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2

There could be a couple of reasons why it leaked. As Ecnerwal mentioned, it could be the fill bucket float level not working/stuck. But it also be the lower basins float switch stuck (activates a pump to move water from the base of the unit to the fill bucket). If the unit was not level, it could overflow the lower basin before the pump is activated. ...


1

...because you didn't empty its drain bucket/tank? Lacking the usual "outside part" where window air conditioners drip condensate, portables usually have a bucket or tank like a dehumidifier that you need to empty. It might have a float that is supposed to stop operation when it's full - like dehumidifiers, that float mechanism may not be completely reliable ...


0

The hard part actually isn't pumping down the vacuum on the AC, the hard part is recovering the refrigerant. Auto parts stores will loan you a vaccum pump that will work on a house AC, but this won't allow you to recover the refrigerant. Recovering the refrigerant requires specialized equipment that's quite expensive. Discharging the refrigerant to the ...


1

Unless you are an abnormally equipped layman, no. Even then, there may be a legal requirement (depending where you are) for this to be done by a licensed A/C service person, as regulations around refrigerants have become much more stringent over the years, trying to limit uncontrolled releases to atmosphere.


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In your situation, I would set up an arduino powered automatic pump. Basically, you put the water level sensor in the bucket. Once the sensor gets tripped, the arduino activates the relay, which turns on the pump. You pump until the sensor is satisfied. You can discretely run tubing from the pump to the bathtub/window/outside. No more bucket emptying! ...


0

There are lots of clever ideas here, but I think they are all over-engineered. You simply need to get the water moved. Right now you are doing it manually with a bucket. I'd suggest some alternatives: Have the condensate line exit the building through the wall, extend it to ground level. This would be the simplest and cheapest route. Alternatively, you ...


0

How about running the condensate line into a humidifier? You will want to get a humidifier that is ultrasonic (not "warm mist"), since you just wanted the water vaporized, not heated. Cut a small hole in the top of the tank, and run your condensate line into it. Note that since this will be outside you will want to protect it somewhat from the weather, and ...


0

The solution for 100% closed cooling systems (like a refrigerator) is actually pretty elegant and simple: a pipe from the condenser coil (the part of the A/C on the "outside" that gets hot is run through a pan where water collected from the evaporator coil (the part that gets cold) sits. The fan that also cools the condenser blows over the water, which is ...


4

Set up a fan and drip the condensate into the the spinning fan blades. Have the fan blowing the water mist away from the balcony. The optimal fan to do this would be a high RPM high CFM small diameter fan. There are many IP52 water resistant computer case fans that can do this... like this one. The fan can be powered by something like this. I would use the ...


6

While you can't have it drip off the balcony, you can turn it into a fine mist and blow it off. Even a fine sprayer would work fine, but you'll need a float switch to auto-activate it, and a pump. On the plus side, this will air condition your balcony as well. Home Depot has a bucket-top misting fan that looks like it would solve your problem. You would ...


2

Mine was freezing over and not cooling the house. I had recently replaced the filters so I made sure all the vents were open. I noticed there was no airflow so I checked the A/C coil up in the attic... I pulled the panel off and it was completely blocked by lint. I used a wide vacuum brush and sucked all the crud off and now there's airflow again and the ...


1

Are you 100% certain that it blows when the thermostat opens the call for cooling circuit to shut it down? Or, does it run for a good while, shut down, and then you notice that the fuse is blown? If I were you, before going down that rabbit hole I would put one more fuse in it, run it for 5 minutes or less, shut it down from the tstat yourself, and see if ...


0

If the outdoor fan comes on and the compressor does not, you need a "hard start kit" this is either a potential relay and start capacitor as in my diagram or a PTC thermistor solid state start assist device that piggy backs onto the run capacitor. This is assuming your compressor is cold to the touch and has not been starting. If your compressor has been ...


4

The EER (energy efficiency ratio) is a lovely mashup of units (BTU/h)/Watts (ie, 12500/1275 in the questioned case) that will tell you (part of) what you need to know. The rest is up to how much you run it. It uses 1.275 KWh/h (1275 watts) and that costs you 14.07 cents/hr at 11.04 cents/KWh Compare to whatever you think you might replace it with - you'd ...



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