Looks like WD-40 can be used for lubricating just about any metal parts.
Are there non-obvious cases where using WD-40 will be harmful to the stuff lubricated?
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Looks like WD-40 can be used for lubricating just about any metal parts. Are there non-obvious cases where using WD-40 will be harmful to the stuff lubricated? |
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We're looking for long answers that provide some explanation and context. Don't just give a one-line answer: please explain why you're recommending it as a solution. Answers that don't explain anything will be deleted. See Good Subjective, Bad Subjective for more information. |
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Don't ever use WD-40 on something that has already been lubricated (like with white lithium grease, etc). The WD-40 will break down the grease and make a real mess. |
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For the same reason you wouldn't use it on door hinges, it should never be used for chair and sofa mechanisms. Because WD-40 attracts dust and turns things black, over time that dirt accumulation within the moving parts will build up and eventually start to fall off onto carpeting creating a terrible black mess that is nearly impossible to remove. |
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Any electric motor, even if the rotor is stuck from filthy dried-up lubricant! Think squeaky furnace blower motors, fans that won't start up, lawn mower engines, etc. The solvent not only removes any remaining lube, but it can melt coil wires (the lightly-coated copper wires twisted up in electric motors) and cause an electrical short. New fan motor! $200! I did use it to help start a snowblower, which worked well for 1 use, then never ran again (likely due to WD-40's hygroscopic nature). There ARE, apparently, OTHER WD-#'s |
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It attacks polycarbonate windows such as Tufak or Lexan too. Shooting through a bullet proof window after applying is NOT recommended. |
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I read an article once by a clock repairman who described how bad WD-40 is for precision clockworks. The main reason has been given already: it attracts dirt, which acts as an abrasive and eventually gums up the action. |
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Lock cylinders. Never in lock cylinders. Doorknobs, padlocks, etc. - the residue left will just attract dirt & grit, and prematurely wear down the works. This was given me by a college friend whose dad worked on the maintenance staff - so they did a lot of locks!! It probably took years to see the pattern, but any lock they had shot with WD-40 eventually failed before un-WD'ed locks. |
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Personal experience: An electrician told me never to squirt WD40 into an electric motor (bathroom exhaust fan) as it can be ignited. |
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WD-40 isn't actually a true lubricant. WD stands for water displacing. The main use for WD-40 is as a solvent and a rust dissolver. The lubricant-like properties of WD-40 are from rapidly evaporating components. It won't last. True lubricants include things like silicone, grease, Teflon, graphite, etc. WD-40 can be good as a first go at things, it can help clean up rust or other grime and then you can apply your lubricant. |
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For something where you need longer lasting lubrication, consider Silicone-based spray. Comes in a can just like WD-40, but it "sticks" better. |
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Musical Instruments. My sister works at a music store, and a father ruined an $800 clarinet by using WD-40 on "the squeaky part". |
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Rubik's cubes. Serious cubers will lube their cubes with Jigaloo, CRC silicone, or even vaseline. But, will point and laugh at noobs who use WD-40, as it melts the cube, likely seizing it. Yet people keep doing it. |
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Never use WD 40 on door hinges or anything you want to keep clean. It attracts dirt and dust. It will turn your hinge pins black. |
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Bicycle chains! WD40 will ruin a bike chain and the gears wear out quicker. It washes the dirt in, the dirt acts as an abrasive and not a lubricant. |
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It doesn't move and it should = WD40 WD40 is only used as an immediate lubricant, eg. for a stuck bolt, or a s water dispersant. Don't use it where you need longer term lubrication, like a bike chain. |
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WD-40 does a lot of things, unfortunately this means that it does not do any one thing well. As a lubricant WD-40 is very thin and runny. WD-40 will lubricate for a short time, but will quickly run off. This is a side effect from it being a penetrant. If it was thicker for better lubrication it would not penetrate well. WD-40 is a GREAT quick-fix and one-can option. I use it in that role, it gets things going long enough to let me finish the current task and get back to the shop. Once there I can get to my real penetrants (Kroil, PB Blaster) and my real lubricants (oil, white lithium) and repair the problem. Bonus tip: wrap your WD-40 can with several turns of duct-tape. You now have two of the best quick-fix wonders in one package. |
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