New answers tagged attic
No, not really. The work you're describing doesn't sound remotely cost-effective, or effective at all for that matter. Running a huge duct from the basement to the attic will choke off the airflow. Not to mention that if you're going to to that, you're already doing half the work necessary to redo the ductwork properly to connect the two zones. It sounds ...
The problem is most likely hot exhaust coming from the vent entering the attic and melting snow on the roof, creating an ice dam and snow melt. Since you have continuous soffit vents, blocking off any one section would not be the end of the world. You would want to block it with an air barrier material like plywood or foam insulation board, sealed at the ...
Use rigid foam. You can cut it with a circular saw, or with a utility knife. Buy a 2 inch sheet that's R13, you an always double it up to get R26. Measure the size you need and cut with a circular saw, it cuts like butter. Make 2 and then attach to each other and the door with silicone. You will still possibly have issues with air leakage around the door, ...
One recommendation is to use rigid foam insulation attached with caulking, liquid nails, or silicone.
Can I screw the blocking instead of nailing it as I'm a little worried the nailing might cause cracking in the plaster ceiling (with wood lath) below? Absolutely. Is it okay to sister a 2x6 board to the current 2x6 board along the front and back perimeter of the finished area to support the ends of the new subfloor since I'll be cutting the current ...
A rigid foam (or ductboard) box in the attic which sits over (is larger than) the door opening. When you open the door, the box is still there. When you enter the attic you lift the box out of the way. When you are done in the attic, you lift the box back into position over the door, then close the door.
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