Hot answers tagged adhesive
15
Yes, but not just for rigidity.
Cement board is made of, well, cement - and cement is brittle.
When you screw the cement board in you create a pressure point or stress point. Even though the board is screwed in with lots and lots of screws, each screw hole is a stress point prone to breakage.
By gluing the board as well as screwing, you ensure that a ...
10
1) Use an 81" length of metal with a 'T' cross section. Cut a slot down the middle of the 81" edge of the panel to accommodate it. Dry fit, then assemble with construction adhesive. If desired, 'pin' the T-bar in place with nails or screws through the surface of the door.
... or ...
2) Use an 81" length of metal with a 'U' cross section and 1.5" outside ...
7
Tape and concrete don't really mix that well. It might initially hold, but it will eventually let go.
The best solution is to drill a hole and use a light concrete anchor or concrete nail. Alternatively, you can use a special metal band that wraps the pole and has an attachment on it (sorry, I don't know the exact name of these) - they are often use for ...
5
The bubble doesn't necessarily mean it wasn't glued, but rather that air became trapped under the vinyl while it was being put down - which means that the people putting it down didn't do it properly.
When installing vinyl, it should be unrolled slowly, with even pressure being applied along the length of the floor as it's being unrolled (slow, tedious ...
5
From the Liquid Nails faq:
How To Remove LIQUID NAILS Adhesive Products from Building Materials
In general, LIQUID NAILS construction adhesive and caulk
products can be scraped off when they are softened either by:
Heating above 140°F with an electric heat gun or blow dryer
Coating the adhesive with petroleum jelly or mineral spirits for ...
5
Removing glue from any surface is a thankless task. You will not be able to return the floor to an as-built state. You're going to have to cover it with something.
You're going to have to dissolve it and scrape it. And it's going to be a heck of job.
Some expert google-fu has yielded Baby Oil as a potential solvent. Other suggestions were mineral oil.
...
4
Unfortunately forever is simply impossible ;)
Without knowing what/how these planks are going to be used, it is difficult to provide a great answer. I have no real experience with liquid nail, but have used similar types of glue with success, but again, without the what/how you indeed to use these planks... I can't say too much for your case.
One issue ...
3
Absolutely not. Epoxies are formulated for different cure times, cure temperatures, bonding to different materials, performance in various extreme environments, etc. That said, amongst the various hardware store 5 minute general purpose epoxies, I doubt there is a lot of difference between brands. I know nothing of the specifics for this application, I would ...
3
I had liquid nails all over my walls for my steps leading downstairs after I tore out the fake brick. I am more than sure that the above answers will work but I like free and I like hitting things.
Tools needed:
sharp chisel and hammer.
Time it took me to do entire stairs:
about 1 hour.
Procedure:
Just keep the chisel flat so it doesn't take out any ...
3
Depending on how artistic you want it to appear you might try some wide ribbon available at sewing supply store.Wrap it around the pillar twice and tie in a knot.If the pillar is rough the surface should keep it from sliding downThen hang the poster to the ribbon with ahook.If you dont mind a more industrial look you could try a canvas cargo strap with a ...
2
For an end grain glue joint to properly hold, the joint would have to be some sort of long scarf joint, just sawing it off and end gluing isn't enough, end-grain pulls out and yes, the glue is stronger than the end grain. You're not going to gain much with the extra work and it's probably not approved for use in this location.
Along with what @shirlockhomes ...
2
I have had success sawing through them with dental floss. Get an 18" piece of floss. wrap each end around your fingers or a pencil. Slide the floss behind the plastic section. while applying a downward pressure on the floss, move it back and forth left to right until the hook separates from the adhesive. Once you have access to the adhesive you can scrape it ...
2
In the long term, I think you need to replace the faucet, but in the meantime:
You could try an epoxy with metal added (J-B Weld is the most famous, but the SuperGlue company makes a light-duty metal epoxy that I've used for a bunch of jobs; the one-use packages are available at the 99-cent store).
In either case,
clean and dry the surfaces (turn off the ...
2
I've used Goof off professional for small areas, but its too toxic for a large area.
Diamond brush buffers will wear down the adhesive and even out the floor. They can be used wet to keep the dust cloud to a minimum.
This is available as a rental at a familiar big box store and is paired with a floor buffer. A shop vac and dust mask HIGHLY recommended. ...
2
Scrape off all the old adhesives then use Liquid Nails on the back. Pre-drill, countersink, and screw it into the door. You can use caulk, liquid nails, or wood filler to fill in over screw holes and then re-prime and paint.
2
An iron and a very sharp wallpaper removal knife. Heat the carpet tape, zap it with some steam... do that twice in about 3-4 mins. Wait another 3-4 mins to let the moisture soak in - longer if tape is thick. Heat it again, zap it with steam again...
Then you need to hit it with the blade. I have taken down 15-20 types of wallpaper and carpet tape in my ...
2
My suggestion would be to embed square tube stock steel into the MDF and epoxy it in.
I recently did this exact thing with MDF subtop for my granite counters and uses a polyurethane glue to embed the steel.
Check out the pictures here:
Can I support a granite countertop overhang with embedded steel bars?
Square stock is rigid and cheap. Route a channel ...
2
I had a similar issue happen with my dishwasher and counter top laminate. What I ended up doing is peeling it back a bit more to give me access, and picked up some laminate/veneer cement (it is similar to rubber cement). You apply to both the laminate and the substrate, let it dry for 15 minutes (until it is no longer glossy) then push the two pieces ...
1
Liquid Nails comes in various formulations, some better than others. Of this type adhesive, polyurethane based of any brand will give the best bond, as Jon Raynor suggested. I don't have hard data, and again it varies by formulation, but epoxy should give an equal or better bond than polyurethane, and is less susceptible to creep deformation. Epoxies that ...
1
Your problem is probably due to impurities/dirt on the tiles - you really need to get them clean.
I used isopropyl alcohol on mine, and scrubbed them hard. As soon as they dried I applied an epoxy and the hooks are probably now attached to the tiles more strongly than the tiles are attached to the wall :-)
1
Lee Valley has an amazing selection of magnets, typically rare-earth and very strong. Like "can lift 30 pounds" strong. They come in rods and discs, and come with steel accessories that make them stronger.
If it's really important to be a strip, IKEA sells a knife strip. I own one of these; they screw to the wall and work wonderfully for holding a number of ...
1
Gluing a patch in place like as shown below will not add much to restoring the original strength of the joist.
If you were to attach a longer piece like shown in the second picture and glue this in place for the full length of the piece a whole lot more strength will be added to the joist.
Note that if the joist has started to sag down due to the ...
1
If this poster has potential value either sentimental or monetary I would reccomend framing it like you would a photograph. Based on the size I would use lexan /plexiglass to cover it. The problem with using glue is the wood will expand and contract with humidity changes, the poster will stay the same size. This will result in buckles when the wood shrinks ...
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