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12

The logic involved is much more complex. Right now the logic is simple: if AC Mode and it's too hot, turn on AC, else turn off AC if Furnace mode and its too cold turn on furnace, else turn off furnace But the determination of when to switch between heating and cooling modes is much more complex - otherwise the ac would kick on, and it would get too ...


11

Insulation will degrade over time. However, we're talking about decades, not months or even a few years. Even blown fiber or cellulose insulation should provide a good R-value for as long as the house is structurally sound; if you need to vacuum out and re-blow or re-lay insulation, chances are the house needs a LOT more work than that. What is probably ...


10

A good deciduous tree helps, but it will take a while for that to work. Just be sure not to plant it too close to the foundation. Light blocking blinds are very good at blocking both heat and light. This may not be good if you're trying to work in the room. Insulation helps if you have an attic above, just don't block the ventilation from the soffits. ...


10

The technology is relatively young, and not as well known to consumers as traditional heating and cooling methods. The upfront costs of a geothermal system are also higher, and there are fewer companies around with the knowledge and tools to install the systems. In the US most homes are not built by the home owners, they are built by development companies ...


8

I live in South Florida and I too have to do this. My house has 2 AC systems. One of them clogs up after about 3-4 months, the other never has. I'm not sure what the difference is, but ever since I started putting a bit of bleach in the condensate line every time I change my filters; I've had no clogs since then. Assuming this is actually your problem, I ...


8

A properly functioning and properly sized central air conditioning unit should be able to maintain the temperature of your house at any reasonable temperature you select. The amount of cooling available is related to the size of the system, insulation in the house, and finally outside air temperature. From your description I would guess either you don't ...


8

You are missing something. Either you have not found the correct breaker yet, or the breaker is not inside the breaker panel for your house. Walk through each breaker in the breaker planel for your house. You could have a mislabled breaker. (The breaker you are looking for is likely a two-pole 240V breaker, maybe 30 amps or better.) Since this is a ...


8

Old insulation may be of lower quality (less of an R value than what would typically be installed in a space). It could also become moldy in environments with high moisture. And if it's a loose fill (e.g. blown cellulose), it may compact over time, which reduces it's effectiveness. For your original issue, get yourself a contactless IR thermometer, walk ...


8

You may be looking at the problem backwards, the freezing lines could be a symptom of the problem not the cause. Start by looking for blockages in the system that would cause lower air flow / heat exchange. Dirty filters. Clogged ducts. Closed dampers. Closed/Blocked vent covers. Dirty coils. Basically if the system cannot exchange the heat/cold, it ...


8

Check your unit's warranty. The heat exchangers on some units are warranteed for 20 years or longer. You may be able to get at least some money from the manufacturer, or a credit toward a new unit of the same brand. They may also cover all or part of the installation labor. Find out whether there are any federal or state tax incentives that could help. A ...


8

It's possible but it will be creating a situation where your a/c is fighting against itself, because you'll simply be redistributing the heat inside your house, instead of putting it on the outside. Why? Because the warm air will creep back into the room you were cooling, so the a/c will be acting like a big do-nothing machine - to a degree anyway. Mold ...


8

If you're confidant that the air leaving the house through the open window is warmer than the outside air that will come back in to replace it, I suppose it's OK to leave the window open. But I think a better solution would be to shut the AC off and use a window fan to circulate the cool outside air through the house. A window fan will be quieter and more ...


7

There are several options. One of the easiest ways is a shade or awning over the window. (This is why Australian outback homesteads have deep verandahs.) Another method is an external shutter, but this will reduce the light a lot, as well. You could also go for a window coating. There are a number to choose from, ranging from an aluminium film to a fine ...


7

First I would check the electrical connections to the compressor and the breaker in the panel, see that they are tight and not corroded. Next I would measure the starting current of the compressor with a clamp on ammeter. I had a problem like this on a friends AC, only his problem was tripping the breaker at times. His compressor is about 10 years old, and ...


7

The reason the lights dim is because the fans on the AC units have a very large inductive startup load. Basically the power lines coming into the house just aren't able to handle the burst of energy that the AC unit is trying to pull. There isn't much that you can do about it, but it also isn't something you should worry about. This happens everywhere I ...


6

You could build a wood frame that fits in the window with an interior hole large enough to accommodate the AC unit. This also has the advantage that you won't have to hold the window open, while juggling the unit into place. You can install the light weight frame, then slide the unit into place. I built one when I lived on the second floor of an apartment ...


6

Because of the need to capture the refrigerant and licenses to get the refrigerant in most places, this typically isn't a DIY job. The fact that the outside unit is running and air is blowing inside suggests that it's not a problem with the thermostat. Check the breaker, air filters, and any other easy to access components for obvious problems. Beyond that, ...


6

I ended up pulling the capacitor and testing it with my ohm meter. It was dead. I could have easily gone to the local HVAC supply, purchased a new capacitor for $30 and installed it myself. But, because I also wanted to have the pressure tested, I called in the guy who installed my furnace. He affirmed that I "did good", it was the capacitor. And ...


6

Unless you can insulate, it will cost a ton of money. I get that it's a rental, but maybe the landlord won't mind if you insulate the garage. Having done that, get one of these AC units that only require you to make a 6" hole through the wall: Talk to your landlord, they may not mind these slight mods, especially if you pay for the insulation. ...


6

The large, cold, low pressure line, carrying the evaporated coolant from the house, should be insulated to prevent condensation. The small, warm, high pressure line, carrying condensed coolant into the house, should not be insulated. I am not an air conditioning professional. However, en.allexperts.com, www.bobvila.com, and www.familyhandyman.com, all agree ...


6

You and your neighbor may very well be on the same power mains feed. Any heavy current draw on one branch of the circuit will be seen as a voltage droop back up the line toward its source. As that droop passes the point where your mains connection joins in with the neighbor's mains your branch will see a corresponding droop in voltage. This can lead to a ...


6

Since hot rises, upper stories will tend to be warmer unless the design of your air conditioning system properly compensates for it. An energy audit, as mentioned in the comments by @mikes will tell you if you have any reasons for heat gain that may be correctable. Assuming you have a single thermostat that controls a unit that supplies both levels, here ...


5

Every year or two I call out a professional company to check the coolant levels and check for any mechanical defects since I don't have all the gear to do it myself. Aside from that I just try and keep the area free of debris and anything that could damage the unit. In my case I have a tree off to the side and several branches hang over the unit which I ...


5

I tend to pour a cup of bleach down the line once a month. Without that at least in Florida you WILL get an algae backup in the line, which if you have bad overflow sensor can cause all kinds of fun water problems. If it is already blocked, just pour the bleach and let it sit. Eventually enough algae will die and the block will clear itself out.


5

Geothermal Heat pumps are more efficent than a traditional Air Conditioner/Heat Pump - if they are possible/practical/cheaper depends on your circumstances. Simpler alternatives are opening the windows, a house fan, swamp coolers - depends on how hot/humid it gets


5

The past home owner left these in my place. Where the blowing air just gets caught behind the curtains, is under furniture or tropical plants, I divert it, and this just happens to be towards places where people sit. Keep in mind in the winter, having the warm air low helps mix it. But in all seasons, the vents are near windows and doors to counteract the ...


5

Did the problem just start? Is the condensation on the pipe frozen? If so, this is an indication that the compressor is overworked (possibly low on coolant). If you are seeing any frost, you should turn off the system before the compressor burns out and call an HVAC professional. Insulation is wrapped around the coolant line to prevent condensation from ...


5

I see a few problems with leaving the AC off for a while, depending on climate. The AC provides dehumidification. So if you live in a humid climate, leaving the AC off can cause issues in the house (swelling doors and window frames, cracking plaster, mold, etc). You generally want the humidity in your house to be 50% or less. Stress on your fridge. If ...


5

First, I feel your pain. I'm in Houston at my girlfriend's place; we live in a single family house, and the A/C is running all day even with the thermostat at 84 degrees. I work from home, so I can't let it go up higher than that. Our outside thermometer recorded 106 degrees today. The things that we've added to the house to help keep cool, besides new ...


5

Actually your AC is much more efficient than that because it is a heat pump, not a direct conversion of electrical watts in to BTU of heat moved per hour. If you know your SEER rating, you can just divide the BTU/h by SEER to get Watts. An SEER of 10 is very common so that would mean each AC needs 800 W to move 8000 BTU per hour. ...



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