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7

I would spend the time to scrape it off. This will increase the contact area between the studs and the drywall, which in turn will give better stability. Stability is important because if there is any free play, the screws will move, and may eventually show through the paint. There are various scrapers available in your local home improvement store, in the ...


5

A good drywall adhesive has much more shear strength than screws - and this is just when your glue is on the framing. So if you are doubling up the drywall gluing makes a ton of sense. Just recently my drywall guys started using glue and I can say this, I hope I never have to demo these places because the drywall is ATTACHED. All this being said the ...


4

If there is a lot of glue I would definitely spend the money on an oscillating tool and get one of the cutting tools. It should make quick work of getting the glue off but won't be as aggressive/damaging as a reciprocating saw.


4

If they aren't level, and scraping is too daunting, I suggest sistering new studs to the existing ones but have them stick out 1/8 inch. I'd suggest using metal ones as that'd make the job extremely quick.


4

You should not do this. Foam insulation (EPS, XPS, etc.) needs to be covered with drywall in order to protect it (extend the amount of time before it melts) from fire. Otherwise you are risk of being exposed to toxic fumes and melting foam should you ever have a fire. Imagine molten foam dripping from your ceiling onto you - not a situation you want to find ...


4

Open Time* The amount of time the adhesive should be left to set, before it is covered. If you're gluing two sticks together, with an adhesive with 30 seconds open time. You should apply the glue to one stick, then wait at least 30 seconds before affixing the second stick. The amount of time the adhesive can be left before it is covered. If you're ...


3

Use a biscuit joiner. Then glue and clamp to dry. But depends what you using them for. There not going to be heaps strong if the timber spands over a distance.


3

No glue needed. the angle of the cleat and gravity does to trick. It will not need it but you can run a screw into the framing to solve any issue you may have.


3

The easy thing to do would be Liquid Nails and I am pretty sure they have a stone version. A better solution would be some thinset. I do not agree with silicone because it has a little give in it. After a while of kicking or stepping on it will lose its grip a bit and eventually come loose.


3

Most products you purchase will have the information on the label. If no information is provided you can look for a marking similar to the following that will help you identify the type of plastic it was made with. ABS does not have a symbol, but is often marked >ABS<. In your case, I'd look around the base of the hose reel you should be able to find ...


3

There is a way to create such a composite timber. Actually, all other things being equal (the species, cut and quality of the wood), a built up sandwich is actually stronger than a solid piece of wood. This is done by laminating the three boards together. A generous layer of wood glue, such as Titebond II, is spread over one face of one of the boards. The ...


2

Highly recommend for removing the liquid nail, a very sharp wood chisel will do just fine with a little effort. If the liquid nail is only 1/8 thick then no problem, just hang right over it.


2

Do you need the fire resistance and sound-deadening of drywall, or just want the look? You might consider something else that would look quite similar but not have the weight. I put textured paintable wallpaper over wood paneling, like this textured wallpaper. Once painted, it blended right in with the drywalled wall next to it. Nobody knows it isn't ...


2

The common 2 part epoxies from the hardware store or home center are NOT waterproof. I learned this the hard way using them on boat projects. If you are going to use epoxy, it's worth the few extra bucks for a good one, like WEST System. You will probably also want some fillers like colloidal silica or glass micro beads to control the viscosity and sag of ...


2

I typically use Goo Gone (US product), will remove most. Rubbing Alcohol is another item that works for some adhesive. Or clorox wipes also works on some.


2

First, I agree with diceless, it is probably perfectly legal for the homeowner, to deal with this problem himself (assuming no part of the house is rented to a third party). On the other hand, I agree with Mazura, you may be opening a huge can of worms here. Since we are only talking about 2 bedrooms, I have to question the cost and time effectiveness of ...


2

There is no Do-It-Yourself asbestos abatement process that meets US construction industry standards for safety and the protection of air quality. The only proper methods for renovating structures containing asbestos bearing building materials require removal and/or encapsulation by professionals experienced in the area. There is no silver bullet in a ...


1

The right way: buy a bigger piece of wood. For very limited, low-stress uses, the biscuit joiner as mentioned by @Nathan might work well enough - as might a Tongue and groove joint, double-groove and spline joint, or lap joint. While a scarf joint (various types are available) is strong, with such short pieces of wood you probably don't have enough wood in ...


1

Beware that if in a use that is subject to plumbing code, your 3D printed item almost certainly will be a code violation. The probable best bet (and I'm not guaranteeing success) would be a "Multipurpose plastic pipe glue" - go to the plumbing section, find the PVC pipe cement, don't buy that - look for the somewhat smaller stock of pipe cement that claims ...


1

I wouldn't trust glue unless it was certified to deal with the solar heating, humidity, etc. it will be subject to. There are industrial adhesives which would do it... but it's also going to be a pain to maintain that way. Have you considered just painting the aluminum panels? Or using screws of a size and type actually designed to carry weight when ...


1

Gluing on structural straps is an iffy project for most materials. Have you considered pop rivets? The tool can cost less than $10 and the rivets a few dollars more. You just drill a small hole throught he plastic, punch a small hole through the strapping, insert the rivet through the holes, add a washer on the webbing side and operate the tool. You ...


1

That level of glop is not normal. Some things to check: Is the pipe end deburred? A file plus sandpaper to finish works well. Are the pipe & fittings dry? Water can do strange things to PVC cement. Be firm, but don't push too hard, and don't over rotate. 1/8 of a rotation is enough. Work quickly, but do let any residual drips in the primer ...


1

I checked with the Gorilla Glue website, and the only solvent for this glue is acetone. Be careful using acetone as it will strip many clear furniture finishes. The website also said that it may be necessary to allow the acetone to soak into the glue for awhile to soften it. Good luck!


1

I would first try a plastic scraping tool to see if you can physically remove it. This page from the manufactures site says: Wipe off excess glue immediately with a dry cloth or standard paint thinner. Do not drag glue over material, instead make small swipes to remove wet adhesive. Make sure you avoid skin contact. Cured glue can be removed with a ...


1

After 30+ years in the plastics industry, my tried and true method is to take a scraping of the plastic piece and burn it, extinguish the flame and smell the smoke. Polyolefins will catch fire, smell like candles (a paraffin based plastic); PVC won't usually ignite, smells like chlorine and will burn your nose - BE CAREFUL; ABS has a sweet smell and burns ...


1

Yes you can. I have my guys use Liquid Nails for ceilings. We still add screws but not really sure you HAVE TO. Definitely nothing wrong with using the correct adhesive for a few studs on a piece of drywall.


1

Sometimes it takes a village. Here's a summary of what ended up working: The first layer of tiling came off without too much trouble by using a heavy duty paint scraper (with a slight bend to it) and a hammer. I was able to get through this in less than an hour. The second layer was much harder. I believe @Ecnerwal was right in that it was actually a layer ...


1

I feel your pain, I have run into this many times. It may be necessary to use a Sonic/ vibrating tool like a Rockwell Sonic Crafter with a scraping blade. You may damage the wood a little, bit it will sand out. Don't use water, it can damage the underlaying wood and seep into the subfloor. The center of the floor is always the hardest to strip. Foot ...


1

You are either going to use glue which has melting points - I can't believe that there are no glues that can't handle computer heat - or caulk/silicone which may handle heat better but has some elasticity to it so it may move or have issues too. Really best options are epoxy or weld it. If you don't want either of those than you have to choose the one of ...



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