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Page 28 of the installation manual (PDF) says this: Filters All G40UH(X) filters are installed external to the unit. Filters should be inspected monthly. Clean or replace the filters when necessary to ensure proper furnace operation. Replacement filters must be rated for high velocity airflow. Table 1 lists recommended filter sizes.


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I agree that proper ventilation will likely go a lot further in keeping your 2nd story cooler than added insulation. I'd try that first and then see if you still want to add insulation. We recently replaced the roof on our two story home and left the insulation in both attics alone/as it was. We didn't add any insulation or change anything else in either ...


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Remember, heat rises. In the summer the second floor will be hotter than the first for several reasons. I found that after reaching a reasonable amount of insulation in the attic which helps more in the winter season, removing the heat from the attic is the best remedy. I installed a power vent running off a thermostat. You need to make sure you have enough ...


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As you've discovered, an insulated attic doesn't really provide much comfort, even if it does reduce heat flow by some amount. In order to get true second-floor comfort with insulation, you need to really, really improve the amount to R-60 or greater, and you need to use insulation that's opaque to infrared radiation, which fiberglass is not. I suggest ...


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The old boxes in their current location will be decommissioned. Whether they get caps, or are removed and the holes patched over is an aesthetic question and up to you (as @Kris says). Since you have access from the attic, you have two choices as expressed in your question leave existing wire and boxes connected, shift them, and add wiring and a third box ...


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There's no technical reason that he can't move the boxes. It would certainly be more elegant. My best guess is that your electrician doesn't like drywall repair/ painting. If the ceiling is textured, that's a strong disincentive, as matching texture is hard. He'll definitely save you money with his approach.


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I'm having trouble visualizing the whole layout. That said I also have knee walls and sloped ceilings. I was able to force attic baffle vents between the insulation and roof by taping them together, then pushing them up with 1x2 sticks. It's not perfect I'm sure, but does allow some ventilation from behind the kneewall to the main attic. Of course, I have ...


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Yes. Very possible. It has to be engineered though. We have plans to do just this. The drawings and engineering cost around $1000. I wouldn't try it unless an engineer has looked at it, drawn a plan and signed off on it. For us we are going over a 3 car garage and the roof pitch is 12-12. So a lot of space there. The plan is to remove the drywall ceiling ...


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I don't see where running your line under the ceiling insulation yes you should try to keep the fitting in the walls but also heat rises and if you insulate the lines i really don't see it freezes. Also if you feel its going the be real cold at times you can alway let the water run at trickle to stop from freezing.


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Oh what a shame you already did the roof. That would have been a perfect opportunity to add rigid foam insulation boards above the roof sheathing. A vented roof is definitely better from the perspective of shingle life and moisture resistance, but with such shallow rafters and an unwillingness to lose any ceiling height, that's not an option. If you go with ...


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Roofs need to be ventilated to remove excess moisture and to inprove teh effectiveness of your insulation. In the summer, improper ventilation can cause attic heat to build in excess of 160°F. This super-heated air eventually penetrates the ceiling insulation into the living area below. In the winter, warm interior air leaking through the insulation can ...


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First I don't totally disagree with Tyler but his answer is a bit ridiculous. Only a concrete salesman would tell you to repour your foundation due to hairline cracks in drywall. Maybe the issue has something to do with the foundation shifting seasonally. But all houses move a little throughout weather changes - humidity and temp. It is virtually ...



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