile floor and the wall that can't be ...
6
I think this is a problem easily solved by Quarter round. Actually I think this is why quarter round was invented.
If the existing molding is small enough you could possibly cover it up, but it might look even worse if the original molding is too large because the cover would have to be bigger.
If you want to cover the original molding you could get larger ...
6
The make wood putty in a range of colors to match different types of wood. You can probably find one that's a close match to your baseboards.
Take a small amount, fill the nail hole and wipe it smooth with a damp cloth. When it dries, lightly sand it and the surrounding area down, then re-varnish the area.
6
We had an almost identical situation in a former garage that we refinished to be an office. Our contractor suggested this and we liked the result: he installed a piece of wood about an inch out from the concrete, putting insulation between them and keeping the wood a consistent and level height - a little higher than the concrete. I can't remember if it was ...
6
My two cents worth..... We always install the base trim and door trim first. If you have split jam doors with the casings already attached, you must install them first or you will have a real problem fitting the jams to the floor between rooms. As mentioned, sometimes the carpet installers can scratch the finish on the baseboards, however it is usually ...
6
This is a simple job for caulk. Just get a tube, run a bead, and smooth with your finger. Allow to dry, and paint it the same color as the baseboard. If the space is wide enough, first try to close the gap by nailing the moulding into the closest stud. If the caulk shrinks too much, after it dries you can run another bead on top.
Note that spackle would ...
6
Do you have space to install a floor flange trim plate? These should be available in a variety of sizes, so you should be able to find one designed to fit around your pipe's OD. They are made from different materials and different shapes (plastic versions should be way cheaper than $10). It should look something like this:
6
If by HMA you mean Hot-Melt Adhesive, that stuff is for arts & crafts, not construction.
You should be using construction adhesive.
LOCTITE®, LIQUID NAILS®, DAP®, and possibly other adhesive manufacturers offer a molding adhesive.
5
Regardless of the religious factor involved in painting hardwood trim, (lololol) if you must do it, you need to buff sand the wood, 150 or 220 is fine for this step. PRIME the trim with BINs Bullseye, pigmented shellac. After the Bins dries, very lightly sand it again with 220-400 paper or 4/0 steel wool. It will be smooth as glass. The shellac will seal ...
5
It makes it easier for the carpet installer because they don't have the baseboards in the way when they're nailing in the tack strips next to the wall.
On the other hand, it makes things a little more difficult to install the baseboard later because the carpet and tack strips are in the way when you're trying to nail the baseboard to the sole plate in the ...
4
I just installed baseboard through my entire house. I caulked the top of the baseboard, as you are thinking.
I used a paintable silicone caulk, like DAP Dynaflex. Once it dried, I went back with a detail brush and painted the caulk the color of the baseboard.
It's a few extra hours of work, but it looks great.
Our painter did a couple rooms, and this is ...
4
The baseboard in my house is white so when I have had to replace/remove some I find the original builder had put caulk along the top. So when I put it back, I too add a line of caulk along the top edge to fill in any gaps and I also think it really gives it that finished look. Of course this would not work as well if your baseboard is not white (and ...
4
Paint difficulties can be resolved by scraping and priming with a shellac or oil based primed. I prefer the polyurethane based construction adhesives for strength and toughness. Their down side is cure time (overnight)
Another scheme would be to cut back the plaster to 75% of the baseboard height with a diamond blade in an angle grinder (yes, very messy: ...
3
I used door trim to break it up in a similar situation. I wanted to case the corner, but I was outvoted by the project supervisor. This is what I had on-hand (matches the doors), I'm sure you can find a better match if you want to make it look a bit smoother.
Looks decent from this angle
Here, you can see it edges out, since I didn't put the trim on ...
3
I see two obvious solutions:
Use a different height skirting (shorter on the right or taller on the left) in each area so that the tops match.
Just use the same height skirting throughout and accept the that level of the skirting changes when the floor level changes.
With the frame to the doorway you can just butt up the skirting without having to make ...
2
The step are:
Sand pre-primed trim
Install trim
Putty nail holes and caulk top of trim and any other place at the edge of the wood. Window stops, quarter round, casing, door stops . The only exception is where the floor meets the base.
Sand out putty.
If you spray the trim, tape off all windows.
Paint trim. If brushed, add paint additive Floetrol to ...
2
I know what your saying... you want to replace the baseboards and keep the tile. Easiest way that I found is to take an angle grinder and cut the old baseboards level with the old tile. I just used a blade for cutting concrete - still cuts through the wood with no problem. Then just take a box cutting knife and score the top in between the drywall and ...
2
Sure. Why not? If you have a brad gun with headless pins, they leave a hole that would be almost undetectable from a few feet away anyway. With a little care about where you place the pins, you might even skip the step of filling the holes, certainly so those in baseboard and possibly in ceiling trim.
For trim at eye level where it may be more critical to ...
2
The main issue would be with covering any nail/screw holes after you've fixed it to the wall. Other than that I can't see a problem with varnishing before hand.
As each coat of varnish darkens the wood you could end up with a darker patch over each nail. However, using the same approach as usual - leaving the last coat until after installation will reduce ...
2
Don't change them. Single line steam radiators are tricky at the best of times, and most modern plumbers have little experience with them. In addition base board radiators make it impossible to put bookcases in. (In our climate they use up all of the external wall.)
There are lots of ways to dress them up
Recessing them is a bad idea, as the space to ...
2
If you must paint this stained wood, a light sanding with 4-O steel wool or 320-grit sandpaper should be fine. All you're doing is roughing up the surface coat, usually poly, which will let the paint "key" to the surface better.
Be aware of the finish originally used on the wood; only poly will take a latex topcoat well, while on most other finishes like ...
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