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4

If you can, I would recommend cutting down the joint with a thin bandsaw blade & then machining both pieces with a jointer to get the super tight fit that you really should have between your boards. The reason I suggest this is that cutting boards can give up particles when sliced/chopped on that would end up on the food that is processed on the cutting ...


4

Forget trying to glue it, repair it some other way. "McGyver" it. Like maybe buy a lock hasp of appropriate size and use the staple, which is the piece that the lock shackle would go through (see picture). Sorry I could not find a picture of just the staple. Screw the staple to the speaker body and the staple hole would rest in the base, aligned with the ...


3

For drain covers with no screw holes and no option of screwing in itself we usually slap some plumber's putty on the bottom and smash it in. With a screwdriver and a few tugs you can remove and reuse again but should keep it from moving.


2

If it's polystyrene, you'll probably get the best bond with modelling glue - it's as close to a weld as you can get with that type of plastic. You'll want to get all of the epoxy off first though - otherwise you won't get a decent weld. Since it is obviously a high stress part, I'd drill and pin it with piano wire in at least a couple places. That said, I ...


2

It is a good idea not to glue or make the grate non-removable in case access to the drain is needed in the future. For a fast non-adhesive fix to keep the grate in-place wrap a rubber band around the grates edge.



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