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I'm building a deck as the floor of a 30' yurt. Construction is 4" x 6" joists on 4" x 4" posts, on pre-cast concrete pier blocks, on tamped gravel footings. Posts are 20" - 30" long. Lumber is pressure treated.

Yurt deck framing

As I build the framing, I have many variables to measure: the plumb of the posts, the rotation of the posts, the level of the joists, the height of the joists relative to each other. Adjusting each one affects all the others, so it is an iterative process. I want to know when it's good enough, so I can stop iterating. I'm asking here about the plumb

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Is that metal bracket above the pier block and under the post supposed to be sticking up like that? I think I've usually seen these resting directly on the concrete footing/block; the metal protrusion seems like it could bend over time. I'm no expert, just curious. –  Shimon Rura May 14 '11 at 2:48
    
@ShimonRura: Yes, that's how they come from the factory. They are epoxied in that way. It is a little flexible there. See homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100323114/h_d2/… –  Jay Bazuzi May 14 '11 at 5:13
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Ok Jay, here it comes! It is important to make the posts as close to plumb as possible. The closer you are to true plumb, the less stress will be exerted on your mounting fixture. In all honesty, I think the posts are a bit tall and should have been cut to flush down closer to your pad, but then I digress.

Here is a trick to help you plumb and adjust your posts quickly. Pound a couple of pointed pieces of 2X2 or 2X4 firmly into the ground at 90 degree angles to your post. Then take the temp support strappings and screw them into your post with a drywall screw. You can now adjust the strapping against the ground stakes until your left and right post sides are perfectly plumb. Screw the strapping into the stake, add a second screw top and bottom and you should have a very secure, perfectly plumb post.

I see in your picture you are using strings. That is good, but if you can get your hands on a good self-leveling laser, it would make sizing the posts so easy, and give you excellent level cross checks as you continue to add more posts to the gridwork. Good Luck Jay

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Thanks. I used a laser level to size all the posts first, but now I'm using a 4' carpenter's level to adjust as I go. The height is more than I originally planned, but I wanted to make sure I could get underneath where ground is a bit higher. –  Jay Bazuzi May 14 '11 at 15:42
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