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1

I'd start by checking the start capacitor for the fan motor. If that's starting to go bad, the motor could be drawing high current for too long while trying to start.


0

It's possible to change the motor, but doing so may not change anything. In fact, blindly changing the motor could actually cause the system to perform worse. Without knowing a ton more about the system, it's impossible to diagnose the actual problem. It could very well be poor duct design, an undersized system, or a whole host of other problems. The ...


1

When you asked to increase the blower, what you are really asking to do is increase the fan speed (amount of air), right? You could ask the the tech to check/verify that you are getting 1600 CFM (cubic feet per minute) and if you truly are, and if that's not enough, ask them if it is possible to increase it (it might be adjustable). But I am thinking that ...


0

Sounds like you have tried the basic items. You could try replacing the breaker. If you continue to have a problem then you will have to call an air conditioning service technician to check the unit out completely. Good luck!


2

Sounds suspiciously like your A/C lacks a suitable time-delay relay to prevent rapid on/off cycling, which is generally a bad thing (and why those are usually included.) In short, when you "flipped off" the A/C circuit breaker, you should have waited 3-5 minutes before flipping it on again (or the system should have waited that long before attempting to ...


3

The numbers are completely arbitrary, and are whatever the product manager or artist at the manufacturer decided they should be. They might be standardized within a company's product line. If these are private-label units, all bets are off. Numbers instead of real degrees means they used a thermostat too cheap to be consistent from unit to unit, so they ...


3

Breakers do not trip right away. Whether they trip depends on how far over their rated capacity the current is and how long the current has been going for. This behavior is documented in a circuit breaker trip curve for your specific breakers, which gives a range of times for a specific current amount. E.g. in that example, a current of 3x the rated current ...


6

If a breaker is tripping regularly, that's a serious problem you should look at. That is not normal or acceptable. It means something is wrong with your overcurrent protection, or a defective device actually drawing too much current. It is normal for circuit breakers to allow overcurrent for a short amount of time. This is needed by motors to start, ...


4

I'd suspect it's a secondary drain. It's possible that the main drain was simply overwhelmed, and the condensate level backed up to the point of the secondary drain. If it was really humid, a large volume of water could have been removed from the air. If the main drain is slow, it could have simply not been able to keep up. Without inspecting the system, ...


0

If your outside unit isnt cycling on and you have line voltage coming in to L1 and L2 first thing I would check is the contactor you say it does come on.If its cooling when it comes on the your condensor fan and compressor are working fine.


0

Two possible solutions: 1)Install a thermostat from ecobee which comes with remote sensors for individual rooms. 2) Install celing fans in the upstairs rooms. I have the same issue in my house the ceiling fans are more than adequate to cool down the house.


1

It's a waste of money to try. Especially if you're the guy who pays for the electricity. Captain Kirk didn't beam the Freon out. First, you'll want to fix your Freon leak. After all, air conditioners are generally sealed units, with only electrical wires entering the envelope that contains freon. However, they use a lot of aluminum, as it is a superb ...


1

Air conditioners do not magically lose refrigerant. If refrigerant is missing, the air-conditioner leaks; if the leak is not fixed, it will continue to leak. A window unit is almost always a bad economic choice to attempt repairs on rather than replacement; since USA-based persons DO need a license to handle refrigerants, and anyone world-wide needs ...


0

What you need to know: You are supposed to be EPA certified to work with freon, so the following is only for educational purposes and some pertinent information may be missing. An air conditioner should be cooling the air by about 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. To check that, hold a thermometer in front of the air conditioner where the air is comming out. It ...


1

You can't make your single-zone system behave like a 2-zone system just by changing the thermostat, unfortunately. What you're suggesting would be roughly equivalent to relocating the thermostat upstairs. To do this, you could either move your existing thermostat and wiring, or achieve a similar effect by getting a thermostat with a wireless remote ...


-2

I bought the MistBox last year. This is a unit that take's all the guesswork out of Mist cooling your AC. I live in Las Vegas, NV. We enjoy humidity as low as 5 to 15% all summer. With normal around 100+ the whole summer.I installed it in minutes and it worked well. I could actually tell the difference immediately.The only negatives I read, while researching ...


0

Bob, the coil unit (evaporator) in your air handling section is the only part that needs to be changed. With new units this may mean a new sheet metal frame to house the new evaporator coil but I find many furnaces out last at least 1-2 AC units. Don't let them talk you into cleaning and reusing the coil or line set if it is a R12 /R22 type of freon almost ...


1

There are numerous instructional videos on how to change the air speed CFM on an airhandler, so YES. Rather than a switch, it is achieved by the wiring. There will be a chart and a wiring diagram on the unit that will direct you. One speed of air does not match all configurations. A specific CFM on a 3 ton unit with a single trunk line feeding a shotgun ...


3

Sounds like contactor chatter. Could be a bad contactor, or not enough power on the coil. Basically, the contactor is closing and opening really quickly. This happens when the coil doesn't create a strong enough magnetic field to hold the contactor closed. Depending on the cost of a new contactor, I'd probably just pop in a new one. If it doesn't fix the ...


1

208/120Y is cheaper for supplying condominiums because one neutral can carry the unbalanced loads of three ungrounded conductors. But for the consumer, the voltages difference of 208V vs 240V usually equates to the same overall wattage, with the only negligible concern being it takes longer for heating elements to reach their desired temperature. As for ...


1

Volts x Amperage=Wattage I have a 220 volt device (motor, dryer whatever... it makes little difference for this example). Single phase device draws 43 amps (43 x 220 = ~ 9460 Watts or 9.5 KW) Same unit with 3 phase draws 25 amps (25 x 220 =~ 5500 Watts or 5.5 KW) *** The same amount of work is output with either unit despite the 3 phase using less power ...


3

You can drill small holes through a typical masonry wall without compromising its load-bearing. Assuming the holes are no more than a few inches in diameter, well spaced apart and are few in number, there should be no problem. If in doubt, ask an engineer.


2

You've got a wiring problem, or a bad circuit board somewhere. It's possible that the condenser unit is wired to run all of the time, but some protection circuit is kicking in and shutting it down. If that's the case, you would probably have ice build-up on your coils. What is more likely is a relay somewhere is sticking, and remains closed when de-...


0

Your coil is in horrible shape. If it still works it can be cleaned and the bent fins straightened. The fins radiate heat from the tubes that carry the super heated Freon in this case. Salt air can also cause this. If the unit still works a good non acid foaming cleaner should be sprayed into the fins (after the bent ones are straightened). There are plastic ...


9

Yes. you need both pieces. An air conditioner is a heat pump that moves heat from inside to outside. A dual mode system that can supply heat just runs the same process "in reverse." A heat pump draws heat from some source (often air) and transfers it into your house. An air conditioner is the same thing, but instead of drawing "free" heat from some thermal ...


-3

Vent it into the attic space making sure to cover the output hose with window screening.


0

Have a technician check the refrigerant charge. If the system is suddenly not working well, refrigerant charge is the first thing to check.


0

You need to find out why the cooling efficiency is slightly lower. Offhand, I'd guess it's a clogged filter. If it's low on gas, it will freeze up the coil and produce less water (and not work very well), but a whole bunch should come out when it shuts off and melts This should happen within a few minutes, so don't walk away, while you: Let it run for a ...


0

Considering it's cycling on and off I wouldn't think it's the freon. I would look at the high pressure cut-off first. You might be building too much pressure and causing it to shut down.


0

Raid the parts bin for ducting for home shop dust collectors (vacuum cleaners optimized for sawdust). Typically they are 4-6” diameter, snap together and/or have flexible sections, and are plumbed to several machines. Each machine gets a guillotine style shut-off gate. The gate can be controlled precisely. They also make automatic gates which open when ...


0

Could well be it is overheating and shutting down. Have you had the Freon checked lately? You can put a food thermometer in an vent opening; if the temperature at the vent is over 65 degrees Fahrenheit it is probably low on Freon, and the A/C unit is trying to run 100% of the time to try to cool down.


1

If the lines are two small it will change the efficiency and work the compressor harder. It is tough to fully clean the old mineral oil out that was used in older units. If the R410 smells acidic this could be an indication that the old oil was still in the system and mineral oil and ester oil don't mix. If there is old oil in the system this can cause early ...


4

On the AC side everything really needs to be changed R22 uses mineral oil based lubricants. R410a uses ester oil lubricants. Getting all the residue out would cost a bunch and these can’t be mixed. The compressor will need to be changed and the TXV / orifice will need to be changed. You might be able to have the evaporator cleaned (indoor coil) if it is in ...



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