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After installing a new bathroom sink, the drain tailpiece doesn't line up with the trap coming out of the wall. I've seen flexible accordion hoses for this, but I think that violates code (P3002.3.1). I live in California. My tailpiece is 1.25" (OD) without threads. The trap is 1.5" (ID) with male threads. What's the best way to do this?

By the way, I have a flexible accordion piece from the old sink, which fits on the trap, but it has male threads on top, so it connect to the tailpiece. So I don't understand how those flexible pieces are supposed to work anyway.

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Is the wall end of the trap glued right to the pipe in the wall? If the thing can be unscrewed they make drain pipe fittings that will screw to the wall fitting and permit a certain amount of telescoping of the horizontal piece coming out to the trap. –  Michael Karas Jun 8 at 14:32
    
Yes, the trap is glued to the pipe in the wall. –  Elliott B Jun 8 at 22:10
    
I would take the sink's tailpiece and the traps top piece and this photo to Home Depot or Lowes and ask someone there for help. –  getterdun Jun 10 at 3:47

4 Answers 4

If the p-trap will not swing enough to align with the tail piece, you will need to provide an offset on the vertical.

I would do this by changing the p-trap to a hub connection type (should be able to reuse the existing union 90) and then hard pipe up from the p-trap, installing two 45 elbows on the vertical and then connecting to the tail piece with a hub x slip joint adapter.

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I had the exact same problem under my bathroom sink. Here's a picture of how I resolved it. The first elbow off the sink is 1.5" because I couldn't find a 1.25" female-to-female elbow in my local Home Depot. I used a 1.25" sized compression washer in the larger elbow to get the smaller 1.25" elbow to fit snugly. Works great! You should be able to do the same kind of thing by using the more-available 1.5" pieces whenever you have to and mating them with the smaller 1.25" pieces you may have to use with 1.25"-sized compression washer.

enter image description here

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Two complementary L or angled connections (to move the drain laterally), plus loosening and rotating the trap around its connection to the pipe coming out of the wall... plus shortening the drain tailpiece and adding a bit of straight pipe, if necessary... ought to be able to complete the connection. Two overlapping circles will have two positions where they cross each other; at least one of them won't be blocked by the wall pipe.

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You cut the piece out by the wall, as far from the wall as you can. You need a female/female connection then a straight piece, then a 90 down then your trap. The only piece to cut is the straight piece. You need to cut it so when you angle your trap it is directly under the tail. Then just extend tail down.

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