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Here are some good points against using plywood, the source is talking about tiling a floor but most of the points are valid for walls as well. In my opinion it's better to go the "overkill" route, then have to redo the job in the future because something didn't turn out right. The cost difference between plywood and cement board is negligible, so your not ...

For a backsplash, it's fine to tile directly to the drywall without anything behind it. For travertine, you probably want to avoid mastic. Mastic should NEVER be used on any natural stone because it is an adhesive and will discolor the stone (the adhesive has chemicals in it that will leach out over time). Use unmodified thinset. You'll also want to use a ...

I haven't used KIRDI-BOARD itself, but I have used similar products. Mostly, the biggest advantages are found in weight and longevity of the material. The synthetic foam will last longer than traditional concrete and produce significantly less dust when cutting and installing. The biggest disadvantage will be the cost. Synthetics (KIRDI-BOARD and similar ...

Unless you've got a lot of intricate cuts (tough with concrete board) or expect to have a LOT of water on your backsplash on a regular basis, it's probably just simpler to go with backerboard. I have used a Kerdi-board competitor, Wedi, for a shower and found it very easy to work with. Easy to cut and seal. Comes with sealant (caulk tubes) and fastening ...

As the rest have said, its purely aesthetic. On this side of the kitchen, we took the backsplash all the way to the underside of the top cabinets to fill in the space. Using different types of tile, we made a pattern that we continued on the opposite wall On this side of the kitchen that doesn't have upper cabinets, we stopped it at the top marble bar. ...

There are advantages to doing it either way. If you put the paneling up first, and slid the counter top back so it overlaps the panel a bit, you'll get a very nice looking edge if properly caulked. BUT, doing it this way runs the risk of water running down the back splash, and running behind the counter, creating a rot/mould risk on the cabinetry ...

I'm sure that there will be a lot of surface damage to the backer. Was it sheetrock of cement board? Regardless, remove as much of the old thinset and grout as possible, even it it gouges into the backer a bit. You can refinish the backer with a first coat of setting type drywall compound, or regular general purpose drywall compound. Try to use the widest ...

Seems like most vanities have somewhat of a rounded edge and a backsplash or sidesplash provides a nice clean place to caulk. A vanity seems to be a place where quite a bit of water can wind up on the counter, so I think it's easier to keep clean if you have a splash. What about some ceramic tile? You could put them right on the sheetrock. As for having a ...

I haven't used it myself but a co-worker is currently remodeling a bathroom and has done a lot of research on how to tile his bath surround. His impressions of Kerdi-board: it's slightly flexible, so tiles may work loose over time if it's not reinforced properly. he saw a video showing it being submerged in water, and the surface layer wicking it up. ...

I just finished installing the backsplash in out kitchen using the mosaic glass tiles like you are describing. I had no problems with putting the tile directly on the drywall using the usual thinset mortar you would use with ceramic tiles. I used a 1/8 in throwel with the little/thin tiles and the whole sheet of tile would attach pretty easy. I think ...

Don't bother patching the holes in the drywall. Backsplashes are usually 304 stainless steel. In the US, you could order that from onlinemetals.com. (No, I don't work for them. I recently replaced my range hood and have the same problem as you.) You should get a metal shop to cut the metal with a jump shear. It is very unlikely that you can get a nice edge ...

When applying thinset, put it on in a flat coat first,, and lay it on thick, pressing it against the wall or floor. THEN go back at an angle and notch it, removing excess. This makes sure the thinset has good contact with the wall over the whole area and will bond well. Laying it on at an angle, so it's notched in one pass, doesn't spread the thinset over ...

While I'm tempted to say the difference is just marketing hype, you can use either one, there is a very slight difference in formulation. The window and door stuff has slightly less petroleum distillates in the formula, according to MSDS information at nih.gov. Petroleum distillates will evaporate during curing, so I'm unsure why there's a difference. The ...

An exterior rated product will be good in the kitchen. The version you linked is a "3 hr rain ready" version, so you want to do any tooling ASAP. I like to put 2 tape lines of (blue or other painters edging tape) above and below the joint. Gun the entire line and then "thumb squeegee" the joint. Pull the tape off and immediately touch up with a rag ...

With larger tile that may span irregularities, I would advise 1/16 higher to end up flush. With mosaics, I would go for the same height. Too much thinset with mosaics makes a grout line mess, oozing up and needing extra cleaning. If you are using unbacked glass mosaics, be sure to skim coat the whole field with a white thinset before pulling.a notched ...

A backsplash is there to be aesthetically pleasing and to provide an easy to clean and durable surface behind food preparation surfaces. It needs to go far up enough to catch the majority of splashes, say a couple of feet up, however past that is all a question of style. Some would say that it should stop at a couple of feet high and extend to the ends of ...

Assuming this is ceramic tile - not glass or stone - and you are going to do the standard mastic installation, if there is only mild damage (for example, a few 4-inch patches ripped off) either just ignore it or use joint compound to fill. Joint compound is not strong at all. It is pretty crumbly and soft - i.e. it's not plaster, even though builders ...

With the correct adhesive you shouldn't have a problem sticking the tiles to virtually anything. It might be best to use a ready mixed waterproof adhesive. The tiles will get splashed (it is a splash back after all), and you'll have an even consistency of adhesive to work with. I agree with Tester101 on using cement board to "flatten" your walls. Having ...