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When I bought my baseboard heaters, thermostats and 220V breakers I was advised to get 12/3 wire. When I attempted to install the heaters I found that the thermostats, heaters, and even breakers have connections for only 2 wires. I have since read that 12/3 is only necessary for wiring something like a dryer that uses both 220V and 110V over the same wire. My question now is, should I get 12/2 instead of 12/3 to wire these heaters?

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2 Answers 2

I had a similar situation when I wanted to add 240V baseboard heaters to my attic renovation. I was initially told I needed to run 10/3 for a 240V line (I forget who, maybe my father-in-law or the guy at Home Depot), so I ran 10/3 from the basement through two stories and up into the attic. Later I found out all I needed was 2 conductors for the heaters so I ran the 10/3 into a junction box in an attic closet and then had 10/2 go from there to the heaters and thermostat. I put a wire nut on the unused conductor in the junction box as well as at the other end inside the electrical panel.

I wish I had known that I only needed 2 conductor when I was fishing it from the basement as it would have been easier to deal with and cheaper.

Where are you located? My experience is in the USA and I am NOT an electrician (though it did pass inspection from the city).

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I really don't like having wires that are un-connected at both ends. They act like an antenna, and can give you a shock if you touch it, particularly if they are long. That is why I always connect it to ground, or neutral. ( which one depends on the circumstances ) In this case I would hook it up like you normally would at the breaker, and just put a wirenut on the white wire in the junction box. Also if you replace your system with one that requires a neutral, you won't have to go into the breaker panel, to hook it up. –  Brad Gilbert Jun 25 '11 at 6:05

12/2 would be a less expensive and more obvious-to-future-electricians way to wire the heaters. However, you can use 12/3 and just ignore one of the wires. The safe way to do that is to bond the red wire to ground at every junction. That way, if it is ever wired to current somewhere in the system, the circuit will immediately short and your circuit breaker will break the circuit.

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I have to take issue with using 12/3. The heaters need 12/2wg. If 12/3 were used, convention requires that the black and red conductors are used to carry voltage 120/240vac and the white shall be neutral and bonded to the bare ground at the panel. When the white is used for a primary voltage leg (12/2wg) it must be painted or marked black to designate it as a primary. I totally disagree with using 12/3 and especially bonding red to ground, which is NEVER done. Your solution would certainly work OK, but not a good practice. Sorry down vote. –  shirlock homes May 3 '11 at 10:21
Good point shirlock, I didn't know that when using 12/2wg to carry 240VAC it was required to mark the white. The idea of bonding something to ground was just to make clear that one of the conductors is not being used for its normal purpose. –  Shimon Rura May 3 '11 at 21:08
Alright, I've got a follow up question. I have since discovered that the 2 connections on the 220v breaker are for the 2 hot wires that are each 110v... Now I'm wondering how to properly hook up the breaker to get 220v over one wire... –  Luke May 27 '11 at 2:04
@Luke: each hot wire is at 120V potential relative to the neutral wire. However, they are on opposite phases, so the potential between the two hots is 240V. You don't use the house neutral in this configuration. –  Shimon Rura Jun 3 '11 at 2:16
I am an electrician. Red and Black are used to carry voltage and white for ground. If you are tempted to use red as a ground hire an electrician before you electrocute someone. –  user18737 Dec 19 '13 at 19:31

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