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You typically want pavers sitting on top of a sand and compacted rock base. This allows for some movement as needed and some drainage if needed. If you are in a freeze/thaw climate, adhering the pavers to the sidewalk likely wouldn't work very well as water will eventually get under the pavers and start cracking everything a it freezes. Ideally, you're ...


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I have never tried to adhere pavers to a sidewalk, but can't say I wouldn't recommend it. Instead I would install paver edging along the edges of the sidewalk and set the pavers in between them. Then I would fill in between the pavers in with polymeric sand to lock them in. Paver edging:


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Use the angle on this tool to get your cutting edge into the glue between the two pieces of wood and cut through as much glue as possible, then pry the door open once you have most of the glue removed. Remove the rest of the wood from both surfaces with sand paper then reseal the wood.


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A sawzall with a metal-cutting blade as opposed to a wood or general-purpose one (many small teeth, not few deep sharp ones) will be easy to run along the surface of the studs and cut off the glue with cutting the wood.


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I would make sure all the screws are out and then run a circular saw up the side of the stud. As long as you hold your line and keep the plate pressed against the side should be able to shave off everything except for a mm or two.


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Superglue will not fill the voids well enough between the wall and the wood frame. There are picture hooks with a special adhesive that may work for your purpose. See here, there is a variety on this link


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You could try running a putty knife or something behind them, but my actual advice for removing them is to have the spackle or drywall compound and paint handy, as scars are to be expected. Hmm - heat (as from a hair dryer - not so much as to scorch paint) might also help loosen the adhesive a bit. As for the left-behind adhesive the usual suspects - ...


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I would begin with a cardboard pattern. You could measure each distance, lay them out on the right edge of the cardboard. Or you could use profile gauge such as this one. I would then do a rough cut of the cardboard, lay it into the corner, and trim to precision. Do not cut the left edge until the end. Then transfer the profile onto the molding. On the ...


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whoever installed it originaly didnt have a clue what they were doing. Niether do you. you NEVER glue the underlayment..it is an Acclimating product.SMH



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