Take the 2-minute tour ×
Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for contractors and serious DIYers. It's 100% free, no registration required.

So our new place came with an old antiquated huge satellite dish in the yard. Getting it down wasn't much trouble, but I'm stuck trying to figure out how to get the big steel post it sat on out of the way.

The original plan was to just sawzall the thing down below ground level, cover it up, and forget about it. Except this thing pretty much just laughs at my sawzall while the blade just tickles it.

So without having to potentially dig multiple feet down to dig the whole thing out, can someone recommend a better blade? It's my first time trying some longer than usual Diablo steel cutting blades you see in the image.

Or would I need to find a buddy with welding gear? I could swear I've cut stuff worse than this before with the sawzall so I'd prefer to go that route if possible.

enter image description here enter image description here

EDIT : So far I've found that the Diablo Steel Demon DS0908BFD AND The Diablo Diamond Grit "Cast Iron Cutting" blades were pretty much worthless against this thing. I sat there for about 15 minutes with the diamond grit blade expecting something and got nothing but disappointment. Pipe 1, Sawzall 0 :(

share|improve this question
    
A cut off saw with a steel and a metal cutoff wheel should cut it down. Maybe a saw blade will work but it would take a long time. –  treeNinja Jul 3 at 18:53
    
@treeNinja ya see that's what I'm afraid of. Do you know a good hand held model to recommend? –  Chris W. Jul 3 at 18:59
    
Added an edit update to end of the question. Going to have to try something else. –  Chris W. Jul 8 at 15:29

4 Answers 4

It will probably be 3 to 6 hours of non-skilled labor (neighborhood kids?) to dig up the concrete and remove the whole assembly. Don't cut the post off: it will help wiggle out the base.

Dig a hole immediately to one side of the concrete base of a convenient size. (There is no need to dig all around it.) A post hole digger works great. Make the hole at least as wide (front to back) as the concrete so you can tip the concrete into the hole. The hole need not be as wide (left to right) as the concrete; only enough to detach it from the surrounding soil. The concrete depth should be at least 36 inches below the frost depth, but that is hard work and most people would go 24–30 inches and call it good. (Also note that link says a standard parallel-sided hole is not desirable, but most installers use an auger or post hole digger so it is unlikely to be pyramid shaped.)

The block of concrete will weigh up to 250 pounds, so no need to be polite and dainty when trying to move it. Roping it to a heavy vehicle, tree, boulder, etc. and jumping on the line would not be overkill to gain sufficient force.

Once it is out, use a sledgehammer or blunt end of a splitting maul on the concrete to break it off the pipe and into easy-to-carry and easy-to-use pieces for trimming a garden, driveway fill, etc. Then you'll also have a sturdy pipe to build a fountain, chime, etc. too.

share|improve this answer

The first thing is to check is that you are using the correct blade type. The one in you picture looks like it might be a wood blade, but I can't be certain. There are various qualities of metal blades, so considering the thickness, you might opt for a higher quality (more expensive) blade. Don't be surprised if you go through a few blades on this.

Alternatively, an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel would probably do the trick - slowly though.

share|improve this answer
    
+1 for angle grinder –  bib Jul 3 at 22:47
    
I think an angle grinder may have to be the next attempt, thanks for the suggestion. –  Chris W. Jul 8 at 15:31

You need a sawzall blade with a diamond grit rather than teeth. That way, it abrades the metal rather than really cutting it--same approach that angle grinders take.

It'll be cheaper to buy a top-of-the-line abrasive blade than an angle grinder, so I would do that, especially seeing how you already have a nice sawzall (I have the same one and love it). I have used the Milwaukee Torch blade on mine, and it cuts through cast iron pretty well.

share|improve this answer
    
Or carbide grit. Serious metal-cutting blade in any case. –  keshlam Jul 4 at 6:29
    
Tried the Diablo Diamond "Cast Iron Cutting" blade, and it barely scratched the surface after a 15min attempt. Disappointing, I may try to find a Torch blade to try. That Bosch has done awesome in the past, and I could swear I've cut worse before with it and the bosch brand metal blade. –  Chris W. Jul 8 at 15:31

That pipe is most likely cast so your bi-metal blades aren't going to cut it (forgive the pun). You need one of the Lenox Gold recip blades. There's few varieties but any of the Gold line should cut that pipe, or there's some specifically designed for cast although I believe those are more expensive. I've cut hardened steel concrete anchors with the diamond encrusted Lenox blades and it zips through them like butter.

share|improve this answer
    
I might just have to try and find one of the blades your recommend, I tried a Diablo Diamond grit "cast iron cutting" blade with no joy so far. –  Chris W. Jul 8 at 15:33
    
Yeah they're a little harder to come by. My local plumbing supply place carries Lenox because plumbers use them to deal with old cast and galvanized pipes. They're worth the search though, they make Diablo's look like a nail file. –  user23534 Jul 9 at 3:13
    
Hell at this stage in the game a nail file makes them look like a nail file lol. First and last time trying them for me, too bad home depot's apparently married to them since it's pretty much the only selection in the store nearest to me... –  Chris W. Jul 9 at 3:22

Your Answer

 
discard

By posting your answer, you agree to the privacy policy and terms of service.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.