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International Mechanical Code dies not allow this. It must be direct vented, typically through the soffit with a terminating cap.


I wouldn't exhaust the bathroom through the gable vent. First off, you'll be reducing the size of the gable vent. Whatever area you block with the exhaust duct, is a reduction in the area of the gable vent. Secondly. Depending on how the attic ventilation is designed, the hot moist air exhausted from the duct, could be drawn back into the attic through ...


I wouldn't hesitate to attach the hose to your gable vent, assuming that it's made of a material that won't be affected by moisture. Secure the duct in such a way that the airflow isn't directed at lumber. Drawbacks include lack of a secondary backdraft flap, visibility from the exterior, and lint accumulation.


Honestly, I would get some sheets of plywood (is OSB stiff enough?) and rip em down to 2x8 or other appropriate size, making a compromise between spanning enough joists and fitting in your car. Float them around as needed to do your work. "Just step on the joists" has a fairly high penalty for error, at the least, refinishing a ceiling.


It's fine to walk on solid wood without moving insulation around. If the batts are super-thick and have compressed markedly from you stepping on them, you can fluff them up a bit on exit. Otherwise, they'll fluff back naturally. Don't forget the particulate mask when you're around that stuff.


This isn't a stellar answer because there's more information needed. But here's a start. First, your roof system is built with trusses, so the forces acting on the wood behave a little differently than classic stick framing. (For instance, some members are in tension; others are in compression.) In picture #1, the crack: it's not clear to me what function ...


Yes, every box requires a cover plate. You can't have a cavity with individual wires and wirenuts enjoying a view of the attic. And a steel box needs a steel cover plate. Blank cover plates are readily available for less than a buck. There are only a few styles and sizes and I just keep one or two on hand.


They are called rafter ties. Rafter ties are needed for resist tension when ceiling joists are perpendicular to the rafters. You may be able to take them out if your ceiling joists are parallel to the rafters.

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