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In my kitchen, I want to replace a regular 120V receptacle with a GFCI-protected receptacle. The instructions describe what to do with a regular 2-wire + ground feed, with and without daisy chaining to other receptacles, but not how to do it with a 3-wire + ground feed. Please describe how I should connect the new receptacle.

Here's a diagram of how the non-GFCI receptacle is currently wired, in my best 6-year-old artistry: diagram of current receptacle connections

I think it's connected this way so that each receptacle in the kitchen has their two sockets supplied by different breakers. At the service panel the circuit is controlled by a joined pair of 15A breakers. I assume the white and black are separate 15A lines and the red is a common neutral (?).

Here are the instructions for connecting in a 2-wire scenario.

enter image description here

How do I connect this? Or should I consult an electrician?

EDIT

From The complete guide to home wiring

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This might be of interest. – Tester101 Oct 5 '11 at 12:17
I later found that The complete guide to home wiring at Google Books describes the layout for exactly this scenario. – Matt Fox Nov 15 '11 at 7:20

4 Answers

up vote 5 down vote accepted

The first problem is that you may be using the wrong cable and breakers. NEC calls for 2 20Amp small appliance circuits in the kitchen, to accomplish this you'll need to switch to 20Amp breakers and #12 wire.

The next problem. You'll have to pull new wire anyway, if you want to hook up GFCI receptacles. GFCI receptacles will not work properly with a shared neutral, you'll end up with nuisance tripping with a shared neutral. GFCI receptacles work by monitoring the balance between hot and neutral, so if the neutral is shared the GFCI will not work properly.

To wire up the kitchen properly, you'll have to pull 2 new 12/2 cables from the breaker to the kitchen (all #14 wire on that circuit will have to be replaced). Then install 2 20Amp breakers, to supply the kitchen. You'll install the GFCI's as the first receptacle on each circuit, which will protect all downstream receptacles.

After a little more research:

I've found a few sources that say you can share a neutral between 2 GFCI receptacles. The catch is you'll have to pigtail the neutral to the receptacles, not use the neutral from the load side of the first GFCI to feed the second.

So you may be able to do something like this...

enter image description here

But not like this...

enter image description here

You'll then be able to use the load side of each receptacle to feed other devices, like this.

enter image description here

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Thanks. I'll try both of those methods after I buy some cable to use for the neutral pigtail, and report back. – Matt Fox Oct 7 '11 at 2:49
This is the correct configuration. However, as my GFCI was not the final receptacle on the black feed, I had to pigtail both the neutral AND the hot to make it work. This requires a GFCI receptacle in each location that requires protection. Thanks for your help. – Matt Fox Nov 15 '11 at 7:17
@MattFox The GFCI should be the first device on each leg, all other devices should be supplied by the LOAD side of the GFCI. This protects all downstream devices. If you pigtail before the GFCI, downstream devices will NOT be protected. – Tester101 Nov 15 '11 at 12:54
Connecting the downstream loads to the hot load connector (ie without a pigtail) also resulted in immediate tripping. Anyway, even if it would work with the loads directly connected but the neutral pigtailed, the downstream loads wouldn't be protected, right? See the link in the comment I added to the question. – Matt Fox Nov 15 '11 at 17:37
@MattFox To do this the neutral should only be shared to the GFCI's. Once the Black (hot) + neutral and Red (hot) + neutral are connected to GFCI receptacles, The neutral and hot from each load side would have to be used. The shared neutral does not continue beyond the GFCI receptacles. This is why I can't understand why this type of configuration is still acceptable. Also, notice the link you provided does not show GFCI protected receptacles. To follow that wiring, you'd have to have a double pole GFCI protected breaker in the panel. – Tester101 Nov 15 '11 at 17:46
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Most of what Gregmac has said is correct, however I have to correct a couple of small items. It is totally acceptable and often done to use a three wire circuit (black/red hot, white neutral & bare ground) like you have to "alternate" kitchen receptacles, thus giving you two circuits. It is not a code requirement to split the top and bottom of the recpts, however it is fine to do that, but it complicates the GFI functions. Splitting the top and bottom would require two GFI's upstream, one feeding each of the legs. More common would be two single pole GFI breakers in the panel.

With that said, your situation is different. I bet you will find that the the black feeds every other recpt, and likewise the red does the same thing with alternate recpts. Once you confirm that, simply install a GFI on the first powered recpt of each string (color). As a matter of fact, this is the most common way kitchens are wired and meets NEC.

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Wouldn't the first GFCI constantly trip? – Tester101 Oct 5 '11 at 12:13
No it won't because it is looking at the difference between neutral and ground in reference to the local branch hot. Since both neutral and ground are supposed to be at the same potential throughout the house. The internal breaker is powered by the hot side on that branch only. So if the fault occurs in recpt in that branch, only that GFI will trip. – shirlock homes Oct 5 '11 at 22:25
After some research, it sounds like you can share a neutral but... you have to pigtail the neutral to the GFCI, not for example run the load side neutral to the second GFCI. – Tester101 Oct 6 '11 at 12:26
It still sounds fishy to me, but I guess I can't say for sure either way until I try it out myself. – Tester101 Oct 6 '11 at 13:07
2  
I finally installed my GFCI. I tried it both the way you describe, shirlock, and the way Tester101 describes. It must be done according to Tester, as your method shirlock does result in instant tripping of the GFCI protection. – Matt Fox Nov 15 '11 at 7:19

Dont over complicate this. It is very simple problem. Just leave the red wire alone. No one here knows for sure what it is used for but it doesnt matter. Every electrician/homeowners wire things a little different. It could be right or wrong but if everything works dont worry about it.

Without using the red wire you can use the diagram you provided. The only thing to figure out is what wires is the hot feed. The easiest way to find this out is to turn off the breaker and disconnect one set of black and wire wires. Then put a separate wire nut on each and turn the breaker back on. if the outlet still works then the wires connected are hot. If not then obviously the wires you took off and capped are. Now you have to decide if you want the rest of the outlets on this series to be protected by the GFI and connect your load wires up accordingly. It will be label on the back of the gfi which load connection point is protected.

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The phrasing I've used for this is "line" vs "load". Line is the power source (think of it as the power line from the utility pole) and the load is what is receiving power after that point. – BMitch Oct 9 '11 at 0:08

Pigtail the neutral and the hot. This is the correct way to install any receptacle, GFCI or not.

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2  
Hi. You'll notice that the other answers to this question are a lot more detailed about what to do in this situation. – ChrisF Dec 7 '11 at 21:18

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